Chevy Cavalier Z24

I'm pretty sure the brake line is 3/16" and the fuel line is 1/4". I'm doing a complete brake line replacement on my 01 Z24 right now.

www.crytchfield .com should have the specs...my 200 takes 5x8's both rear and front

You can't. I have a 99 PA with the same tensioner assembly. After working on something other than that one day, I took the belt off and the pulley nut just kept turning, thus making the tensioner useless. After I got the new part, I couldn't believe the engineers designed this setup of having coolant go through the thing. Didn't make sense and I was sure it would leak after I installed it. But to my surprise, the o-rings do hold the coolant when installed right. It's not real hard to change it, just gonna pay a little for the part. Don't forget coolant.

Alternate answer: The above assembly must not be the same. The tensioner bolt holding the bearing/pulley on for the 1998 Bonneville has left-hand threads. Turn counter-clock-wise to loosen the serpentine belt, clockwise to remove the pulley. Note, I had to use something in the range of 80-100 ft/lbs to get mine off. $12 part, 15 minutes to replace, once you know it's left-hand-threaded...a detail my factory manual didn't regard as worth mentioning!

== == Look under your dash by your pedals you will see the main wiring harness coming throught your firewall you can put your wires through there or drill a hole and put them through

The main effect you will notice the car stalls and goes dead. The computer shuts down the fuel injectors. If you have problems with the theft system and "NORMAL" procedures dont reset the theft system, check the plug on the wire harness under the battery and there are a couple of "ground wires" under there ,too.

It dont have one.It has a air/oil seperator on the block,underneeth the intake manifold. No maintenance required.

The oil capacity for the 2.2L engine is specified as 4.0 qts.

i had a ford car that did that and it was the alternater

My horn unit was rusty and had to be replaced.

Front speakers are 4.5", rear package tray speakers measure 7" (good luck finding direct replacements)

the library should have a shop manual for this vehicle :)

You must drop the gas tank

I have an 1998 cavalier and I found my relays on the drivers side under the hood above the wheel well. It will have a cover on the box containing all your relays ie. ABS, HVAC, Headlights, ect, I . Oh if you can send me a copy of your radio schematic, if possible? thanks Dave

No you don't. But you might want to replace the lower bushing also since you will be half way their. Also it is easier because you have to grind off the rivets to get the ball joint off the control arm. Most garages replace the control arm because labor rates compared to the cost of a new control is less expensive for the garage and customer. Also the liablity of the new ball joint has to be bolted on and not riveted as factory unit.

There are several possible culprits, the most likely is the switch assembly in the driver's side door panel. This assembly contains more than switches, though; it also has a printed circuit board that can go bad. The entire assembly, switches and all must be replaced if the circuit board is bad. When mine failed, the driver's side window was entirely inoperative, rather than intermittent, as yours is. I obtained a used replacement switch assembly on E-Bay and that solved the problem. The removal and replacement of the assembly requires that the interior door panel be removed. I ruled out the possibility of a bad electric motor by unplugging it from the switch assembly and applying 12 volts DC (from the battery) directly to the motor plug. The motor puts the window up or down depending on the polarity of the applied voltage. I determined that the switch assembly was bad by measuring the voltage coming into the motor from the switch assembly when the "up" and "down" buttons were pushed. There was no power coming into the motor when the buttons were pushed. Other possibilities include a corroded plug or socket or a break in the wiring where it comes through the frame of the car into the door. You might try opening the door and flexing that wiring while pressing the "up" and "down" buttons. If the window moves at all while you are doing this, the wiring is bad. Good luck. Michael Wilhelm Washington, DC I'm having the same problem, intermitant operation. I first thought it was motor overheat, because I could wait a few minutes and it would operate again, and It seems to stsrt this in cold weather, when I'm running the car heat. Well one day because I had to open my door when it wasn't working, when I closed the door fairly hard (it had me a little irritated!) a the window went down. A little late for my purposes, and I've found out the door shutting doesn't need to rock the car. It may still be a heating problem on the circuit board, but not in the electronic componenets. I suspect a cold solder joint, and plan to look at it again this weekend. I'll let you know.

With your limited information such as year of 348 and carb. used, your question makes about as much sense as asking how much water is in a pool..... Between 250 and 350 gross advertised horsepower, depending on camshaft or whether there was a single or tri-power carburetor intake system. The solid-lifter tri-power "350 horsepower" engine came out in limited numbers during the final year of the 348's run in the 1961 Chevrolets. Since gross horsepower was always a rather overly optimistic estimate of the cars' actual power, it's likely that the actual peak horsepower of the 348 would be little more than 75 percent of the stated values.

On the 2.4L engine,Remove the belt,remove the Altenator,take out the 1 bolt holding it to the block. take off the 2 bolts holding the top of the a/c compressor to the tentioner.Lift and wiggle it strait up. "poof" It's off.

It should be under the hood in front of the radiator. Front right side. Just one screw holding it to the frame.

replace the seel and checl ur roof to make sure the body is not twizted the bods twizt alot cuz of the fe3 suspison

There shouldn't be any it should have seeled bearings

To "me", this is a good question and will turn into a long story. My per sai' is 2.4 dohc. quad...yeah i said quad. Gettin' hard to find & will explode @ any moment. But thing everyone may not think about, is make them time 1+ and take out ANY air restrictors OUT. The transmissions are pretty much built exactly alike. But there is a diffefernce in shifting points. Yup. I have owened 5 @ the same time.1 for every day of the week so ta speak.... And yes, I DID get into the wrong red one and waited for my driver. Joke on me... I loved it...Just ta' see folks laugh. It was a blast. I am bluegrasskeith on the ebay thing. A small hint more of me there. See how I stand kinda' thang...I will and much more over the span of my time, I will spill ALL,.. of my years of repairing these jbodys. Although not very pretty engine, you can STill make it a pretty fun ride if you wont be affraid to do something about the rear tires losing trac & gettin' round on ya'...If you could see the differance on shifting points..VERY important issue ..w/either advancing time on GM's unadvancible or the "Sticky Cam"... Yup..that works also,AS LONG AS, you replace the buckets that open ALL 16 valves evenly. Low RPM wont need 16.Only when you push it. This is currently on going w/the white 97 z-car. Since mid O7 or so. The light stays solid (along w/the AirBag Light) Starts and runs flawless. When the light first came on, the theft system would keep the fuel system shut down and would not start. Even after the 10 min reset period. No start situation. The theft light flash 10 and stay solid. Still no start and flash 10 more. So I had 5 of these things @ 1 point. Started swappin' parts out & around just to figure this s***. Process of elimination was the only solution. (i thought wrong) ...mor later

you have to remove the headlight assembly, there are 2 bolts for each side. To get to the bolts, you'll need to remove the plastic cover that goes across the front just under the hood. After you do that you can undo the bolts and access the bulbs.

Mine was mounted to the back of the engine block but that is in a 93 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 4L engine, yours shouldn't be too different.

Just follow a spark plug wire from the spark plug to the other end. It will end at the ignition coil and the ignition coil is attached to the Ignition control module.

You most likely have to jack up the whole front end and get under the car to reach it like I did (it was easier), or you might be able to reach it through the top of the engine bay.

Usually in or very near the fuse block under the dash on driver's side