Car Starting Problems

Your car starter has nothing to do with cold weather starting so a factory standard starter would work just fine. However, solid fuel pressure and strong spark is the most important aspect in cold weather starting. Therefor, a high amperage battery will help a great deal.

From what you describe, I wonder if your alternator or battery are going bad. I think

I'd have them both checked at Auto Zone or Checker or the like. They'll probably check

them free.

I think it will be in the starter. When they start to wear out, heat causes them to quit functioning until the cool off for a few..... This is common in the Chrysler v-6. The smart key was an add-on option, but it still had a small chip in the key. If you have this option, there will be a small black or grey bump at the base of the metal part of the key.

i have no idea what your talking about but... suck on my left butt cheek!

It is your fuel injectors. My car had a lot if miles. About120.567 miles this man at auto zone told me to use that. But never asked how many miles I had in my car. Needless to say. My mechanic had to change my fuel tank dropped my gas tank which was shooting rust into my fuel injectors. They had to be changed. Good. Do your reading and DO NOT put it if your car has a lot if miles cause then next fuel injectors will be in danger. Hope this helps

alternator can produce the current to supply in the vehicle our vehicle needs D.C current but the alternator can produce A.C current the A.C currrent can convert into D. current by diodes ADVANTAGES OF ALTERNATOR: it is light weight it is compaq in olden days generator are used but it is a heavy weight and it can occupy more space so alternators re used

Starter solenoid defective. if you have replaced your siloniode and you still have the same problem just trun the key on ON then take a screwdriver and touch the two terminals togather quikly and it should work great after. Starter solenoid hooked up reversed or poor ground, low battery or corroded connections @ battery It has been my experience that a faulty solenoid or relay will only click once when you try to start the vehicle. A rapid clicking noise would indicate a low battery, poor ground, or corroded connections as stated above.

Hard starts or stalls in the morning usually indicate a problem with the fuel system, because a couple special things need to happen at start up in order to get the car up and running.

If your car is carbureted, meaning the air and fuel are mixed together in a carburetor and then this mixture is injected into the cylinders, it uses a choke. When cold, the choke keeps a butterfly valve in the carburetor shut, creating a fuel mixture with lots of fuel and a little air. Then as the car warms up the choke slowly opens, allowing more and more air into the fuel mixture. In order to start with a cold engine a car requires a rich fuel mixture with more fuel than normal running requires, so if there is a problem with your choke its usually noticed when your car stalls after first starting it in the morning.

If your car is carbureted, I would try pumping the gas pedal a once or twice before you start it the first time. This will both reset the choke if it failed to do it on its own, and add a little extra gas to the cylinders to aid the cold start.

If your car is fuel injected, pumping the gas pedal once before starting it may help, but then it may not. Fuel injected systems perform the same functions as a carberator, but they do it all electronically, and are much more expensive to fix because they are far more complex.

Hope this helps!

Slipping of the clutch and a peculiar smell are the first signs of a clutch that is worn out.

Yes but some cars have a button under the clutch so you may have to press it...put it in neutral and try to start the car to find out ;)

This is an easy repair. You will need only a basic socket wrench set. Don't forget to disconnect the battery (negative terminal) before you start or you risk causing a short circuit that could injure you or damage the vehicle.

take the starter back to where you bought it and have them test it in front of you. Not all new starters are really new. Most are rebuilt ones and don't always work. Good part stores have a machine that tests starters, Others can hook up to a car battery and bench test them. If they don't know how to do that then get your money back and go to a different store, cause the person selling you the parts don't know enough! You need a voltmeter to be sure the battery voltage is getting to the starter and the ground wire is not loose on the engine.

when you turn your key and you only hear humming noise, the problem will most likely be that the starter is not engaging the fly wheel, its turning but is not sliding forward to do its job. have the starter check.

sound like you have a 4.3 vortec with a bad spider. it is multiported so inside the plentum of the intake, there is your spider, they go bad and fill up your intake with fuel, then dump it down the valley of the engine.

Sit back, let me tell you an anecdotal story.

Some years ago, I was working as a truck driver/equipment operator/floor hand in the Louisiana oilfields. As I'm coming into work one day, I happen across a freight hauler who had his batteries die on him, and needed a jump start in order to get rolling again. So, I put my pickup truck next to his, and proceeded to pull out a set of jumper cables. Of course, he thought I was crazy, and that I'd never be able to jump start his truck with my pickup.

Well, lo and behold, I managed to do it just fine. And you're about to see how.

Don't go to the batteries - dead/weak batteries take a lot of energy to charge up, and they put up a lot of resistance. This creates heat, and heat will melt your jumper cables, unless you have some extremely thick, industrial grade ones which were made specifically for that sort of thing.

On some N. American truck models, there are posts located on the vehicle specifically for jump starting or charging the vehicle - I'd imagine this would be true for Euro models, but can't say with any certainty.

If the truck being jumped does have them, then you need to see where the positive cable goes to - if it ties in to the batteries, forget about it, unless you want to sit for some time to let it charge.

Put the positive cable directly to the starter. Bypass the batteries completely.

As for your negative cable, you want to be careful about that. People typically ground it to the frame.. if the vehicle has chassis mounted electronics, you do not want to do this. If it has the aforementioned posts, ground it on the ones for the negative cable. If it doesn't, I would err on the side of caution, drive a metal stake into the ground, and use that for ground.

Reset the fuel shut off switch.

If your car is equipped with rain sensing wipers and the wiper switch is in position I, the wiper will run once at tutrning on the ignition to indicate that the wipers are in rain sensing mode. this is what the documentation for my 2002 E320 says!. Thanks, Vic

There is a magnetic switch in the steering lock/ key switch. If it is weak it will do that. If it dose leave the key on for 10 min. The light will quit blinking, turn key off and start motor. This is a dealer fix. Parts are up ward of $700. I just wait the 10 and go on my way

You have a loose electrical connection.

Yes, a loose battery cable will prevent the alternator from charging the battery. The drain on the battery is not caused by the engine not running unless an accessory is left on. Most likely, the drain is caused by accessories (radio, lights, etc) while the engine is running due to the battery not receiving its charge from the alternator and then not having enough charge left to start the engine.

Its obviously not getting fuel to the throttle body, this is most likely the fuel pump, but you should start by replaceing the fuel filter becase of the low cost.

if you just put a starter on you shouldn't have any problems cause i just had the same thing happen to me i thought it was my battery so i brought a new one and it still would not start so then i had a new starter put on and i have no more problems except i have to get the codes for my radio to start back to working and the dealership want at least 50 dollars and up i hope this answer your question

Could be the starter relay

if fan is belt driven you have a worn fan clutch check where shaft enters clutch if there is any leaks or clumps of road grime sticking to fan clutch its lost its internal oil supply causing slippage some clutches will slip when engine is cold and automatically spin faster as temp rises this is called a thermostatically controlled fan clutch also w/engine off grab fan firmly and check for any play between blade and shaft replace as needed

Looking at a fuse may not necessarily tells, if it is bad. There are many different types of fuses. Some you can see through and some you cannot see through physically. The ones you are able to see through are most times made of a GLASS STRUCTURE, which enable you to actually take a close look on the inside of that glass casing to see if there is a break in its connection link.This link or Bi-metal ( the links are called BI_METAL, FUSE ELEMENT, FUSE WIRE etc...) is act as a protection in the event there is a fault or problem in its circuit, to break easily. If your fuse is one that you cannot see through, then you must use an electrical meter to detect whether it's good or bad. Preferably measure fuse when it is taken out of its circuit.

Not unless it is a carburated engine.