Distributors and Distributor Caps

Don't loosen the small clamp before removing the old distributor! Make sure your engine is on Top Dead Center #1 (TDC). Easiest way to do that is to pull of the cap off of the distributer that is currently in the motor. Rotate the crankshaft until the "v" notch in the pulley is straight up, and lines up with where the 2 halves of the engine bolt together. Look at where the rotor is pointing in relation to the edge of the distributor (if there is a plastic cap under the rotor, take off the rotor and remove that plastic cover, then put the rotor back on (note the notch in the rotor...it only fits on the shaft one-and-only-one way. On the top edge of the distributor housing, there *should* be a small notch that indicates cylinder #1. Be sure to look for a small notch stamped in the top of the housing edge, not the large squared-off notch that positions the distributor cap in correct postion. If the rotor is lined up with the little notch, you are at TCD #1. If the rotor is pointing 180 degrees from the notch, rotate the engine 1 complete revolution, lining up the 'v' notch again, and your rotor should be pointing to the little notch in the distributor. Now, you can take the 13mm nut and washer off of the distributor bracket. Carefully twist back and forth and pull up on the whole distributor. Sometimes you need to very carefully get a flat screw driver and pry up underneath the distrib clamp and the engine case. Just be sure not to gouge anything. After you pull out the old distributor, take a look down the whole. Make sure that the little spring is down in the middle of the distributor drive. Sometimes it can come out and land in there sideways, which would be bad news if you stuck the new one in and didn't notice. Take a look at the sideways slot of the distributor drive down in the whole also. It matches up with the bottom of the distributor, but only goes one way. So you can only put it back together on way too, but it helps to see how it works...the slot is slightly off center, and so is the bottom part of the distributor. There is a rubber o-ring that must be replaced when you put in the new distributor. Don't use the old one, or it will most likely leak. I usually cut off the old o-ring next so that the clamp comes off easier. Loosen the clamp now, but take care to note the position of the clamp in relation to that little notch in the top of the distributors top-outer-edge. Try your best to line the clamp up the same way on the new distributor, and snug it down so it doesn't adjust and slip off alignment when putting in the new distributor. Finally, put on your new o-ring, and lube it up with some fresh oil so it isn't dry, and wipe out the whole with a rag and lube it up too with some fresh oil. Now, you can slide the new distributor back in. Be careful not to force the new o-ring too hard when it gets that far. Keep twisting back and forth and pushing down until the hold in the bracket is about to get to the stud that it bolts to. So you are now about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from being all the way in. Be sure now to put the new rotor on and have it point toward the notch in the distributor edge. This is the same way the old one came apart, right? Wiggle the rotor back and forth, and as you push down the final fractions of an inch. When that slot ligns up with the distributor drive, you will feel it slip down into place, and the bracket and distributor should be all the way down as far as they can go, and of course, the bracket is placed over the stud so it can be bolted back down. You shouldn't be able to turn the rotor much as it will be locked into the drive shaft when it is correctly in place. Put the nut and washer back on and tighten. You are going to have to make sure the point gap is correct while you have the cap off. Make sure that the plastic cover is on before you put the rotor back on. Then you can put the cap back on, and you should be set. There is a big notch in the cap that needs to fit with the notch in the distributor housing. Now you need to set your ignition timing. If you take the old distributor apart the way I described and were careful aligning the clamp right, it should be pretty close. Oh, and hey, don't take out the distributor drive ever. It has to be aligned correctly which can be a pain, so leave it all in there.

A distributor is a person employed in spreading information about products. A distributor brings services to the Company's clients in the matters of purchasing the Company's products, captivates for the Company new prospects as concerns the spreading activity.

The distributor sends a spark to the proper spark plug at the proper time. To do this, the points open and close a circuit to the coil to generate the high voltage spark. This is fed to the rotor which is rotated by the cam shaft and then sends this voltage to each of the spark plugs as the engine turns. Synchronization of this is done with a timing light which will send the spark to cylinder #1 as it comes to top dead center in the fire cycle.

if there is sparks u need to check and see it its coming from the plug wires that's about the only thing that can spark without blowing a fuse

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

a good mechanic should charge at the most between $90 to $100 labor.

You must listen real good to do this right.

Take the distributor cap loose so you can raise it up and see the rotor. Now get someone to help you with this. Take the #1 spark plug out, That will be the first plug up front on the driver's side head. Now put you finger over the plug hole and get your helper to bumb the engine over a little at a time until you fill air blow out from under your finger and as soon as it quites blowing pay attention to were the rotor is pointing in the distributor and mark it with something so you can see the mark when you set the cap back on the dist. And that terminal on the cap will be where the #1 wire goes.

You may have to bumb the engine over a few times until you get the fill of it to get it right. Then wire it clockwise on the cap. If you need more help then let me know.

There is a notch in the distributor housing. It can only go one way.

coil---3---4

pack--2---6

plug---1---5

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The spark plug firing order is ( 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 )

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The engine cylinder / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front

The firing order for all air-cooled volkswagens is 1-4-3-2, when the cap is removed, the notch indicates the #1 rotor position, assuming your distributer is close to the original.

The Filko CS-3 is a coolant sensor for GM vehicles in the 80's

set to zero degrees base timing

the computer controls actual timing

All V8 Chevrolet's firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. 1,3,5,7 is on the left bank and 2,4,6,8 is on the right bank. The distributor turns clockwise.

we must prefer a white coloured cap (or any other light coloured) because it doesn't absorb heat and we feel cool

see if theres spark from the coil first not one of the spark plugs possible has some spark may have weak coilif there is no spark coming from coil its possible the ignition module went out it is a common problem with fordsits the grey thing on the side of the distibutor it has two screws holding it they are 5.5mm it may be necessary to move the distibutor if so mark the location and then loosen hold down and turn it with removing distributor from engine after you unbolt the module you will pull it down to remove it from distdon't pull it towards you you could break distributor just push down you can get them at any auto part store or dealer fairly inexpennsive...

The 3.8 liter V6 engine has a distributor cap and rotor in a 1997 Ford Thunderbird

If you look at the connector on the plug end you will see some letters stamped on the side of the connector. Find the letters A and C. Now make up a short jumper wire with ends on it that will fit tight over the A and C pins inside of the connector and hook those two together where it won't fall out. tape it all up and your done.

That 4 wire connector is for the electronic spark controll timing. But you don't need it on that engine. Have a good day.

what is the firing order for 1997 dodge ram v8

Clockwise. to make realy sure take the distubator cap off and watch the rotor, while someone else spins the motor over.

Recommendation: 60k miles for tune up and timing belt change.

Take the #1 spark plug out, Put your finger over the hole and get someone to bump the engine over with the key a little at a time until you fill air blow out from under your finger, then stop bumping the engine over. Remove the distributor cap and where ever the rotor is pointing at when you set the cap back on that will be #1/ where the #1 plug wire goes. Then wire it clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

The driver's side head front to rear is 1-3-5-7

The other head front to rear is 2-4-6-8

there are several reasons this could happen.distribator cap and wires spark plugs may need to be replaced.there could be oil getting thru and on some of them. if your car doesn't have an electronic ignition the cylinoid could be bad.

i found this answer under a different question which was answered by clay, all i did was copy and paste. but this will work for you too. You will have to find the #1, connection. To do that, remove the #1 spark plug, and the distributor cap. It is located drivers side, front of engine. Remove the coil wire and turn the engine over until the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), on the compression stroke. You can feel the compression with your thumb over the hole. A long screwdriver inserted in the hole that hits the top of the piston will help to find TDC. Turn the engine by hand, if you insert a screwdriver. Once you find the TDC, look where the rotor is pointing. That is the #1 connection. The direction the rotor turns will tell you what is next,(8). Firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3.

According to the book it's 1,3,4,2