Chevy Cavalier Z24

It can need a new slave or master cyl. TAke it to a garage as it is hard to bleed and to work on.

Front Speakers: 6.5" Component system

Rear Speakers: 6"x9"

on the bottom of the clutch arm going into the tranny it looks like a little nipple like a brake bleeder screw

try using vice grips to hold the nut while you use a wrench on the bolt

Using 6 point sockets or wrenches will help reduce that situation from happening.

no

Which fan is not working? Engine fan or HVAC fan?

no u have to drop the tank down

there is no fuel shut off for your cavalier but if you look in the fuse panel inside your car or under the hood you might find a relay or a fuse marked fuel pump and that should shut it off

yes most are depends on engine and trans set up though

Should be about 2 quarts.

The hanes manual tells you how to do it. I will be doing it this next weekend.

I was at Best Buy 3-11-08 looking for new speaker ideas and their store computer shows 2001 Tacmoa speakers being 5x7. Hope this helps.

Perhaps that's because they only sell 5"x7" and not 6"x8"(2001 Tacoma factory door speaker) or maybe they just don't advertise it. That extra 2 inches can make a big difference in the sound quality. I'd also recommend replacing the factory tweeter with a reliable, good name brand. Made a huge difference for me. I'd suggest Amazon for a broad selection, affordable prices, and many are shipped free:)

I replaced mine in my 01 z24. I'm a mechanic so I got a deal on parts and the labor was free. However the slave cylinder is located inside the transmission, so to replace it you need to pull the transmission. The book at my shop says 9 hours to remove and install. In my opinion you should get a clutch kit which comes with a clutch disc, pressure plate, and slave cylinder. I know that cost me around 350. Another thing to think about is replacing the master cylinder for your clutch. Nine times out of ten if you replace the slave cylinder the master will start leaking in about a month or two. All said and done your probably looking at 1000-1200 for parts and labor.

The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

This is a little time consuming. Print this out. Decide if you have patience enough to do the job, or pay Precision Tune $398 to do the job. As stated above the Ranger 2.3L has 8 plugs, 2 per cylinder. First, buy good platinum plugs so you won't have to revisit this in another 30K miles...but rather 60-80K. Also, buy top quality spark plug wires and do them at the same time. Here is how to proceed.

Tools you will need. (2) 6inch extensions for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench.

(1) 3inch extension for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench.

(1) Swivle Socket extension for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench.

(1) Small flat head screw driver.

(1) Large flat head screw driver for the intake tube clamp on the throttle body.

(1) 1/2inch socket for exhaust manifold studs.

(1) Spark plug socket with rubber insert to hold plugs in place while inserting & removing.

Some liquid wrench or WD-40.

Some Anti-seize for your spark plugs.

Some Dielectric grease.

Magnetic Pickup Tool may be needed.

Needlenose Pliers

Preparation Steps: Prep Step A - Unhook the round air intake where the air filter is located on the passanger side of the vehicle.

Prep Step B - Loosen the clamp that holds the air tube to the throttle body intake and pull the tube off.

Prep Step C - Remove the tube from the top of the engine that circulates the crankcase air back through the intake tube. It's located right behind the oil filler cap.

Prep Step D - Move the entire air intake tube towards the front of the vehicle and lay it on the radiator/fan area.

Your now ready to start.

Start with the passanger side of the engine. It is relatively clutter free. Start with the 1st cylinder at the front of the engine.

1. Twist & remove the spark plug boot from the existing plug.

2. Use a very small flat edged screwdriver to pry open the clips that hold the plug wires together. Note the entire clip is easy to slide off of the little round mounting grommet attached to the engine...then you can hold it in some good light to get a better view of how to open it with the little flat edged screw driver.

3. Use a 6" extension & a 3" extension & your deep socket for the spark plug. I believe it is a 5/8ths...but can't remember for sure.

4. Remove the first plug, yes it will be tight against the 2nd coil pack, but it does remove without taking the coil pack off.

5. Replace the old plug with a new Bosch Platinum Plus 2 prong plug and use some anti-seize on the threads and tighten to the appropriate torque. For me, that's tight but not too tight.

6. Remove the old plug wire from the coil pack. It will be going to the 2nd coil pack (located to the rear of the first coil pack).

7. Install your new plug wire on the coil pack & coat the inside with some dielectric grease if you have some or if the plug wire set comes with some.

8. Repeat steps 1-7 for plugs on 2 & 3.

9. Plug #4 - the last plug on the passanger side. Remove the two (2) 1/2inch bolts that holds a bracket to the exhaust manifold. Make sure you spray the studs these bolts are on with some DW-40 or liquid wrench. Exhaust manifold studs are notorious for having a lot of rust & being difficult to turn nuts off without shearing off the stud & banging up your knuckles at the same time. It has some sort of aluminum box ontop of this bracket with some sensor wires coming out of it. Slip the bracket off and simply lay it to the rear of the engine to provide better access to this last cylinder.

10. Repeat steps 1-7 for plug #4.

11. Remount bracket containing the aluminum box with sensor wires. Tighten the two 1/2 inch nuts back down.

You have now completed the passanger side of the vehicle. It's should only have taken you about 45 minutes if you were working slow.

Now it's time to do the hard side. The drivers side of the engine appears to be literally encased in fuel injection wiring, and the intake manifold. Slow down, take a break, breath deep. You will NOT have to remove the intake manifold to accomplish this.

Step 12 - You will notice on the first cylinder at the front of the engine the spark plug wire has a grey handle sticking up next to the A/C compressor. Using some pliers (needle nose worked for me) twist & pull this grey handle. The spark plug boot should pop free.

Step 13 - Using your small flat edged screw driver, unhook the spark plug wire clips that hold the wires together. There are 3 - One just after the 1st coil pack located at the front of the engine, another just on the other side of the valve cover and a small 2 clip located about 1/2 way back on the valve cover under the intake manifold. Remember you can slip these clips off of their round mounting points to make access easier to un-hook the clips.

Step 14 - Remove the spark plug wire from Cylinder #1 on the Drivers side.

Step 15 - Using the small flat edged screw driver press the 4 connection points on the grey handle that is attached to the wire. It will separate down the middle and allow you to remove the wire.

Step 16 - Replace the wire with the new wire - ensure you line up the rubber round plugs with the round holes in this grey handle & snap it back together with the new wire in place.

Step 17 - Hold the spark plug socket in your left hand down near the plug. Now feed a 6" inch extension below the A/C Compressor line (black pipe) and the A/C Compressor with your right hand and attach the spark plug socket into the extension. (It will not fit if you try to slide the socket between the Compressor and the black A/C compressor line.)

Step 18 - Slip the socket onto the plug. Attach an additional 3 or 6 inch extension to the existing extension & attach your socket wrench.

Step 19 - Remove the plug & proceed to replace it with a Bosch Platinum plug & anti-seize on the threads.

Step 20 - Feed your new Spark Plug wire over to the 1st coil pack & replace it on the coil pack.

Step 21 - Take a break. Get some water.

Step 22 - Move on to the second spark plug. There is no grey handle on the second spark plug boot. You will be able to reach it & twist the boot and remove it. Replace the wire as you have done previously on the first coil pack.

Step 23 - To remove the second spark plug use your spark plug socket and a 3inch extension. Slide the extension & socket onto the plug. Next get a swivel socket adapter for your 3/8ths inch and attach it to a 6 inch extension. Now connect the 6inch extension & the swivel socket adapter to the 3inch extension. You will now find that it does not bind very much and you will be able to loosen the #2 spark plug.

Step 24 - Repeat Step 19.

Step 25 - Attach the spark plug wire to the plug.

Step 26 - Another break & more water.

Step 27 - Look between the intake manifold tubes & you will see another grey handle for spark plug number 3. Using needle nose pliers reach in between the intake manifold tubes and twist & pull the spark plug boot off.

Step 28 - Un-hook the spark plug wire from the 1st coil pack. Now is a good time to check and make sure you got that 3rd wire clip un-hooked so the spark plug wire will move easily. Now pull the plug wire out between / through the intake manifold tubes until it is free from the engine. Careful, go slow feed with your left hand while pulling slowly with your right hand.

Step 29 - Repeat steps 15 & 16 with this plug wire.

Step 30 - Using a 6 inch extension & another 6 inch extension hooked together, put your spark plug socket on and slide it between the intake manifold tubes and onto the spark plug. Remove the spark plug. If it drops out of your socket, use a magnetic pickup tool (telescoping rod with a magnet on the end) and retrieve your plug from the top of the intake manifold.

Step 31 - Repeat Step 19.

Step 32 - Feed your new spark plug wire through the intake manifold tubes like you removed it. With the coil pack end first and reach behind the intake manifold (yes it's tight but you will be able to feel it) and slowly pull it towards the front of the engine while feeding the plug wire with your other hand.

Step 33 - Using the grey handle and a flashlight, line up and push the plug wire onto the spark plug using your pliers again.

Step 34 - Repeat step 26.

Step 35 - Move to the last plug...your almost there..hang in there! Look between the last 2 intake manifold tubes & you will see another grey handle for spark plug number 4. Using needle nose pliers reach in between the intake manifold tubes and twist & pull the spark plug boot off.

Step 36 - Un-hook the spark plug wire from the 1st coil pack. Now pull the plug wire out between / through the intake manifold tubes until it is free from the engine. Careful, go slow feed with your left hand while pulling slowly with your right hand until the wire is free.

Step 37 - Repeat steps 15 & 16 with this plug wire.

Step 38 - Develop X-ray vision & using the flashlight look and see the very tip top of the spark plug. Line up your two 6inch extensions with your spark plug socket on the end and slip it over this last spark plug.

Step 39 - Going slow, remove the last plug. If it drops out once again use your magnetic pickup tool to retrieve it.

Step 40 - Repeat Step 26.

Step 41 - Proceed to replace it with a Bosch Platinum plug & anti-seize on the threads. This is where your X-ray vision is going to be helpful. This last hole is rather hard to see when you have your spark plug socket in place and are attempting to locate the hole. Remember the hole will be further towards the back of the block than the middle. You will eventually find it and without cross threading the plug it will fit and you can tighten it up.

Step 42 - Feed the spark plug wire once again through / between the intake manifold tubes with the coil end first. You will then use your X-ray vision & needle nose pliers to grip the grey handle and re-insert it over the plug.

Step 43 - Finally you connect this last wire to the 1st coil pack and make sure that the clips on all the plug wires are closed with the wires neatly arranged in them.

Step 44 - Make sure each of the spark plug wires are attached to the coil packs and the two clips on each side of the coil packs are snapped beneath the coil pack connection points.

Step 45 - Slap yourself on the back...your done! Go out to dinner to celebrate the money you just saved!

That is a big negative, the Ecotec S/C is an M62. But there is a 2.4L M45 GMPP Supercharger available for it.

Remove the rotor. Knock the remaining stub out with a hammer and punch. Go to a parts store and buy a new stud/w nut. Place the new stud into the hub, and draw it down tight with the nut, installed temporarily backwards.

Dual exhaust and P71 have 210. Single Exhaust will have 190. But in reality you can go head and shave off 20 or so respectivly as the car is ten yrs old.

There is no direct conversion from engine displacement to horsepower.

First check fuse. Then check switch by test light with power on this will mean if there is power to the swtch if not check wiring. if there is power in the wire. then replace switch. Then check wires. By volt meter. If wire damage repair or re place wire.

A common problem with a Lincoln Towne Car is the gear inside the power window motor fails. The sound that it normally makes when this problem exists is "Zoom, Zoom, Zoom, etc." when the switch is used in both directions. The gear will need to be replaced.

Check the wire harness for cracks in between the door opening, with time it brakes from closing/opening doors

Pour rubbing alcohol on the switch. It cleans the shumtz out and sometimes works.

Nervous about using rubbing alcohol? Try some contact cleaner (check Radio Shack). It won't fog styrene plastics like alcohol will.

With the key -off- (no power), spray the cleaner into the switch (careful of splashing in the eyes) and work the switch a bunch of times.

For the shade tree mechanic there is a heat sensitive circuit breaker in the motor that fails more often than the motor. Jump it out and put an external self resetting 10a breaker in the motor line

A method that somtimes works when you have a bad conecction is slamming the door. It is useful for when you need to close the window eg so people cannot break into your car. Not exactly a long term solution though.

I'm assuming you mean "hotwire"? Don't try it. You will fry the computer.

While I haven't checked this particular combination out myself, it should swap right over. They are both OBD II and should run the same sensors to operate. If you had to do anything at all it might be to switch over some sensors.

Yes, they are the "bucket" type. About 1" tall and about the size of a half-dollar. They are not cheap. You may find a set of new ones on eBay at a lower price.

This 2.4L dont have rocker arms and push rods.