Dodge Dakota

A good place to look is Auto Zone. com. You will have to log in but the info is worth it. The site has instructions and pictures on many of DIY things for your truck. And you can print the instructions to take with you.

I don't know, but I be you can find the answer here:

http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

A company called painless wire harness Auto wrecking/salvage yards are also very good options if the harness doesn't need to be new.

Bring your timing mark up to top dead centre then drop your distibutor in to the block linning up your rotor on the distributor to were your number one spark plug lead will sit make sure you have enough movement for advance and retard to make sure of this you have to bush the intake manifold all the way to the head if you dont have the movement you are one notch out on the distributor remove and re set if it doesnt fire up you are a 180 degres out so take your number one spark plug lead of and put it to were number six lead sits and work your timing out from there 1 5 3 6 2 4 firring order

center nut 180-200 ft lbs. put wheel on ground with tire on for resistance. may be someone hold brakes on.

Dodge Dakota Turn Signal Hazard Light Troubleshooting (check in this order):

· Check Fuse(s)

· Check Bulb(s)

· Check Flasher Relay

· Check Turn Signal Switch in steering column

· Check Hazard Light Switch

· Check license plate light bulb and wiring

· Check all wiring harnesses and wiring for shorts

Most likely its the fuse or a burnt bulb breaking the circuit. See sources and related links below for bulb information. Sometimes the license plate and/or the trailer hitch is wired into other circuits and can cause issues in other areas. Sometimes its wires grounding out somewhere on the vehicle. See sources and related links below for bulb information. See owner's manual for location and identification of fuses.

More times than not, it turns out to be the TPS sensor

The fuel pump module consisting of pump, filter, and fuel level sending unit is located inside the fuel tank. The fuel tank must be removed from the truck to access it.

5W30

The evaporator case drain that passes thru the firewall has lost it's seal. There was a technical bulletin about this within DODGE, not a recall type thing. There also is alot of discussion on the different Dakota forums about the problem and suggested fixes.

The best (the one that worked on my 2002 Dak) was to fit a 3/4" copper street L plumbing fitting into the original plastic drain tube with epoxy to hold it. I did it from under the vehicle (truck on it's wheels no jack/ramps needed. I had to remove the heat shield covering the drain tube to get the fitting in, then had to tweak the ear on the shield that covers the drain tube when you put the shield back on. worked for me!

4.5 quarts

What ?????????????

The check engine light will flash any stored codes after the ignition switch is cycled twice from 'on' to 'off' and then back to 'on', all within 5 seconds. The 'start of a test' code (88) is flashed first. Eight flashes, pause, eight flashes. Any stored fault codes will flash after this and all will be only two digits each, displayed in the same manner as the "start of a test" code. That is, a series of flashes for the first number in the code, a pause, followed by a series of flashes for the second number. All codes will be displayed in numerical order, except for the 'start of a test' code (88) and the 'end of test' code which will be 55.

Cylinder #2 Misfire

Check the timing on it along with your plugs and wires.The backfire is from gas not burning completely and ignites in the exhaust.Most likely its the timing which can be set by turning the distrib very very little at a time till prob is solved.

The steering column is connect with a shaft that runs from rack and pinion to steering column. A short shaft sticks out of rack and pinion and is attached to shaft with 1 bolt that goes thru the coupler. Usally hid under a boot that goes around the shaft.

After the nut is properly fastened back on use a punch or flat screwdriver with a hammer and repinch nut.

A scan tool is required. The distributor is "zeroed" with the aid of the scan tool. This can not be done with a timing light.

A scan tool is required. The distributor is "zeroed" with the aid of the scan tool. This can not be done with a timing light.

A "hook" tool is a best bet. It's like a long dull ice pick with a thick shaft that has the last inch or so of the tool near the tip bent over at a right angle. Remove the clamp, work the point of the tool slowly and carefully under the end of the stuck hose, and continue to work it around under the stuck end of the hose. With a bit of patience and some effort, you'll be able to free the hose from the hose boss and get it off. Work safely and work smart, and you'll have it off in no time. Links below have pictures.

Check the coolant level. You might just need a little extra anti-freeze. Thermostat may need replaced I just went through the same thing on my 98. If bleeding the air out of the system does not work try this. With the truck running check the temp of the coolant lines going to and from the heater core. (about 1-1/4" in diameter hoses that go to your firewall.) As you face the engine the left hose is the inlet hose and the right is the outlet hose. If the inlet hose is warm-hot to touch and the outlet hose is cool then you may have some blockage in the heater core. Now turn your heater fan off or to low speed and check the outlet hose again. If the temp is rising the you still have some flow through the core and may be able to flush the gunk out. I went to the hardware store and purchased a female garden hose replacement end that would fit a hose with a 5/8" ID. Take off the clamp that you would secure the hose with and just use the barb end to insert into your heater core hose. With the car off and the engine cool remove the right outlet hose from the waterpump. Then the left hose can be split at the union fitting that is about half ways to the heater core. Now you can try to flush the core. Insert the hose barb that you have purchased into the right outlet hose and move the left inlet hose away from the engine so that you don't spray water on the block or manifold. Turn the water on and flush the core. You will probably see some grey water come out of the inlet hose. Run till clear. Turn off the water. Remove the hose from the outlet hose and move to the inlet hose. Flush again with the water running in the opposite direction till the water is clear. I had to do this about 3 times till the core was clean. I did use hot water but I don't think that is a must. After you are done flushing replace the hoses and add coolant to the radiator till full. Start the engine and let it idle till the the thermostat opens. You should see the coolant rise and then fall in the radiator neck as the air is bleeding out of the system, replenish the coolant as it goes down. . While the system is bleeding you should be able to feel the outlet hose get warm. If it is you should have heat. Good luck and be careful.

The fuel filter is integral the the fuel pump module located inside the fuel tank. To replace the fuel filter, you must replace the entire fuel pump module (not cheap, so it's a 'last resort' repair and hopefully not the source of your problem). The filters are designed with a fairly massive amount of surface area and are usually unlikely to become plugged during normal, everyday use, so have your fuel pressure and output checked before doing that repair.

Sounds like you have a (604) overdrive transmission. If so your transmission is in "limp in mode" that means it is stuck in second gear. a protection device built into the trans when faults occour. You will need to have someone read the codes set in the transmission. I would be happy to tell you what codes are when read On my '91... I added tranny fluid, and the problem was solved. I put a heavy transmission fluid in that's made a slipping transmission. Someone has to look at it so see if that's what it is. If it is you could save getting a new transmission. Sounds like you may have been running it without enough fluid and may have caused some damage.

1 nm is 1 Newton.meter, which is 1 Joule. This equals 0.7376 ft.lbf

Fuse or dimmer switch is the only answer i can think of if lights come on but just won't go from high to low or visa versa

if the ignition is cycled, driver's seat belt is unbuckled for

more than 10 seconds and the vehicle speed is greater

than 5 mph (8 km/h).

The Enhanced Warning System (BeltAlert) can be enabled

or disabled by your authorized dealer or by

following these steps:

NOTE: The following steps must occur within the first

60 seconds of the ignition switch being turned to the ON

or START position. DaimlerChrysler does not recommend

deactivating the Enhanced Warning System

(BeltAlert).

1. With all doors closed and the ignition switch in any

position except On or Start, buckle the driver's seat belt.

2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait

for the Seat Belt Warning Light to turn off.

3. Within 60 seconds of turning the ignition switch to the

ON position, unbuckle and then re-buckle the driver's

seat belt at least three times within 10 seconds, ending

with the seat belt buckled.

NOTE: Watch for the Seat Belt Warning Light to turn on

while unbuckling and off while re-buckling the seat belt.

It may be necessary to retract the seat belt.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. A

single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully

completed the programming.

The Enhanced Warning System (BeltAlert) can be reactivated

by repeating this procedure.

NOTE: Although the Enhanced Warning System

(BeltAlert) has been deactivated, the Seat Belt Warning

Light will continue to illuminate while the driver's seat

belt remains unbuckled.