Chevy 305

in PA the licenced driver must be 21 or older

A 1977 caprice was using the same 267cid engine as the impala at the time, wikipedia says it had around 170hp.

as much as the union wants it to be

It is very difficult and time consuming for a back yard mechanic. I have done it before and I didn't think I would ever finish. I'll put it this way, if you're going to try this yourself you'll need every tool that you've got and then some. 2 head gaskets, head studs, valve seals, timing belt along with tentionors and all pulleys associated with the timing and you'll probably want to get some 3rd gen lash adjusters will get you started. You'll need timing tools and also a tool that is used to compressed the valve springs to get the keepers out. You can do a search on all of this. It's very extensive you can't do this on a weekend.

depending on year and setup, carbuerated, fuel injected, multipoint fuel injection, the range is between 170hp and 230hp.

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Go for it

The 305 times just like any other Chevy V8. If it isn't pointing to number one on top dead center it is out of time and your power will just fade away Same on most engines.

yes

No 305 heads bolt up different then 350 heads

If they are 305 vortec they will bolt up. However they do not have the same flow. The 305 vortec head has smaller runners, smaller valves and does not have the same heart shape combustion chamber.

Now if you meant the older 305 heads onto a 350 vortce then no they will not. The vortec uses raised runners and the ports will not match. On top of it all the 5.7 vortec has more flow then any other production head. Placing a 305 head in its place would be going backwards.

An engine does not go off-timing all by itself. If the timing chain fails, the engine would usually be too far off to run. If someone forgot to tighten the distributor hold down, the distributor would revolve counterclockwise until it got to a point where the engine would be very low on power.

Typically the OEM engine oil viscosity.

Nissan's Hydraulic lifters for the SR20DE and SR20DET are usually recommended to be placed in 'engine oil' when the engine is undergoing rebuild, which in this case would be 7.5W30 (from factory) or approximately 10W40 depending on the viscosity you can find at your local store.

Heads off a 454 engine will not fit a 305 engine A 454 is a big block and a 305 is a small block. Even if they did fit it would probably run poorly due to low compression because the combustion chambers on the the 454 heads are larger than the ones on the 305 heads

Basically what I did was have a dual exhaust system made at my local muffler shop using 2.25 inch pipe with H pipe and two chambered (Flowmaster) mufflers, all for $260 and it bolts to the cats just like the stock Y did. I also added the K&N 5.7L FIPK cold air kit and a Granatelli 5.7L cold air tuned MAF sensor. It will dust a stock 5.7 V8 Caprice(not Impala SS). I also bought an extra K&N filter for the FIPK kit so you don't have to wait until you wash, dry and re-oil to drive it. Clean the dirty one and swap them out as needed. It turned mine into a little screamer! You can also add the LT4 Corvette knock module and sensor and have the PCM reprogrammed by PCMforless.com for a little added extra!

Try cleaning them.

4.10:1 ratio really? hmm... cuz i just opened up my case and my 96 has 3.08. your best bet is going to be to look at the stamp on the ring if you suspect that its the stock rearend. even after that youre still going to want to count the ring and pinion teeth after just to double check. some people use parts with other parts to get the ratios they want. i am currently putting a spool and 4.10 gears in mine

I have an 82' impala wagon and the factory 305 4bbl that is in it is rated at 145hp.

This site can help you. http://www.mortec.com/

Read the instructions that come with the new timing chain and gears. Generally, you would install the gears so that when the engine is #1 TDC the timing mark on the big gear is straight down and the timing mark on the smaller gear is straight up. There is an exception in that some model years have both timing marks in the 12 o'clock position.

supercharge it.

There are a lot of variables involved that haven't been explained. However, I'd guess around 300 HP. I'll tell you straight up that you've got way too much carb for that engine. You'll get a lot better throttle response and smoother operation if you downsize to a 650 cfm. For a mild application that is street driven try and stick with a vacuum secondary instead of a double pumper.

The bore and stroke is---3.740 bore and 3.480 stroke. STOCK 305

maybe check for a worn CAM LOB.

some yes...but it depends on whats happening. if its your egr, or pcv, vacuum break...(in other words, something is stuck) best bet is to take about $40 or so to the parts store, get 1 new egr, 1 new pcv, etc... and about 10ft of 1/4 vcuum line (the employee should know how to cut that). IF U WANT... u could start by taking a pocket knife to your vacuum line(s) where they are connected (only if they're cracked/broke, rotted) make a clean cut and slide back on to see if that cures a problem u might be having...

but if your looking to just get rid of vacuum lines...--> try unplugging 1 at a time with the motor idling. BUT BEWARE!!!! this could screw up your idle, fuel mix, possibly start causing overheating, etc. I know they suck, but they're pretty well needed.