Chrysler Concorde

On a 1999 Chrysler Concorde LX with a 3.2-liter engine, the camshaft position sensor is located on the front of the engine, near the timing cover. It is typically positioned near the cylinder head, on the driver's side. You may need to remove some components for easier access, so consult a repair manual for specific details on removal and installation.

For a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with a 2.7-liter engine, it's generally recommended to use 5W-30 motor oil. This viscosity provides good protection and performance under a range of temperatures. Always check the owner’s manual for specific recommendations and ensure the oil meets the necessary specifications.

To recharge the AC in a 2000 Chrysler Concorde, first ensure the engine is off and locate the low-pressure service port, typically found on the larger AC line. Use an AC recharge kit, which includes a can of refrigerant and a hose with a gauge. Start the engine and turn the AC to the maximum setting, then connect the hose to the low-pressure port and follow the instructions on the kit to add refrigerant until the gauge indicates the correct pressure. Be cautious not to overcharge and check for any leaks before completing the process.

On a 2003 Chrysler Concorde, the oxygen (O2) sensors are located in two primary locations: upstream (pre-catalytic converter) and downstream (post-catalytic converter). The upstream O2 sensor is typically found on the exhaust manifold or just below it, while the downstream sensor is located on the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. You may need to lift the vehicle for easier access to the sensors. Be sure to disconnect the battery before working on the sensors to avoid any electrical issues.

For a 1999 Chrysler Concorde, the cooling system capacity is approximately 12 to 14 quarts, depending on whether the engine is a 2.7L or 3.2L/3.5L. When mixing antifreeze, a common recommendation is to use a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water. Always refer to your owner’s manual for the exact specifications and recommendations for your vehicle.

To remove the air filter box in a Chrysler Concorde, first, disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. Then, remove the intake duct by loosening the clamps and detaching it from the throttle body. Next, unbolt the air filter box from its mounting points, usually located on the sides or bottom. Finally, lift the air filter box out of its compartment, taking care to avoid damaging any surrounding components.

at the bottom of radiator

Flight discounts for seniors can typically be found directly through the booking site you'd buy normal tickets from. Any bonuses or discounts are usually applied on checkout, so you will have the opportunity to declare any discounts at that time.

Maybe nothing. These kits are not cheap. Can you get a guy (~mechanic) who personaly wants a airbag system to do the job for nothing if he ges to keep the bags?

5w30 or 10w30

There are many possible causes. With my sons LXi this problem seems to have been related to the factory security system and a faulty tamper detection switch at the trunk key-lock. Another symptom is the alarm (horn and lights) would sound off on its own randomly.

You can tell if you have this problem by locking the car with the key or fob and watching the red light in the center of the dashboard under the rear view mirror up near the windshield. If the light comes on solid for a few seconds before it begins flashing, then your trunk switch has a fault. After the alarm sounds, it prevents the car from being started and leads to all sorts of autoshutdown (ASD) issues where the relays under the hood keep clicking until the fuses are pulled to reset the ASD and PCM circuits. Sometimes the engine may start, run for a few seconds and die.

Locking and unlocking the car and trunk until the normal security light sequence (16 seconds of fast flash, then slow flashes) seems to put everything back in order.

Or your battery could just be be extremely low. it takes much more energy from the battery to start a vehicle than it does to power the radio or interior lights. the clicking sound comes from the starter relay trying and failing to engage the starter and turn the engine over.

there is one of two things that would do this,1: themostat is stuck in closed postion,2: water pump is in need of replacement.in this year of van I would be replacing therostat first ,this costs much less and is not that hard of a job.If the problem still remains then check to see is pump is pumping. Either one of these things will cause over heating and fan to remain on .

Most of the Chrysler engines from the 1980's till the late 2000's except diesel and some 4 cylinders.

== == 2.7 Liter V6 Engine.. On The Drivers Side Look Under The Engine.. Its Easily Accessed By Removing The Drivers Side Front Tire.. There Are 3 10mm Bolts On It And 2 Connection Wires To The Engine..

located in the transmission case where the speedo cable connects

4x Rolls-Royce Olympus 593 engines with afterburner

check the battery and or alternator

Switch that prevents gear shift lever from moving from "Park" position until brake is applied

Housing at lower radiator hose

NO

-- Simply reach in, pop off the rubber cap to access the bulb. It's held in place with a little metal clasp which you can unclip once you've disconnected the bulb (Just pull on the connector). swap the bulbs over, clip the clasp back in and push the connector back on. Place rubber cap back on to keep the water out and you are ready to go!

** This is 100% accurate. The guy that tore the whole front of his car apart to change the bulb is a dumb dumb, or is visually impaired! Cheers to the second blokes good advice that I just reposted.

http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/chrysler-crossfire/TAK78RTDSL2KKSMSB

I just did this today, and it is a bear!! Trial and error gave me the following sequence:

1)Jack up and support front of car, remove both front tires.

2)Remove belly pan under engine.

3)Remove forward plastic part of inside fender, both sides.

4) Remove bumper cover and grille.

5) You did all of this just to access the 2 lower bolts holding the headlight bucket in!!! Believe me, there is no other way.

6)Remove those bolts and the 2 bolts on brackets holding top of headlight bucket

7)Wrestle bucket out, place on bench. Take careful note of how it came out!

8)Remove #10 Torx screws holding plate with lamp. You'll see the spring dingus holding the lamp to the plate. Best if you have a magnetic tipped torx driver or long skinny magnet.

9) Plug in new lamp

10) Reverse the whole procedure. Be careful with bumper cover! It is awkward and contains metal parts that will scratch your paint!

11)Thank me. It took me many hours in 95+ heat to figure this out, and as far as I can tell no one else has posted this info anywhere! It will take you about an hour and a half.

"I gotta tell you, I can't see why this is necessary. Simply reach in, pop off the rubber cap to access the bulb. It's held in place with a little metal clasp which you can unclip once you've disconnected the bulb (Just pull on the connector). swap the bulbs over, clip the clasp back in and push the connector back on. Place rubber cap back on to keep the water out and you are ready to go!

It's a little awkward as it is tucked in behind the front brace, but nothing that would make it necessary to start dismatling the front of your car!

I reckon on 5 minutes."

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** It's true - don't listen to the first guys

The question needs to be clarified...are you replacing a bulb or the entire headlight assembly? Entire headlight assembly requires dismantling.

Usually inside the alternator

If you are talking about the rear upper roof light, just pop out the lens with a small screw driver, which will expose the bulb. Remove the small steel reflector and pull the bulb out of the socket. Does anyone know how to replace the front upper console light bulbs? There is one screw in the front, but removing it does not let the assembly drop.

This happened on my sons 1995 Concorde. We thought it was the turn signal flasher, located under the sterring wheel. It is a black box with alot of wires coming out of it...kind of hard to get to in the small cramped spot. We replaced it and is still didn't work. Took it to the Chrysler Dealer and it turned out to be a wire that had came loose from the battery and the dealer charged me $70 to show me where and to hook it back up. The following are the directions I got from another forum I go to when I need Help. "Remove the black panel from under the driver's side dash (heater duct) and look for a white plastic box between the column and the parking brake, the flasher is a square shaped and about 3" long and made of black plastic like you found out with a 4 or 5 wire harness connection hooked to it (also black), you will need a small screwdriver or a key to slip in between the flasher and it's mount to unclip it and it will slide off the mounting tab. Aftermarket Flashers will not have the mounting slots for remounting, you may need to get a replacement from the dealer or a used one at a wrecking yard if you want to mount the replacement in the same location. Be aware that some models have 4 terminals (usually 93-94 models) and others have 5 terminals (95-up), get the replacement with the correct number of terminals as they do not interchange. I included some digital shots of mine in my LHS but they are in the same location for the Concorde too, might be a little fuzzy but should give you an idea on what you are looking for. The panel that must be removed to gain access And the flasher. Note mine is a 4 wire, yours may or may not be a 5 wire."