Check Engine Light

I have tried everything, but I am coming to the conclusion that I have a bad pcv letting in too much air. The concensus of how to fix it seems to be to clean the MAF with some electical cleaner or brake cleaner. Basically, you are getting too much air into the throttle body after the MAF or a dirty MAF. both banks running lean indicates a vacuum leak....i had a similar problem with a customers vehicle and i found a vacuum leak at the rear of the intake manifold.....it was a cracked hose. _ caprice nut

It usually means that the vehicle has sensed a slipping wheel and has cut a little power to stop the slipping.

If the vehicle is running fine and the light is on steady (not blinking) it could be something as simple as the gas cap was not closed all the way or needs to be replaced. Drive it to KIA or authorized repair shop and have them check it out. A Steady light usually means it is a minor problem. IF the light is blinking or the car is running rough you may need new spark plugs and/or wires. If this is the case, do not drive the car more than you have to until you get it checked out as you could damage the car. If you are the original owner, the 100,000 mile warranty covers only the engine and tranny at 87000 miles, it is no longer bumper to bumper. If you are not the original owner, call your local KIA dealer and ask them if the car is still under warranty. My 1998 and my 2001 KIAa both have had warranty work with no real hassles. I do not know how to reset the light if you fix the car yourself though. Catalytic converter is probably going bad. Kia's are known to go bad around that mileage.

It's behind the drivers side headlight.

Remove the right/drivers side headlamp. There are two white clips holding the headlight assembly in. Once removed you need to unplug the headlamp connectors. Now the headlight is out of the way.

For ease it's a good idea to start the car and turn the wheel all the way to the left and then turn the car off. This will allow you to get to the 4 screws and one 6 MM bolt that hold the front part of the plastic cover/shroud under the fender. Remove two screws directly underneath the bumper outter edge and the two ascending from the front going up. The 6mm bolt is in the inner portion of the fender shroud. Now you can pull the plastic cover out a little ways to have full access to the air injection pump.

It can be removed by unbolting the 3 10mm bolts and then removing the lower hose facing the front of the car as it has no clamp on it.

The connector was a little hard for me to figure out. I removed the light gray insert first as it looked like it was a lock of some sorts. Once that was removed I was able to press the connector to remove the clamp and pull the electrial connector off.

The pump should be almost free. The other clamp with the hose I was able to pull off with the clamp still on it. You need a special tool as it is one of those crimped clamps. I was able to force it back on upon installation. It is probably a good idea to remove the clamp and get a regular hose clamp for what it's worth.

I tried taking the pump apart and clean it to get it to come to life. I think once it's dead it's dead. The design doesn't seem right to be made in two separate pieces. I'm not sure of the logic of this but it would appear to be a better idea to have a completely sealed unit as dirt and water abound in the pump.

the on board computer has found an error with the vehicle. it may need a simple tune up or more try unplugging the battery for ten minutes. that should clear the code then if it comes back on take it to a Volvo dealer or someone with a code reader for that vehicle.

The service engine light has to be reset with a scanner. Disconnecting the battery will not work. The light will come back on unless you make the necessary repairs.

adverb

not likely. you will more than likely have a coolant leak in the car that ends up with coolant on the passenger floor. pressure test the system and look a for leak. the only way the check engine light would come on is if it had a coolant pressure sensor. most cars don't, only sweet expensive rides

It sounds like the crank position sensor has failed.

Disconnect the negative battery cable for five minutes. But, unless you repair the problem that set the light in the first place it will just come back on.

The easiest way is to simply unbolt the battery cable for a couple of minutes. However, if you haven't fixed the problem that set the check engine light it will simply come back on again.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

The bulb is blown or someone has removed it.

Trouble code P1621 means: PCM Memory Performance

turn off engine, and start again

remove the efi fuse for 1 minute if the light comes back on you have a problem

No an emissions test will not affect the check engine light.

However an emissions test cannot be performed while the check engine light is on, you will have to repair whatever is wrong with the vehicle before it can be done.

Simply resetting it wont work either as the system will have to complete several (7 or 8) emissions readiness tests before it can be done and whatever is wrong will most likely reappear by then.

It is most likely an emissions issue and the computer on the truck has detected information from one of the sensors on the engine that something is not within its normal working range. A small amount of contamination on a sensor or a small vacuum leak somewhere can set the CEL (among many other things). Auto Zone will hook to your computer with a code scanner for FREE and tell you what trouble the computer has found. They can also give you a print-out of the results to take with you on their receipt paper. It will probably not be anything too serious. Don't take their recommendation for repair as gospel, they are COUNTER HELP...not mechanics. Post back on here or in a tech forum for more help after you have the number of the code(s).

The only proper way is with a scan tool.

The light should stay on whenever the key is on and the engine is off.

First step is to have it checked for trouble codes. If the check engine light is on, the pcm has detected a fault and set a code.

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

To reset the service CCR light on a 1991 Eldorado, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Reconnect it and start the car.

I HAVE THIS SAME PROBLEM AS WE SPEAK. ONE THING U CAN DO REAL CHEAP AND MIGHT HELP IS CHECK YOUR MAF= MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR TO MAKE SURE THE HEATER WIRE IS NOT BROKEN AND CLEAN IT WITH MAF SENSOR CLEANER OR ELECTRIAL CLEANER. CAN GET A CAN FOR LIKE $6.00 MAKE SURE U SPRAY THE HECK OUT OF IT. HOPE THIS HELPS MAN If you reset the light and it came back on it is because the O2 sensor was not the problem. The computer detected a problem with the emissions system, and threw up a fault code. That code indicated that the O2 sensor was being effected by the problem. The code does not mean that the O2 sensor is bad. It just means that it is being effected. It can be many things, that is why it takes skill to diagnose a problem correctly and not just throw parts at it. Take it to a pro before you waste more money on parts you don't need. Now if you didn't reset the light, do so, and see where you stand.