Chevy 305

look in a chiltons repair manual from the library for your year car.

No...The Mounting Holes Are 3/4 Of A Inch Off

Check your flame trap first for a clogged trap.

From 1978-1987

NO

rev the engine to about 2500 rpm's and turn the distributor until you find that sweet spot.

5800 rpm's

i'd say about 200..idk where ppl get 170 from off a stock 305 fuel injected..dont under estimate the 305 & to be honest 305's are more durable & last a bit longer than 350's..350's barely have an advantage on 350's on hp & torque but never the less their both chevy's horay lol!

yes, HEI distributor

TBI stands for Throttle body injection. This is an early type of fuel injection used in the late 80's. It's basically a carburetor

the answer is quite easy actually it falls into 3 catergories.timing is usually the first and best place to start,get a timing light and see where your timing is set,if it is outta time then correct it.secondly start by making sure your carbeurator is clean and operating the way it should be.is it delivering to much fuel or not enough make sure your fuel and air adjustments are correct especially on aftermarket carbs.and last but not least your camshaft,if it is an aftermarket cam and was installed professionally some cams are supposed to have a rough idle for instance.a crane cams energizer camshaft 272h thru 302h has a rough idle im using the 274h and atwith 274 degrees adv.duration and a gross lift of .450 degrees with an r.p.m range of about 1800-to 5800 i have a rough idle this is to be expected even if your an at home mechanic you should read about the cam you are using does it have smooth,good or rough idle they all work very efficently depending on your performance needs...

yes, the engine is a newer engine if it has the center bolt valve covers, or maybe just the newer heads

58cc

There is a foul odor that comes from the catalytic converter, maybe that's it

There's a possibility that some sort of mold has grown in the plenum and/or ducting for the heater system. I would recommend you take it to a shop that can determine if this is the case, and can clean and disinfect the system if needed. home remedies for this sort of thing seldom work.

45 LBS. at 2000 RPMs. At an idle it should have at least 15 LBS. or more.

18436572 to locate #1 see the square where the wires plug in (drivers side) from that square come clockwise to you 2 pegs this is #1

Use A 5-speed trans from a 4.3 S-10 It will bolt right up You will need the pressure plate and clutch disk from a 4.3 also

i have that trans your looking for sell it for 400 dollars with the t case call me 419-508-7117 thanks kyle

Check your PCV valve, EGR valve, ect. A motor needs ventilation, and for some reason yours is not getting any. PCV valve, stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. If plugged, that would certainly cause it to puke oil out, some where, anyway. PCV goes into one of you valve covers, and runs a hose to the back of the intake manifold, probably behind the carb.........Chuck.

Noises have to be heard to be correctly diagnoised but just guessing, I would say it is a vacuum leak at either the throtle body or intake manifold gasket. Get some carb cleaner and CAREFULLY spray the intake and throtle body to find it.

Timing is 4 degrees before top dead center with the distributor hose disconnected and plugged. The warm idle speed is 500 RPM.

Seal gone! Remove driveshaft pull seal out, check shaft for damage/wear. Refit new seal and rebuild

counter clockwise

That would require you to take the engine apart and inspect all the engine bearings to know for sure. It would be easy to notice a spun bearing.

remove motor mount. jack up engine by the harmonic balancer...be careful. install blocks of wood in between frame and engine. then remove and replace freeze plug

dry.

Installing the new plug is much easier if you get one of those rubber ones at the auto parts store. They'll know what you need.