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Clutches and Flywheels
Clutches and flywheels are parts of a car’s transmission, enabling drivers to accelerate and change gears. They come in a variety of combinations based on the driver’s needs and quality of the ride.
4,058 Questions
How do you adjust Daewoo Matiz clutch cable?
Under the front of the car to the right a bit is the clutch cable and arm. The cable runs away from you, from the adjustment nut on a threaded bolt. This extends through the clutch arm and on to the cable. Between the part where the cable stop is, and the clutch arm is a kind of ribbed PVC sheath. This has some of the cable running through it. So firstly pinch the sheath at the far end and pull towards the clutch arm, which is closer to you. You will see the nut on the rod slide towards you, moving the nut clear of the clutch arm. With your other hand, turn the nut clockwise 2,3, maybe four times and let go of the other hand on the PVC sheath and watch the nut slot itself back into the clutch arm. Then just try your car in forward and reverse to see if you have adjusted enough or too much. If so adjust again. This is a very easy job to do yourself. You don't usually even need tools to do it, unless the nut is stiff.
How tight do the clutch springs need to be tightened on a Honda CB360?
the clutch springs are not adjustable. proper tension is set when the springs are tightened all the way down. the bolts are 6mm w/10mm heads should torque to 90 to 110 inch lbs.
How do you repair a matiz clutch?
A mechanically competent person with a good set of spanners/sockets and a ball joint splitter can replace a matiz (original model) clutch.It will take all day and is fiddly getting to certain of the nuts and bolts, especially at the back of the engine compartment. You will need to work from above and beneath the engine compartment.Make sure axle stands are safe and secure and car chocked.Download the workshop manual on line for free and follow the instructions first for the removal of driveshafts and transaxle assembly, then clutch replacement sections.Tip. you do have to remove the drive shaft inner ends but not outer ends, the drive axle to hub caulking bolt does not have to be removed as stated but the hub lower nut and steering ball joint need to be removed along with the front under longitudinal frames. By pulling the hub outward the driveshaft inner end can be levered free and the driveshaft twisted down and forward (turn the hub assembly so as not to put strain on the joints and rubber boots) protect the released end with a bag to stop ingress of dirt and suspend out of the way.removal of air filter, battery and tray (worth doing the tray as it gives better access), gear change outer cables, electric connectors, speedo cable nut and clutch cable, is straight forward. Removal of starter motor mount bolts and access to the gear change bracket bolts is fiddly but doable (knuckle scrapes and anglo saxon expletives will occur!).The remaining bolts are easy.you do not need to remove the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts as there is enough play when tilting the engine to remove the transaxle assembly.The engine as a whole does need to be tilted down at the trransaxle end to give enough room to remove the box. I found that the whole supported itself on the remaining three engine mounts with a little help of a jack under the engine just in case. In fact I had to release the bolt from the engine block lower mounting (by the alternator) to actually get enough tilt.The transaxle should now pull/lever straight off and can be lowered to the ground with a little deft twisting. I would say it weighs the same as a 25 kg bag of sand.Clutch plate, cover and release bearing replacement is straight forward but you must ensure the new clutch plate is well centered. If it is a little bit out of centre you will not be able to reattach the transaxle assembly.Make or borrow a centring tool. I made one out of a hotpoint washing machine transit bolt ten mm copper tubing (thats the size of the flywheel input shaft bearing) and a 42mm plastic pushfit plumbing blanking plug! Be ingenious using all those "I'll keep that it might be useful one day" bits and pieces in your garage.At this point I stopped for lunch.Replacing the transaxle assembly was helped by a second pair of hands pushing it up into place by jack whilst I positioned it in generally the right position. With a little zumba wiggle and push it will eventually fit in place - if you centred the clutch plate correctly. Get a couple of bolts back in to hold in place and reassembly is a reverse of dismantling.Don't forget to refill the gearbox with oil.Check you have'nt trapped any electric cables.Be methodical about checking all bolts are replaced correctly not only on the transaxle assembly but also the front suspension. You will be tired by now it is easy to make a mistake. Have a cup of tea and check twice.Now the scary bit turning the ignition, listening for strange noises and taking her for a test ride. I was pleasantly surprised, all went well.It took me all day 9-7pm with 3 breaks totalling an hour. I had the help of my 15 yr old son for half a day - until his girlfriend arrived. I worked on my driveway and for 2hrs it pissed down with rain apart from that all was as I expected. I laid in the bath afterwards easing my 52 yr old joints, thinking of the hundreds of pounds saved on the garage quotes. Ahhh bliss.Total cost = 10hrs and £60 for parts (bought online and delivered next day from the excellent eurocarparts.com).Am I a mechanic? No. Just a competent DIYer.Tools required 8,10,12,14,17,19,24mm sockets set of similar spanners various pliers and screwdrivers, a ball joint splitter and home made clutch centring tool.Rags and containers for nuts and bolts.
How do you replace the clutch on a 1997 Chevy S-10?
2. get a container and drain the transmission fluid so you dno't make a mess when you pull the drive shaft.
2.a unscrew the four bolts that secure the drive shaft to the rear end
2.b hit the exhaust bolts with penetrating oil again
3. remove your container of tranny fluid and replace the drain plug.
4. remove the drive shaft by popping it off the rear end and then sliding it out of the transmission, if you have a plug for the tranny, use it now to avoid drips in your work space.
4.a ****FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION**** remove the rubber insert in the large storage area of your console and remove the bolt holding it in. once that is removed, pull the carpet back around the shift boot and remove the bolts which hold it in place, slip the boot off the top of the shifter. Here you can make it easier on yourself by removing the 4 bolts that keep the shift stick in place and remove it entirely, or you can undo the lock washer on the bottom of the shift stick, and unscrew the stick, leaving a bit of the male end attached to the tranny. If you opt to just remove the stick you will have to drop the tranny further to pull it out.
If you remove the four bolts holding the shift stick in place, there will be a plastic piece attached to the knob on the bottom of the shift stick, which situates the stick correctly inside the tranny, it will pop off and you will have to fish it out later but you won't have to drop the tranny as far.
5. now hit the exhaust with the penetrating oil again, these are not bolts and nuts but studs and nuts, you DO NOT want to strip or snap them off so patience is key in this step. Get a hammer and give them a couple of good solid strikes everywhere but the nuts, you don't want to ding up the nuts, who does? Then with the correct box wrench, place the closed end on the nut and strike the wrench, this will allow you to break free oxidation, rust and grime that has gotten in there without dinging the outside of the nut. Then slowly apply pressure and began loosening them, as SOON as you get it to budge a little bit, retighten it the same amount and hit it with oil again, work it back and forth before taking it all the way off to let the oil do its work and make your job easier. remove all six in this fashion, it took me about 20 25 minuts, and i didn't strip any.
6. Now unbolt the crossmember that is supporting the transmission, before doing this, use another floor jack or a stand to support the tranny. the crossmember and the short exhaust section should come out as one piece.
7. lower the tranny enough to unsnap all the connections for odo/speedo etc. as well make sure to unsnap the 3 fuel lines that run across the top of it.
7.a The clutch line connects on the side of the tranny, drivers side. The connector is similar to an air compressor connection. There is a plastic ring inside a collar. the plastic ring must be depressed ATLEAST flush with the collar, mine actually sunk beneath a touch and then popped right out. This may take a while, it did for me, because i didn't want to damage anything.
7.b double check that nothing else is attached to the tranny.
8. Between the engine and the tranny there is a dust cover that is between the flywheel and the engine, there are 4 small bolts that hold it in place. It must be removed or the tranny will not come out. It will not drop free until you pull the tranny.
9. Remove the 5 bolts and one nut and bolt that fasten the tranny to the engine.
10. get ready to catch. lower the tranny until you've cleared the top of the shift housing from the bottom of the vehicle and slide her out.
10. Unbolt pressure plate, remove clutchplate
11. unbolt flywheel, and go ahead and check for oil leaks, make sure your rear seal around the engine out put shaft is good, and that there are no leaks around back of your oil pan.
you're halfway there, and your ready to install components, but before you do, take your flywheel to a machine shop before you get lunch and have them turn/resurface it for about 20 bucks, its a nit picky thing, but after all the work you've done, just do it it'll help tame any clutch chatter that you may have experienced or may have been slated to experience in the future.
then reverse these instructions to get your wheels back on the road and good luck!
How do you replace the clutch in a 96 Geo Metro?
It is not an hard job and can easily be done in less than a day by an amatuer. But if you have to ask how you need to get the manual for the car as there are quite a number of steps.
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I agree that you should have a manual close by for reference, but in its absence, here's the procedure I wrote down last time I changed my clutch.
Prep work:
Jack up the front of the car and support with jackstands
Drain the radiator
Drain the transaxle
Remove the following from above:
battery and battery tray
air filter assembly
3 hoses attached to water pipe (don't lose the clamps)
water pipe - 10mm - (one bolt is almost hidden up top)
negative ground on transaxle - 12mm
various wiring connections
speedometer
clutch cable
starter - 12mm - 2 bolts (don't lose the shim)
Remove the following from below:
shifter lever & support rod from transaxle - 12mm & 14mm
left (driver) A-arm bolt
use prybar to force A-arm down so wheel pulls away (don't destroy your ball joint boot)
prybar half-axle out of transaxle (you'll feel it pop, then slide out)
Support the engine - jackstand + wood blocks work (don't damage the oil pan)
Support the transaxle with jack
Remove flywheel cover plate between engine and bell housing - 12mm
Remove transaxle-to-engine bolts - 14mm
Remove transaxle mount (to frame) bolts - 14mm
Separate transaxle from engine
prybar is ok, but don't force too hard
if they don't come apart easily, adjust the angle using the jack
** At any time after separation, handling the clutch lever may cause the throwout bearing to jump out
Use prybar to 'pop' passenger half-axle from transaxle
Lower transaxle out of the way
Remove clutch pressure plate and disc - 12mm
Remove flywheel - easiest to counter the rotation with a socket on the opposite side of engine (nut inside center pulley)
Have the flywheel resurfaced - about $40 at any reputable machine shop
** This is important if flywheel has discolored "hot spots", failure to do so may cause your new clutch to get chattery and fail early
The new clutch kit will come with a pilot bearing (center of flywheel) and a throwout bearing (inside transaxle on shaft).
If you ask nicely, your machinist may replace the pilot bearing for you while he's got the flywheel
How do you bleed the clutch master and slave cylinder on a 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ?
The answer from Y-THINK-Y is incorrect. The 97 TJ clutch master to slave cylinders are not a conventional brake type hydraulic system. The conventional bleeding process does not work. Does anyone know how the system is purged and bled? Do I need a special pump sysytem of some sort? Basically in the same fashion that you would bleed brakes. Search the FAQ answers for the "how" to bleed brakes. Y-THINK-Y
How can you tell if a clutch master cylinder has gone bad?
They sometimes leak hydraulic fluid down on to the carpet where the peddles are.
How do you take off vw flywheel nut?
Google/Yahoo.... "Torque Tool Flywheel & Drum Plate Kit". Flywheel nut is held on with 238ft lbs and the axle nut is 253ft lbs. One man job with this tool. It also removes the rear axle nut. It's about $60 but well worth it. You can actually re-torque the nuts back on instead of guessing.
thesamba.com, cip1.com, etc.,,,,
Is it necessary to replace the flywheel when getting a new clutch in a passat 2002 1.9cc?
It is not absolutely necessary, but because the surface of the flywheel which mates with clutch friction disk is "Glazed" it needs to be resurfaced. This involves removing the flywheel and having a machine shop grind a few thousands of an inch off of the surface. This procedure can only be done once or twice on most flywheels before they become too thin for usable service.
Of course, other factors can also influence the replacement of the flywheel such as damage to the face caused by cracking or warping.
This extra machine shop charge needs to be weighed against the cost of the new part, sometimes it doesn't pay to try to save $10.
You also need new pressure plate and release bearing, and should really consider new transmission input shaft seal and engine rear main seal while access is easy.
If you "rest" your foot on clutch pedal it will burn (riding clutch) Either keep clutch pedal competely to the floor or keep completely released no in between If you drive the car, you are burning out the clutch. If you don't fully shift into gear you will burn it out too which is easy since the clutch may stay engaged and not let you shift. If you give it gas or lose speed when you finally do shift you've worn your clutch. Do this a few times at high speed and its over. This is what happened to me and it happened fairly quickly on the highway. Ride at the wrong speed in any gear you will burn the 'clutch'. So that means you can't downshift to 2nd gear if you are going 60mph. If you read the list of situations where your engine and transmission can be totally ruined within 5 minutes you will wonder why people even bother. Many manual transmission drivers on the internet are unaware of these situations so be wary of advice from a friend even if he can drive manual transmission. Do yourself the favor and get professional instruction - that's what I'm going to do.
Where is the clutch fluid reservoir in a 84 vanagon?
From what I've read about changing the clutch master cylinder the resivor is behind the instrument cluster (spedo) ;) you can follow the hose from the master cylinder above the clutch pedal.
Why does your automatic transmission slip at low speeds?
im not sure,but i have a 98 Chevy Tahoe and when i go to take off in it,it slips.i have taken it to a repaire place and they changed the transmission fluid and filter,but it still does it.
AnswerHi, I have been having the same problem and I was told that the speed sensor is going. Hope that helps. Ron AnswerIs this happening when you try to go just after coming to a stop? (like at a stop sign) The transmission may be hesitating to shift into first from a higher gear. There shouldn't be a noticeable delay in a properly operating transmission.May be the bands in the lower gears too.
Get if fixed for real this time. I hope that it's still under warranty. Does the repair shop have a warranty on their repairs? Try to get them to reduce the price since you have already paid to get it fixed the first time and they didn't do it properly. Absolutely do not pay the full price. You have already forked out money. They need to do the job right this time. And don't let them pad the bill to make it higher just to make you pay the full amount anyway.
How do you reset the master cylinder in a 1997 Cadillac Deville?
You do not reset a master cylinder. You should bench bleed it before installing.
Does a 2006 Kia Rio have a cable clutch?
Yes. It is located under the breather box for the air intake.
How do you remove the fan bolt from the water pump on a 94 Ford Ranger 6.0?
Your auto parts store usually has a kit you can rent that has a wrench and spanner that allows you to hold the pulley while you loosen the nut. Quick and easy. Just ask for a water pump pulley removal kit.
How do you remove the reel assembly from a craftsman convertible weedwacker model 316 790101?
Turn the "bumper knob" counter-clock wise and the reel assembly will come loose.
How far is a clutch fork supposed to move on a 5.0 mustang?
depends on the clutch/ pressure plate combo but somewhere in the 1.5"-2" range
Where is the clutch master cylinder location on a Nissan pickup?
look at the right side of the firewall.
your clutch is warped from excess heat ////sounds like broken damper springs in the clutch disc have you been dropping the clutch by any chance?
How do you replace the slave cylinder on a 1999 S-10?
The transmission has to be removed to gain access to the clutch slave cylinder.
Is there a switch or fuse to allow ignition on the clutch or clutch pedal of a 1990 Isuzu Trooper 2?
Help me please - engaged clutch - turned key- engine turned over - power and all then died -- restarted - pop and no power as if battery died???? what can I trouble shoot and where to start???? Thanks
It depends on the slave cylinder that you are asking about. The slave cylinder for a hydralic clutch would be neer the bell housing to disengage the clutch. The slave cylinder for drum brakes would be inside the drum between the two shoes, and pressure applied into this cylinder would engage the brakes.
AnswerThe clutch slave is inside the bell housing on most of these. You have to pull the transmission etc to change it out.ANSWERS
TRANSMISSION HOUSING OUTSIDE FLUID PIPE
What is the screeching sound when you press the clutch on a 97 Montero Sport?
Your throw-out bearing has went bad in the clutch assembly. You will have to replace the bearing. Inquire about a throw-out bearing at your local auto-parts store. It is a good rule of thumb that if you're going to dissasemble the clutch assembly, you should replace the clutch, and pressure plate too! When clutch-assy has been removed, check the fly-wheel for scarring on its face where the clutch assembly was once attached. The face should be smooth, and the fly-wheel should NOT be warped, pitted, or damaged! If it is, replace it before you put a brand new clutch assembly back onto the vehicle. FabianTrahan Shadetree-Mech
Why is clutch petal stuck to floor 91 accord dx?
Try replacing the master cylinder and slave cylinder cost under hundred, it's helped me before when my clutch stuck....However if that doesn't work then it may be the pressure plate which requires dropping the transmission...
I have the same issue and am doing the process of elimination, just finished replacing the slave (cost me like $13), now I'm replacing the master cylinder (cost me like $41) but striped the bolt on the pipeline connected to cylinder....FML
