CV Joints

You have to remove the wheel first then the breaks and then the disk once that is done it should be easy to get to the cv joint however be careful when removing the disk bc u have a bearing that may come loose though it wouldn't hurt to check it oh and I forgot there a steering arm you need to unscrew too good luck it should all be common sense from then on

Just did this literally two days ago. It's not that bad really. Once you get the rotor off just undo the bolts holding the upper control ARM and the tie rod (one bolt each). You mite need an air hammer to get that axle loose tho. Good luck

On the 89 I have, you pull the brake, rotor, shock and use a gear puller to disconnect the steering knuckle. Then you use an impact gun to loosen the nut that holds the CV spline into the wheel hub. remove the flange bolts that hold the inside of the CV to the differential. Turn the steering wheel towards the side youre not replacing to get more room under there and the CV should pop out easy.

If you have the proper tools you can change it in about 1.5 hours or less.

Take the hubcap off remove the cuuter key take off washer and remove nut at the center of wheel. It is tight you may need a pipe on your breaking bar. Jack up and secure car take off wheel. remove two bolts on the swing arm. there are two bolts below the strut that can be removed. Pull down on lower assembly and you will get yhe axel out of the outside hub. Now is where the fun begins the axle will either slip out with some force or prying or you may have to remove 6 bolts (12mm) on the inner side closest to engine and then remove.

when braking i get a cliking noise my mechinic checked this out but found nothing

A RUBBING SOUND COULD BE SEVERAL THINGS. COULD BE WHEEL BEARING , DID YOU JUST REPLACE THE ROTORS.? IF SO DID YOU MAKE CERTAIN THE ROTORS WERE SEATED PROPERLY. SOMETIMES YOU DONT GET THEM TIGHT ENOUGH AND THEY WILL WOBBLE AND MESS UP THE BEARING. COULD BE THE CV JOINT IS GOING BAD IF THE CAR IS PRETTY OLD THAT WILL HAPPEN AND YES IT WILL SOUND LIKE A RUBBING NOISE MORE GRINDING BUT COULD SOUND LIKE RUBBING. YOU COULD JUST HAVE A WARPED ROTOR IS THERE A FLUCTUATION IN THE BRAKE PEDDAL WHEN YOU STEP ON IT TO STOP.? JACK UP THE CAR AND PUT SOMTHING BEHIND THE BACK WHEELS, PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND SPIN THAT TIRE SEE IF YOU HERE ANYTHING...IF YOU DO MAYBE BEARING. DRIVE THE CAR AND SEE IF THE NOISE GETS WORSE WHEN YOU MAKE TURNS....CV JOINT GOOD LUCK............

On some cars, the abs sensors may read off of a tone ring on the cv joint.

how to fit cv joint on ford galaxy

pull real real hard it will come

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

I just changed the outer CV joint boot on my 1993 Isuzu Trooper. This is a case where the popular Haynes manual is very poorly written. I will put here an overview of the job and then a link to a description. This job requires a floor jack and wheel stands: Jacking strategy: Block both rear wheels. Support front of car with jack stands at the frame. I use plywood squares to avoid metal-on-metal skidding. You need to have the floor jack and a block of wood available for lifting and positioning the lower suspension A-frame. You need the floor jack when re-assembling the suspension. Here is a dis-assembly overview: 1. This is a way to remove the entire half-axle from the car without disassembling the differential. You can replace the inner CV-joint boot or the outer CV-joint boot. 2. You have to get the outer part of the half-axle free from the brake disk and drive hub. You have to unbolt and support the brake caliper, then separate both ball joints. The axle is held by a circular clip in the center of the front hub assembly. When the circlip is removed, you slide the brake disk and kingpost off of the splined drive axle. 3. You have to release the inner part of the half-axle by un-clamping the inner cv joint boot and popping out a retaining ring. This is a 3-inch diameter round wire ring you can feel. It holds the balls and cage into the outer cup. This part of the job exposes the inner CV-joint. Clean up before removing the inner boot. 4. Then the entire half-axle slides out as a floppy two hand lift. The inner part of the axle comes out with the boot and the greasy cv joint ball and cage all together. 5. Both CV-boots slide off the same inner end of the half-shaft. The inner CV-joint balls and cage are held by a circlip just like the outer end of the half shaft. Remove the circlip, slide off the greasy balls and cage, remove boot clamps and slide off the boots. 6. This job exposes greasy parts that need to stay clean. Have plenty of clean newspaper and rags. Remove loose grit before opening the joints. http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/ Removing the entire axle shaft requires dropping the entire front axle assembly, in order to release the axle shafts. It is much easier to service boots on-vehicle using the pull-over boots manufactured by Mecatech. Unfortunately that's the only company I know of that makes boots which can be installed over the end of your axle shafts - and you have to order directly because I don't know of any retailers which carry them - but being able to change a CV boot in 20 minutes start to finish, without using some lame split boot, is great.

Check the air filter is not clogged. Get a garage to read the fault codes and fix it.

Because of the complexity of this kind of job, it is strongly suggested that you buy a repair manual that explains it in detail. You need to loosen the axle nut with the car on the ground, raise the car, remove the wheel, unbolt the lower ball joint, tie rod end stud, strut lower through bolts, remove the brake caliper, then you can tap the CV shaft stud back and pull the spindle assembly free of the CV shaft. The driver side CV shaft can then be popped out of the transmission. The passenger side CV shaft has a carrier bearing with three bolts holding the shaft to the bearing. Do not try to take the bracket off the engine, it is not necessary. Installation is the reverse of removal.

There are some kits available for some cars, but not many.

They make no real noise. Have themn inspected by a professional if you suspect they are worn. There is no real noise they make, but any noise from the front end could result in bad things. So, if you hear any noise, I recommend that you go get it checked out. One thing I do know that they will tell you though, when your car is up in the air, try grabbing ahold of the bottom and top of the outside of the tire and try moving the tire back and forth gently. If there is ANY play, chances are, something needs to be replaced. sometimes they will make a popping sound while turning.

The CV joints on a 1993 Mercury Villager can be replaced by removing the front tires and the brake caliber. Next, the rotor, tie rod, and bottom ball joint must be removed. Then, a pry bar can be sued to pry the CV joint away from its housing.

If it is making a lot of grinding and popping noises then it needs to be replaced. If you don't you will be going down the road and the joint will seize then break. This will most likely cause the wheel to separate (break) from the rest of the car and you will loose control. This is really a serious issue for you, your passengers, and those around you. Good luck. Brad.

possible bad TPS, IAC, or ECT sensors

If u turn the wheel 2 the right & accelerate hard & hear a loud clickng noise - its BAD DO the same thing turning the wheel 2 the LEFT also & repeat.

A constant vibration while driving and the faster you drive the worse the vibration. If grab ahold of the cv shaft and try to shake it, if it moves it is bad

You normally have to remove the wheel fron the strut. My son say it is possible to remove the tie rods ends and so the brake drum will turn out far enought to remove and install a new cv joint axle. Go to your local library for a repair manual

it makes a knocking sound when u turn the wheels.

just pull it hard out the box. If it won't come pull it and try to give it a tap out or lever it at the same time.

You should use the hi-temp wheel bearing grease and not the off brands I might add.

when it clicks when you turn a corner is one...

also you can feel slop when you first take off feel and hear a tap.

if you get under the car and grab the cv and try to move it back and forth it will move around a lot.