Car Starting Problems

If the key will not turn the ignition on a Lincoln Town car, the key may have been damaged and might need to be re-coded. The ignition could also be damaged or locked because of an incorrect key.

I would check the starter solenoid before I investigated the starter - it's likely the cause. Have someone try starting the car hot while you measure the voltage between the starter side of the solenoid and negative - you should get battery voltage. If not, the problem is the solenoid (or somewhere before it, electrically).

In all of my years working on automobiles I have never heard of an "alternator switch". Not too sure what that would be or how it would affect the engine running unless perhaps you battery is too discharged to run the engine.

Two things are required for an engine to be able to start and run. Those are gasoline and spark. So the first thing to do is find out if you still have spark and gas when the engine is not starting. To do that check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve, it should be about 45 lbs not running, it will drop some when the engine is running. If there is not enough ongoing pressure the gasoline will not be able to pass through the fuel injectors.

If you have fuel pressure then check the spark plugs for spark at the plugs. I do that with and inductive timing light.

If it has air bags, don't try. If it has a security chip on the keyswitch, don't try. If it doesn't have either, remove the steering wheel and expose the turn signal switch. You should be able to see one or more screws that hold the switch assembly in place. Remove the screws, pull the switch and take it with you to an auto parts retailer. You should be able to get a new keyswitch assembly there. Note that it's only the lock mechanism. You aren't really doing anything to the electrical.

Ah, you have made one of the most common and easiest mistakes to make in automotive maintenance. Because the 'battery voltage' idiot light came on, you assumed that the battery was bad. Did you have an automotive electrical specialist test the electrical system on your car? Did you have the battery tested at a battery shop? Did you know that there are 3 primary parts to an automotive electrical system, and anyone of them can be responsible for the system operating below required voltage levels? Most modern automobiles generate electricity with a device called an alternator, which is driven by a belt from the crankshaft. The alternator generates Direct Current, at voltages up to 20 volts, in some cases. To keep the alternator from frying the battery, a Voltage Regulator is used to control the output of the alternator. This insures that the battery is only charged with a current of 18 volts, or less. Most modern alterators have the voltage regulator inside, but on older cars, the voltage regulator is mounted on the fender or the firewall, somewhere in the engine compartment. So, the alternator generates the electricity used to charge the battery, but the voltage regulator controls the output of the alternator. If the alternator is going bad, it may not be generating enough voltage to charge the battery. The battery is usually a 12 volt battery, and must see more than 12 volts to charge. Or, the alternator output might be reduced to an unusable level by the voltage regulator. Before you replace the entire electrical system, take the car to an automotive electrical specialist for testing. They can determine exactly which component is not working, and repair it. (Note: If the voltage regulator is bad, this DOES NOT mean that the entire alternator must be replaced! In almost all cases, the voltage regulator can be replaced by disassembling the alternator. If the specialist insists that the alternator must be replaced, I would recommend getting a second opinion, even though testing is often not free. Voltage regulators are fairly cheap, and can be replaced by a competent technician without too much difficulty. Alternators are expensive.)

If you can jump start the car then the battery is not fine. Remove the battery cables and thoroughly clean them. If it still will not start check the voltage at the battery with the engine off. You should get 12.6 volts if the battery is fully charged. 12.4 it is 75%, 12.2 it is 50%, and 12.0 it is 25% charged. I would bet your battery is defective.

Found answer here www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=480791 It covers the Vauxhall Astra as well which has the same Mechanism as the Zafira Hope this helps

Closely examine the entire length of the fuel line to see if there are ANY pinhole fuel leaks. Even the slightest amount of fuel seepage will result in a vacuum leak and that would cause the fuel line to suck air when the vehicle is facing uphill. If it's a small leak the action of the fuel pump could eventually overcome the leak, driving any trapped air out.

speed

If it is very far out of time it will not start

The 1998 Honda Accord main relay switch will cost approximately $125 to replace. You can save $75 by replacing the switch yourself.

The choke on the carberator is stuck open so it allows too much air for the amount of fuel needed to start the car. If you look in the top of the carb, there is a flap that is probably stuck straight up and down. In cold weather, that flap is supposed to be sideways and closing off the opening of the carb.

Expanding on the above answer, while warming up, this choke flap is controlled by an electrically heated coil (automatic choke), this sits on the side of carb and is about 2" in circumference. It has two screws holding the face of the thing in position. When loosened, the face can be rotated to adjust the coil inside/level of choke, there are marks to show the normal position as a reference.

This will get the engine started in the cold, but is probably compensating for some other problem, and may make engine run rich once warm.

Steve

If you have not replace the spark plugs and plug wires then you may need to replace them. Your check engine light should be on if that is the problem. You may also have a vacuum leak so check all vacuum hoses.

if you are carbureted you probably need a rebuildcarburetor kit,unless your fuel pump is not putting out enough voltage to push fuel. Good Luck...

Have the alternator checked.

Could be starter solenoid - Follow + battery cable should connect to solenoid

Ignition swtich?? Wiring ok from battery? Check all the grounds to engine and chassis... peek at a manual for a diagram// See if your local library has a professional shop manual to look at for free... dave

Most likely the ignition/key switch. Very common problem with ION.

Jim

The battery light can be on for several reasons. A bad alternator is the top cause in my experience. Have the charging system tested and see what is going on.

When you try to start engine is there any noise,such as clicking from area of starter?If you can hear a clicking , this usually indicates poor connections.To trouble shoot starter problem, the first thing i would do is determine if it is starter or solenoid.To do this ,you need a remote starter switch,connected to starter solenoid.Solenoid is located either on the starter,or on firewall in engine bay,depending on what vehicle you have. if you dont have a remote switch, you can short the solenoid terminals with a screw driver.When shorting, if the solenoid is good you will hear clicking.If you dont hear anything , replace the solenoid.If you hear clicking and starter doesnt work, pull the starter out and replace .

soudns like it is not getting enough fuel, try replacing the fuel filter, if that does not work check the fuel pump

there is a possibility that it may be a vaccum leak aswell. check all you lines.

This normally means that your battery is dead, but could also be related to a faulty starter motor. Here is a quick way to narrow it down...
1. turn on all your lights, including the dome (interior) light.
2. Insert key and proceed to start vehicle.
If all the lights immediately go very dim or completely out when you engage the ignition that means its time to check your starter motor, because something in it is wrong, and its drawing out all the juice from the battery.
(Auto-Zone does free starter and gen. and battery testing).
If the lights stay on or barely dim, and you hear a clicking noise, then its time to replace or recharge your battery. Also make sure to check your positive and neg. cables for excessive corrision or faulty connections because that won't help matters any.

Hoped this helped,
Good Luck,
Mrkhh.

Ok, I have an active dealer code figured out. You're going to need to take a pen and paper with you out to the car.

1) Go out to your car, and put the key to the 'on' position (not run). When the radio turns on, press and hold #2 and #3. After about ten seconds, three numbers will appear on the screen. Take your time and write these down.

2) After you have the first three numbers, press and release the AM/FM button. Three more numbers will appear on the screen. Write these down.

3) With your new-found 6-digit code, go inside and call 1-800-537-5140. It's just an electronic answering machine. Once the guy finishes talking, press 202108, followed by the *Asterisk* button (not pound).

4) He'll then tell you to enter in your 4- or 6-digit code, followed by the star/asterisk again. So, type in the numbers you got out of your radio, and hit star/asterisk.

5) He'll then tell you your 4-digit unlock code. Write it down.

Most likely the ticking you are hearing is that from your solonoid. This is generally related with insufficient power from the battery.

it is under the black plastic plenum ,and attached to rear of fuel injector spider...remove elecrtical sensor wires....disconnect 2 metal fuel lines remove plenum...fuel pressure regulator is a small round item on rear of spider,with a hose connection pointing up, and no hose attached....inside there is a screeen that will get clogged by trash,and cut down fuel volume...but not necessarily pressure...easy to take apart to clean...

The usual, poor performance, misfiring, stalling general noticeable difference. First rule out that you have no problems with the engine or running electrics. have blamed fuel(petrol) in the past only to find I had overlooked a problem caused by an airleak on the inlet manifold.

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