CV Joints

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

I just changed the outer CV joint boot on my 1993 Isuzu Trooper. This is a case where the popular Haynes manual is very poorly written. I will put here an overview of the job and then a link to a description. This job requires a floor jack and wheel stands: Jacking strategy: Block both rear wheels. Support front of car with jack stands at the frame. I use plywood squares to avoid metal-on-metal skidding. You need to have the floor jack and a block of wood available for lifting and positioning the lower suspension A-frame. You need the floor jack when re-assembling the suspension. Here is a dis-assembly overview: 1. This is a way to remove the entire half-axle from the car without disassembling the differential. You can replace the inner CV-joint boot or the outer CV-joint boot. 2. You have to get the outer part of the half-axle free from the brake disk and drive hub. You have to unbolt and support the brake caliper, then separate both ball joints. The axle is held by a circular clip in the center of the front hub assembly. When the circlip is removed, you slide the brake disk and kingpost off of the splined drive axle. 3. You have to release the inner part of the half-axle by un-clamping the inner cv joint boot and popping out a retaining ring. This is a 3-inch diameter round wire ring you can feel. It holds the balls and cage into the outer cup. This part of the job exposes the inner CV-joint. Clean up before removing the inner boot. 4. Then the entire half-axle slides out as a floppy two hand lift. The inner part of the axle comes out with the boot and the greasy cv joint ball and cage all together. 5. Both CV-boots slide off the same inner end of the half-shaft. The inner CV-joint balls and cage are held by a circlip just like the outer end of the half shaft. Remove the circlip, slide off the greasy balls and cage, remove boot clamps and slide off the boots. 6. This job exposes greasy parts that need to stay clean. Have plenty of clean newspaper and rags. Remove loose grit before opening the joints. http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/ Removing the entire axle shaft requires dropping the entire front axle assembly, in order to release the axle shafts. It is much easier to service boots on-vehicle using the pull-over boots manufactured by Mecatech. Unfortunately that's the only company I know of that makes boots which can be installed over the end of your axle shafts - and you have to order directly because I don't know of any retailers which carry them - but being able to change a CV boot in 20 minutes start to finish, without using some lame split boot, is great.

Check the air filter is not clogged. Get a garage to read the fault codes and fix it.

Because of the complexity of this kind of job, it is strongly suggested that you buy a repair manual that explains it in detail. You need to loosen the axle nut with the car on the ground, raise the car, remove the wheel, unbolt the lower ball joint, tie rod end stud, strut lower through bolts, remove the brake caliper, then you can tap the CV shaft stud back and pull the spindle assembly free of the CV shaft. The driver side CV shaft can then be popped out of the transmission. The passenger side CV shaft has a carrier bearing with three bolts holding the shaft to the bearing. Do not try to take the bracket off the engine, it is not necessary. Installation is the reverse of removal.

There are some kits available for some cars, but not many.

They make no real noise. Have themn inspected by a professional if you suspect they are worn. There is no real noise they make, but any noise from the front end could result in bad things. So, if you hear any noise, I recommend that you go get it checked out. One thing I do know that they will tell you though, when your car is up in the air, try grabbing ahold of the bottom and top of the outside of the tire and try moving the tire back and forth gently. If there is ANY play, chances are, something needs to be replaced. sometimes they will make a popping sound while turning.

The CV joints on a 1993 Mercury Villager can be replaced by removing the front tires and the brake caliber. Next, the rotor, tie rod, and bottom ball joint must be removed. Then, a pry bar can be sued to pry the CV joint away from its housing.

If it is making a lot of grinding and popping noises then it needs to be replaced. If you don't you will be going down the road and the joint will seize then break. This will most likely cause the wheel to separate (break) from the rest of the car and you will loose control. This is really a serious issue for you, your passengers, and those around you. Good luck. Brad.

possible bad TPS, IAC, or ECT sensors

If u turn the wheel 2 the right & accelerate hard & hear a loud clickng noise - its BAD DO the same thing turning the wheel 2 the LEFT also & repeat.

A constant vibration while driving and the faster you drive the worse the vibration. If grab ahold of the cv shaft and try to shake it, if it moves it is bad

You normally have to remove the wheel fron the strut. My son say it is possible to remove the tie rods ends and so the brake drum will turn out far enought to remove and install a new cv joint axle. Go to your local library for a repair manual

it makes a knocking sound when u turn the wheels.

just pull it hard out the box. If it won't come pull it and try to give it a tap out or lever it at the same time.

You should use the hi-temp wheel bearing grease and not the off brands I might add.

when it clicks when you turn a corner is one...

also you can feel slop when you first take off feel and hear a tap.

if you get under the car and grab the cv and try to move it back and forth it will move around a lot.

The 2000 Ram had u joints, not cv joints at the front axle.

i want to know what cu is used for

Remove the wheel. Using a punch, tap out the dented nut locking ring. Remove the axle nut. Remove the cotter pin and nut on the steering rod and pop the steering rod off using a suitable puller or try tapping on the nut (not the threads). Remove the two ball joint nuts and bolts (17MM) Pull the assembly off the half shaft and tie it off to the side. Give a good hard yank on the old shaft to pull it out of the tranny. Install the new half-shaft in reverse order.

Buy a split boot from the parts store- that way you won't have to remove the shaft.

As long as you have the half shaft out, why not replace it since there is probably some damage to it from having a damaged boot?

actually that was the problem but thanks for trying

Jack up vehicle. Remove wheel. Remove rotor. Disconnect lower ball joint. Disconnect tie rod end. Disconnect stabilizer end link. Remove axle nut. Pull steering knuckle out and remove outer CV joint from knuckle. Use a crowbar and snap inner CV out of transmission. Reverse to install.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

1997 Honda accord special addition

i want the important information to my CV to go studing out plz y'r help

herry up

chances are if your boot was ripped on your cv its usually toast and the bearings can be put back in and it be rebuilt but if dirt got into it from a torn boot its usually not worth the hassle of rebuilding just buy a new one

you must remove the caliper for the brakes,pull off the rotor,remove the axle nut which is a 36mm socket also unbolt the bottom shock,unhook bottom ball joint, my self i took off the whole spindle there is much more room to slide the axle out.now there are six bolts on the in side of the axle the socket size is a 15mm with a long extention if you don't have a air tools loosen the bolts on the end of the axle first before you pull of the spindle so the axle wouldn't turn on you so easy,its not that hard just use common sence