Chevy Cheyenne

I have a 1991 K1500 4X4 it's aprox. curb weight is 5000 lbs.

I've a 1998 Z71 and I get 14 to 17 mpg. Average 16 to 17 mpg on the first half of the tank and 14 to 15 mpg on the bottom half. Driving conditions will vary it.

my 4x4 ant working right on a 1995 chevyz71 its locking but light not coming on and is not pulling.

Three speed automatic? Should be a 4L60 tranny in there - 4 speed with OD. Does the shift indicator have both a "D" and a "D" with a circle around it?

If so, only tow in "D" and keep it below 8,500 lbs. If not, keep it below 7,000 lbs.

(I've been towing with Chevy trucks since 1968)

1988 C1500 should have the 700R4 4-spd automatic transmission which was in a selection of full-size rear wheel drive cars, trucks, and vans. I do believe the you could have an older body style C10, being a 1988. I would be very surprised if you had a 350 or 400 automatic 3-spd in that truck either way. The 4L60 wasn't in place until roughly the Vortec engine family. Depending on the body; truck, SUV, or van, you should be looking at 94-95ish to get into the 4L60. No disrespect to the previous answer, he obviously has more experience than I have with the Chevy trucks. I've owned an 89 Chevy, 90 GMC, and currently a 93 Chevy (5spd this time). I have also owned an 89 (I think) Astro van with the 4.3 and 700R4 and a 99 Tahoe which had the Vortec 5.7 and the 4L60E. I have popped two 700R4 transmissions, well, two have failed on me while I owned them. NEVER tow with the 700R4 in overdrive unless you have a very light load. Those things weren't great from the factory with no load. You will shift too much and lock/unlock the torque converter until you overheat the transmission if you tow much of anything in overdrive. My mechanic, on the second failed 700R4 suggested using "D" unless you were planning on doing over 55 for a decent amount of time and fairly straight road. I basically used it only on the highway. If you truly do have the 700R4, your torque converter will lock/unlock in "D" just as it would in "D" with the circle around it. If you just barely apply the brake, the torque converter will temporarily unlock. They operate on a vacuum (I believe). When you apply the brake it sees that as a sign that you will be stopping. I think the heaviest I ever put behind a 5.7L with the 700R4 was around 6,000 lbs. It pulled OK but by no means was it a monster tow vehicle. 6,000 with the 99 Tahoe on the other hand was barely noticed.

I have a 98 S10 with 2.2L and I just had them torqued down to 15Ft Lbs. They were loose and causing a leak, instead of replacing the gasket I tightened the bolts and Im keepin an eye on it. Seems to have worked!!!!!!

youy bestbet is to go and buy the book. it will have every bit of information for your truck. Autozone.com has a repair guide that is also somewhat helpful.

With your stereo turned off, you use the audio control buttons (the up and down arrows, right next to the "audio" button) The down arrow is hours, up arrow is minutes. Hold down the button til you here a tiny beep, then it will allow you to fix the time. Just hit the button until you get to the correct hour/minute.

u have to pull the emergency brake just past the point you set it and then press the button .... this should release and unlock the brake.

Drain the water from your 1998 Chevrolet S 10 cooling system. Remove the water pump return hose. Remove the water pump belt. Remove the water pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new water pump.

230, it went to 255 in 1996 with the vortec

with no problem. you could bolt a 572 in. remember trans will have to be a 4l80e trans. and if its carb just use a turbo 400 trans

remove ceter cap on steering wheel to gain access to large nut romve nut then use a steering wheel puller assembly pull steerinr wheel off the shaft

I had the same symptoms with my 90 non-turbo "Z". It did end up being a bad fuel injector. While it was being fixed and the had the injectors exposed, I had all of them changed so I wouldn't have to pay the labor if this happened again.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-96jByR9lvTK/app/car/mycar.aspx

; Front speakers : Dash: 4x6" : Front Door: 6-1/2"

; Far rear speakers : Behind Seat: 4x6"

5 qts. If its a 4x4 it may hold 6 qts.

If it is just a daily driver then 8 degrees is about right, but if you run premium or like just a bit more performance, take it to 10 degrees.

There is a fuel filter on the driver side framerail and also a "bag" filter on the pump inlet (in the tank). I wouldn't worry about that one unless you're having issues.

The most common cause of lifters knocking is low oil pressure.

The engine sizes for the 1972 Chevy Cheyenne included the 250, the 262, the 292, the 305, the 350, and the 400. The 454 was also offered for the 1973 model year.

Your derailer needs to be adjusted. If you look at the derailer from the side you should be able to see two screws that are used to set the limits of the derailer's movement. The one at the top determines how far towards the wheel the derailer will go and the lower determines how far towards the frame it will go. Lift the rear wheel of the ground, crank the pedals by hand and switch to the gear where the chain jumps off the sprocket, but stop cranking before it jumps off! Now tighten the top screw a little, and you should see the derailer move out a little. Get back to cranking with the rear wheel elevated and see if the chain stays in place. If it still jumps off, give the screw a few more turns. If it refuses to go onto the the sprocket, back the screw out a little. Do a search for "Park tools", "bicycle tutor" or "Sheldon Brown" for some nice online tutorials on bike maintenance.

no

It's made out of a cheap pot metal. Some people tend to let the handle "snap" back to it's resting position after they open the door. That snap can, over time, cause some metal fatigue in the cheap metal used in those handles and they will break. To reduce the chance of that happening again, after pulling the handle to open the door keep your fingers behind the handle and slowly allow the handle to return to it's normal, resting position.

in the fuel tank

if you have the key your golden, if not then your in my boat, from what I've done and read remove the steering wheel first, two Phillips screws hold the center section of the wheel, once you've taken the cover off,move the wires in the way remove the bolt in the center, its 15/16" there may be a wire in one of the holes right next to the center bolt, depress it and then get the infamous steering wheel puller. screw in the bolts and pull the wheel, put that to the side, onve you get that there will be a few more Phillips screws holding yet more stuff in place, remove them, there will be enough slack in the wires you can pull them to the left and down, out of your way, if you have the key turn it on, but don't start the vehicle, you will notice there is a little pin on the inside of the column underneath the lock cylinder itself, depress this and jiggle the key, the lock should pop out.

I however do not have the key, I attempted to drill the pin out, no go, so I started to drill the ignition out where the key goes, that seems to work so far, but it got cold outside so I came in to see if there was an easier way, so far no luck, I hope yours goes better