Combustion Engines

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscositycharacteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating they are "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades.

Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code.

The SAE has a separate viscosity rating system for gear, axle, and manual transmission oils, SAE J306, which should not be confused with engine oil viscosity. The higher numbers of a gear oil (e.g., 75W-140) do not mean that it has higher viscosity than an engine oil.

In anticipation of new lower engine oil viscosity grades, to avoid confusion with the "winter" grades of oil the SAE adopted SAE 16 as a standard to follow SAE 20 instead of SAE 15. Regarding the change Michael Covitch of Lubrizol, Chair of the SAE International Engine Oil Viscosity Classification (EOVC) task force was quoted stating "If we continued to count down from SAE 20 to 15 to 10, etc., we would be facing continuing customer confusion issues with popular low-temperature viscosity grades such as SAE 10W, SAE 5W, and SAE 0W," he noted. "By choosing to call the new viscosity grade SAE 16, we established a precedent for future grades, counting down by fours instead of fives: SAE 12, SAE 8, SAE 4."

A single-grade engine oil, as defined by SAE J300, cannot use a polymeric Viscosity Index Improver(also referred to as Viscosity Modifier) additive. SAE J300 has established eleven viscosity grades, of which six are considered Winter-grades and given a W designation. The 11 viscosity grades are 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. These numbers are often referred to as the "weight" of a motor oil, and single-grade motor oils are often called "straight-weight" oils.

For single winter grade oils, the dynamic viscosity is measured at different cold temperatures, specified in J300 depending on the viscosity grade, in units of mPa·s, or the equivalent older non-SI units, centipoise (abbreviated cP), using two different test methods. They are the Cold Cranking Simulator (ASTMD5293) and the Mini-Rotary Viscometer (ASTM D4684). Based on the coldest temperature the oil passes at, that oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. The lower the viscosity grade, the lower the temperature the oil can pass. For example, if an oil passes at the specifications for 10W and 5W, but fails for 0W, then that oil must be labeled as an SAE 5W. That oil cannot be labeled as either 0W or 10W.

For single non-winter grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a temperature of 100 °C (212 °F) in units of mm2/s (millimeter squared per second) or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60. In addition, for SAE grades 20, 30, and 1000, a minimum viscosity measured at 150 °C (302 °F) and at a high-shear rate is also required. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE viscosity grade is.

The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up, to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a lower viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for most single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIIs are added to the oil. These additives are used to make the oil a multi-grade motor oil, though it is possible to have a multi-grade oil without the use of VIIs. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base grade when cold and the viscosity of the second grade when hot. This enables one type of oil to be used all year. In fact, when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.

The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two viscosity grades; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number '10W' is the viscosity of the oil at cold temperature and the second number is the viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F). The two numbers used are individually defined by SAE J300 for single-grade oils. Therefore, an oil labeled as 10W-30 must pass the SAE J300 viscosity grade requirement for both 10W and 30, and all limitations placed on the viscosity grades (for example, a 10W-30 oil must fail the J300 requirements at 5W). Also, if an oil does not contain any VIIs, and can pass as a multi-grade, that oil can be labelled with either of the two SAE viscosity grades. For example, a very simple multi-grade oil that can be easily made with modern base oils without any VII is a 20W-20. This oil can be labeled as 20W-20, 20W, or 20. Note, if any VIIs are used however, then that oil cannot be labeled as a single grade.

Breakdown of VIIs under shear is a concern in motorcycle applications, where the transmission may share lubricating oil with the motor. For this reason, synthetic oil or motorcycle-specific oil is sometimes recommended. The necessity of higher-priced motorcycle-specific oil has also been challenged by at least one consumer organization.

Probly yes, Check out the moter mounts and see if they match up. One thing I live in Tennessee and we have emissions checks yearly and when you mix an older engine in a newer body IT SKREWS EVERYTHING UP! These mental giants doing the test are all confused and it becoomes a real hassel every year. Just somthing you may not have thought of, good luck

I don't think you would want to do this swap. You will loose about 40 horsepower and the wiring will not match up.

down grading motors is illegal in usa.

but if you apply you must make it meet the 95 standard.

how are you going to do that.

how are you going to put a 1.3l motor in to a 1.6L EFI system.

yes you can swap it all motor and harnesses and Ecu , BUT IT WILL fail smog.

Unless the test it and you put a new Cat on it and tune it perfect and not tell them it is swapped and then run on the IM240 dyno smog and accidentally pass.

if ,if, if , if.

we just put a new 95 in a 86 sammi here.

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/

up grades are legal.

older cars have bad emissions. and moving fossil motor to newer bodies is illegal.

what legal and what you can get away with , 2 diff things.

Quite possibly. Nissan's are bad for that. Not good news if you break the timing belt. That is why I tell people the following:

It is better to take a vehicle in and have the timing belt changed at the recommended replacement interval at your convenience as opposed to having to have it TOWED in at your extreme INCONVENIENCE, and at the risk of a much higher repair bill if the valves get bent.

Bent valves require the head(s) to be removed, valves replaced, head checked and trued if warped a bit. Trust me, don't go there, take it in a get the belt replaced and pat yourself on the back for having saved yourself one huge headache.

WRONG. it is NON interference. if the belt breaks, the motor will stop, but nothing hits. just put another belt on, line it up, and go. i would change out all the associated parts, tensioner, pulleys, water pump, etc. both engines in the millenia are NOT prone to breaking belts. i have seen engines with near 200k, and the belt looks new. i sure ain't changing ours until 200k or more.

Engine Swap: Tips and Tricks Forewarned is forearmed By: Phil Coconis/autoMedia.com Once you understand the basics of what's involved when replacing an engine, whether or not you've decided to go ahead with the project, here are some tips and tricks to help you with the actual mechanical procedure.

Tools | Back To Top

First, you're going to need a comprehensive set of hand tools and, ideally, even some air tools. You should also consult a service manual for your vehicle, which describes the step-by-step procedure for removal and replacement (R&R) of the engine, including safety precautions and special equipment needed.

Space | Back To Top

Keep in mind that this sort of job may mean that you'll be a "weekend warrior" for the next month or so, and you need to secure the appropriate paved work/storage area to wage your "warfare." It's also good to understand that the point of this whole exercise may have more to do with engaging in satisfying manual work than actually saving lots of money on labor fees.

Hints | Back To Top

Given that, you're well on your way toward actually doing the job. Before proceeding, though, you may find the following principles, hints, and bits of wisdom welcome, since forewarned is forearmed, as the old saying goes.

Safety | Back To Top

If you're not already well aware of this, engine R&R is one of the more potentially hazardous procedures that can be performed on a vehicle. Working in close proximity with large, heavy objects suspended by rigging attached to a hydraulic lift is actually a trade in itself, so if you really don't have a feel for this kind of thing, enlist the help of someone who does. Even if you have all of the skills required, you're probably still going to need a helper for at least some of the individual procedures. Trying to remove a hood, for instance, would definitely call for some back up. It's not recommended that you solo any procedure you're uncomfortable with from a safety perspective.

Patience | Back To Top

You'll need this quality throughout the entire job, from inspecting the used engine for quality and compatibility to filling the fluids properly, and much in between. For instance, even if the used engine appears to be an exact or acceptable match, don't start any prep work on it until you've removed the old engine and have it side-by-side with the good one.

Details | Back To Top

Then carefully check details such as flywheel-to-crankshaft compatibility, exhaust manifold configuration, ancillary component location (including sensors), and external coolant plumbing configuration. Sometimes apparent discrepancies in these details can be corrected easily simply by transferring the old part(s) to the good used engine. And sometimes not-you'll have to determine this firsthand and work out the best solution, which may involve requesting another engine.

Fluids | Back To Top

In addition, take the time to drain all of the applicable fluids before the actual removal of the engine/transmission assembly. This would especially include draining coolant from the engine block, via the block drain plugs-unless they're just too inaccessible. You'll avoid making a slippery, potentially dangerous mess unnecessarily.

Disassembly | Back To Top

Obviously, you'll have to disassemble the engine somewhat in order to safely remove it from the engine bay. How much disassembly is required will be determined by many factors. These include whether the transmission can or should be removed at the same time, which old parts have to be transferred to the good used engine, and which direction it'll be removed (top, bottom or front of the vehicle). Don't forget the type of removal equipment you will be using as well.

Components | Back To Top

Make sure that all relevant hoses, cables, linkages, mounts and stabilizers, electrical connectors, and other components are properly disconnected at the simplest, most accessible points. If any of these components are dangling or protruding into the removal path of the engine assembly, they should be tied out of the way. Plastic cable ties work excellently for this. It is very important that this is done before any attempts are made to lift the engine assembly from its installed position.

Engine Lift | Back To Top

Keep in mind that as you are lifting the engine assembly, and make sure that there is nothing still connected, there is no component interference, and lift angles are correct. Since these factors seem to change by the inch, it's not a bad idea to have that hawkeyed assistant of yours observing from the opposite side that you are working on. As you are progressing, it's extremely important to keep your cool and work under control. Do not force anything! Use your brain, and let the equipment do the heavy stuff. Life, limb, and property can be literally hanging in the balance.

Diligence | Back To Top

Closely related to patience, this quality can help your cause by leaving "no stone unturned" as you proceed through the litany of steps and procedures. As one example, the best time to take care of any potential or perceived problems with the replacement engine and related components is before you begin installing it.

Are the oil seals showing signs of leakage? The crankshaft rear main seal is easy to replace now-much tougher to do later. Ditto for the clutch assembly and flywheel, if so equipped. It doesn't make sense to reinstall a clutch assembly that is mostly worn, since you'll pretty much be paying only for the parts if you decide to replace them now. If the engine is equipped with a timing belt, it should be replaced, as well as other related components. The water pump and thermostat should be replaced, as well as all coolant hoses. The radiator should be pressure- and flow-tested. Make a thorough inspection of all "wear" components on the engine and in the engine bay and repair/replace as needed.

If you're fortunate, there may be some serviceable components that came attached to the replacement engine. If they're in better condition than the old components, use them; and save the money that would have been spent on new ones.

Review | Back To Top

At the end of each procedure, review what you have done. Are the parts installed correctly and the fasteners properly tightened? Anything missing? Any steps omitted?

Looking at the job from a conceptual point of view, the "big picture," will take your skills to a new level. This is how professional mechanics approach a complicated job like this, so they can remember where all of the nuts, bolts, and components fit, without missing a trick. Follow these same principles, and you can do the same.

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