Check Engine Light

that's egrc solenoid valve, you can go and get it check at any parts store or buy a obdII code reader and erase it if the problem persist replace the egrc solenoid, and have the code erased again it should fix the problem, althougth i had a problem like that and it wasn't the egrc, was the egr valve since goes connected to the egrc can give you that problem chek if you have a code for egr, if it shows the code i will suggest to replace the egr it's cheaper

The engine service light is on because there is a problem. The problem has to be fixed before the light can be reset. Your local auto parts store can plug a scanning device into your car and read the trouble code(s). They won't charge you for this service if you purchase the parts needed to repair the car from them.

Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

The check engine light is on because of an emission control problem. In order to shut it off you have to have it hooked up to an OBDII code reader. The code reader will give you a code as to why it is on and can shut it off for you.

Hey Amy==It depends on the make, and which engine you have. I would check the bolts on the a/c compressor, and the belt for correct tension and if it is a serpentine belt check it for cracks and brittelness. Goodluck. Joe

Here's a copy of the invoice, I can't make sense of what's written about the codes.

KOEO (Key On Engine Off) 232, Primary coil circuit failure. 341, Octane jumper installed. This is to let you know Octane booster was installed.

KOER (Key On Engine Running) 411 and 412, Idle speed system not controlling idle speed correctly.

You may need to replace your idle air control it is near the throttle bottle maybe on the right side kind of under the throttle body it will have a wire that you need to disconect if you want to see a picture go to autozone. com and look it up then look for it where it said its an 86 so it may be worn take itvout clean it off it will be black just wipe it clean but don't spaybitvwithcwster because itvis an electric part hints the wire if that isn't it look at the mass airflow sensor a new one runs about $215.00 good luck

Unplug your battery and turn and hold the ignition switch to start. Hold it for about 30 seconds or so. Once you plug your battery back on, your truck will be hard to start until the computer re-programs.

If you do not repair the malfunction that caused the code, the check engine light will come back on.

They pertain to different problems the engine might be having, To check them read them as flash flash pause flash flash flash....that would be code 23 Check what they mean at the following website

http://www.troublecodes.net/suzuki/

You need to either possess a code reader and plug it into the port under the dash on the drivers side, or take it to the dealer who will read it for a fee, or a parts store who will read it for free. Then using that information you can cross the numerical code to a fault reason and figure out what needs to be repaired from there.

On many cars it was built into the headlight switch, which was a knob on the dashboard, you pull it outward to turn the headlights on, you twist it clockwise to make the dash lights brighter, counterclockwise to dim them.

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist.

The following worked on my 2000 Neon: After replacing what the diagnostic test said was bad, I disconnected one of the battery cables for approximately 30 minutes. I then made contact or touched the battery terminal with the cable battery clamp three (3) times and then connected the cable to the battery. It reset the computer.

first, check behind each of the tires to make sure the ABS wire is connected to the hub assembly (a wire comes from the engine and plugs into a clip on the hub). if that doesnt work see a mechanic. is the "anti-lock" light on as well? i have this problem. one of my ABS wires lost the clip so i need to get one from the junk yard. Is the car sputtering? it can also be problem with engine. Mine would come on when I had a problem with my injector.

P1416 is your O2 censors.

ANSWER:

P1416 refers to a problem in the exhaust system which is, unfortunately, very difficult to track down. Depending on who you talk to about it, you can do nothing and never have a problem or you can do nothing and it can ultimately lead to a problem with the catalytic converter. Damned if you do and damned if you don't.

Premature wear of an engine can be caused by several factors, including insufficient lubrication, improper maintenance, and the use of low-quality oil or fuel. Overheating due to cooling system failures or excessive engine load can also accelerate wear. Additionally, contamination from dirt, debris, or water can lead to increased friction and damage to engine components. Regular maintenance and using the right fluids are essential to mitigate these issues.

On a computer controlled car, the computer needs the battery to for voltage regulation. With the battery unhooked, it may shut off. That is not an indication of an actual problem. The proper way to check the alternator is with a voltmeter.

If you have the owner's manual don't forget to look in there - it is explained in there. I'm not entirely certain about the '04 model year, but mine was the model just preceding it. On my CR-V - located in the clear plastic panel that covers the instrument cluster - at the center bottom - just to the right of the odometer there is a small black plastic slot through the clear plastic. On mine - you insert the ignition key into that slot and lightly push it straight in (without turning) it contacts a push-switch that resets the on-board computer for another 7,500 miles when the light will againt switch on to remind you to service the engine.

Easiest way to "Reset" the Check Engine Light. Use an OBD2 reader. You can purchase one yourself($100.00 or so) or you can just go to a car parts store ex: Auto Zone, O' Rileys Auto Parts, Napa, etc. They will assist you or let you use the OBD2 reader yourself. Hook up the OBD2 reader to the designated hookup, make sure your car is not running. Turn the key to ignition, but DO NOT start. Power the OBD2 reader ON and the OBD2 reader should automatically diagnos your problem, tell you why the Check Engine Light is on and also you have the option of "Resetting" or to "Erase" the check engine light code. CODE, meaning, your car sends a certain code for certain problems and the OBD2 reader, reads that code and tells you what part(s) need to be replaced or fixed. Hope this was helpful-Danny(15yr Mechanic)

See the below link:

Check all connectors for moisture and dry them out.

The code P1400 reads "DPFE Sensor Voltage Low" (Ford, Mazda). Often it's caused by a bad DPFE sensor or clogged EGR passages. DPFE stands for (Differential Pressure Feedback EGRI) I would clean the EGR valve which cost nothing. If that does not cure the problem, you may need to replace the DPFE sensor, which does cost, and it may not fix the problem. If you want to be sure you replace the correct part, then visit your local Ford dealer.

dpfe stands for delta pressure not differential.

hold off and warm intill gas gage lightes up. the codes will flash out of the gas gage. press off to exit.

If this occurs, then it means that there is a problem with you engine. A mechanic can figure out how your engine should be fixed.

You can reset an airbag light that is blinking by connecting an ODBII code reader. The warning can then be removed which will cause the light to go out until another error is detected.

egr solenoid is the most common problem. The EGR Solenoid has a vacuum hose at the top running from the EGR Valve and one vacuum hose that connects to the upper intake manifold. The solenoid is brown in color. Try replacing all of the vacuum hoses before anything first for only 3.00 this could fix your problem as well. (you have a vacuum diagram on your hood)