Dodge Durango

You're probably talking about an "inertia switch" - sorry, I'm not sure if anyone besides Ford uses them for sure. Your owner's manual should tell you.

Assumption is the dash is probably same as a 2003 on which we worked today. Before you start, give serious consideration you have the tools, some basic knowledge of the various parts, and plenty of time. This is a project, once we started, that I had second thoughts about maybe having used the dealer.

The second part is what you are trying to do/repair, as much of the under-dash can be reached with minimal work. Only if your really have to remove a major portion will this become a "project".

I lost heat to defrost/floor, but had dash vents working, fan worked and temp control worked.

First thought was the switch control unit - which was pretty easy - just remove the bezel around the radio/heater controls. If you are looking for the dash panel actuator it is located directly behind the heater control switches, and the actuator can be changed from there.

If it's the defrost actuator, a little more work, but if can be reached with moderate headstands. Located closest to the accelerator pedal. It is covered by a steel plate, and my actuators were held by two screws - not three. One is reachable from floor near pedal, but the other is a bear. We finally drilled a large 5/8 hole through the steel plate for a straight shot to the screw with Phillips screwdriver.

If it is the temp control actuator, it is located to the right of the center console. You can identify it as it has a long metal rod that moves the doors from heat to cold air.

Finally if it is the recirculation actuator, it is behind the dash, on top of the airbox and "IT" needs to have most of dash removed to get to it.

If the actuators work, the flapper doors can be the problem (as in my case) where the shaft had split and the door would fall back to closed position from an open position. Again - complete removal of the dash required!

One of the fellows helping me was an 18 year veteran of auto repair, and for both of us it was our first dash removal. Started at about 11:30 in the morning, and we finally had the flapper door out by about 6:00 PM that evening. Now must wait to order the part, since local Dodge dealer doesn't stock the door.

While one of these reasons "might" be the need for you to remove dash, as we worked, we found so many screws with heads on the inside of the dash. Figured they had been bench assembled, and then the unit was installed as a sub assembly.

Briefly ....... but NOT IN EXACT ORDER OF REMOVAL...........

Remove bezel around radio/heater controls

Remove ash tray

Remove cup holder

Remove plastic panel from below cup holder

Remove both left and right side A pillar grab handle trim

Remove the top dash cover closest to windshield

Remove the padded dash top

Remove instrument bezel and panel

Unbolt and lower steering column ( we eventually removed it)

Remove all plastic panels covering lower portion of dash

CAREFULLY remove air bag on passenger side. (unhook negative battery cable first)

Don't screw this one up - it's probably $1,000 to replace and you DON'T want it

to go off during removal

Need to unplug a lot of plugs - instrument panel, headlight, heater controls, remove radio, glove box light, air bag wiring, etc.

Once you get the stuff stripped, you will find yourself with a large (about 3 inch diameter steel tube running across from side to side. You need to unbolt this from door frames on both side. 3 bolts on driver side, 3 on passenger side. Also need to unbolt the support struts supporting the round tube up near windshield.

Remove/unplug three dash speakers

Unfasten wiring harness from behind metal cross bar.

Remove two bolts at bottom of steel plate behind radio near floor, and two bolts underneath the mount for the stearing column. They are recesed so they are easy to miss.

If you have removed all screws, bolts, steering column nuts, etc. you will be able to rotate the steel cross tube toward you and lift from between front doors. Carefully slide out passenger side door without ripping fabric seats or scratching any door panels with sharp edges of stamped steel components.

Once this is removed, you can unscrew, and disconnect the plastic duct work for the vents, defroster, and side window defrosters.

After removal of all of this, you will have gained access to the top of the air box where you can access the actuator doors for removal/replacement.

Reinstall in reverse order - but keep in mind all the electrical plugs, ground wires, and the many, many plastic panel screws.

A 7 mm small and deep socket, and box/open wrench, Phillips screwdriver, torx screw driver, 10 mm wrench, hammer, very large screwdriver, and a couple of needle nose pliers are needed - along with drill to make hole in metal plate to get to screw. Also a magnet to retrieve both screws and dropped socket heads.

In two cases, we simply had to bust the plastic tab holding defrost duct to dash panel top as there was no way we could get to the screw heads. I'm guessing we easily had 50-60 small 7 mm head screws used to hold plastic panels in place! The back seat was filled with plastic parts, speakers, radio, "A" pillar grab handles, plastic vents, etc. The two top panels for the dash, the facing dash plastic panel, steering column, steel framework behind dash, is stored in the pickup bed. And now we wait for the inexpensive flapper door part to arrive. Hopefully we both remember where all the electrical plugs go, and we manage to find most (probably not all) of the screw locations. In the end, we are also praying the flapper door and actuator motor were the problems.

I have heard of folks saying the cost to do this by a dealer was quoted $1100 to $1500, and had several times thought maybe I should have just taken the truck in to the dealer for repair. I think they probably would have followed the same process to remove everything to get where we are now. Hopefully during the coming week we can get the part, install it and start reassembly.

I cannot stress enough that we really were in over our heads on this one. Had it not been for friend's experience, knowledge and confidence in some of the areas of this process, I think I would have taken it in to dealer.

One thing that might be helpful, is to download the '04 Ram service manual. Unfortunately, it doesn't show a lot of these detailed steps, but gives reference drawing to major parts.

Another Approach:

I had a similar problem with my 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QUAD CAB where the recirculation flapper door was broken and no air would come out of the dash vents. At first, I thought the fan was going out since it was making noise so I pulled the fan from under the glove box and discovered the problem.

The actuator motor had apparently turned too much and broke the flapper door pivot shaft, and a small piece of plastic was flying around inside the fan. Once I removed the plastic, the noise went away and the fan was working fine. I then used a piece of stiff wire to hold the door closed as a temporary solution since I need my AC as it was right in the heat of the summer.

I called the dealer several months later explaining the problem and they immediately knew which part needed to be replaced as they had seen the same thing many times before. They sold me a new duct assembly piece for about $60 that included a new actuator motor and flapper door. I didn't even bother to ask how much they would charge me to replace it. I questioned them a bit about what it took to replace and they made it sound pretty easy, except for the part about removing the dash. I just figured it couldn't be too tough, and I refuse to pay several hundred $ to have someone else do something I can do myself So, I brought the part home and started to research when I found this post.

After reading this post, I nervously started to tackle the project of removing the dash to get at the duct assembly which sits right behind the glove box. About 2 hours into the job of removing the dash, I got to thinking that there must be a simpler way to fix this and I didn't really feel like the idea of tearing the whole truck apart to replace the entire assembly when I knew the problem was just the broken flapper door.

So, I looked closely at the new part and figured out how to remove the actuator and flapper door from the duct assembly. I knew that if this could be done from below the dash through the hole where the fan mounts, I could just replace the flapper and avoid removing the whole dash and duct assembly.

During this process, I discovered the factory defect. As I was testing the actuator to make sure I didn't install it in the wrong position and break the new flapper, I noticed that it appears to rotate a lot more than the 90 degrees it takes to actuate the flapper. The old duct assembly has a single plastic stop on the outside that limits the actuator movement and stops the motor while preventing stress on the flapper door when moved to the closed (non-recirculating) position

The new duct assembly has 2 limit stops, 90 degrees apart which stops the actuator motor at both open and closed positions and prevents any stress on the door. Therefore, because the original part only had a single stop on one side, the door became over-stressed in time and broke when the truck was about 3 years old.

Well, I decided that even though the 2nd stop doesn't exist on the old duct assembly, I could replace the flapper door and hope that it doesn't break again, at least not for a few more years. I figured I could always buy another $60 assembly and take on the dash removal/replacement project another time. I was careful to make sure the actuator motor was in the open (recirculating) position and then installed the door at that position. About 30 minutes later, I was back in business and replaced the parts I had removed attempting to remove the entire dash.

The whole process is pretty simple following these steps:

Remove glove box. Unplug and remove fan assembly under glove box by removing 3 torx head screws.

Reach up into the duct and extract the broken flapper door. Next, turn on the ignition and turn the heater control to recirculate position, making sure the actuator rotates clockwise until it stops.

Then, unplug the actuator connector and 2 Phillips head screws to remove actuator. Remove the white plastic adapter (which plugs into the door pivot shaft and rotates the flapper) from the duct assembly (this is the trickiest part since you have to use 2 hands to remove the connector which snaps into place).

Slide the new flapper door into the duct and re-install the adapter making sure the door is in the open position and the stop tab is 90 degrees clockwise from the plastic limit stop on the duct. Check flapper and adapter stop position by rotating the door counter-clockwise to the closed (non-recirc) position, making sure the stop doesn't prevent the door from closing all the way.

Finally, replace the actuator and 2 screws and plug in the electrical connector. Replace the glove box and fan and away you go.

This entire fix could probably be done in less than an hour, know that I know how easy it is. Next time it breaks, I may just do the same thing (buy the $60 assembly and steal the new flapper door instead of removing the entire dash to replace the entire actuator duct assembly, which is what the dealer would do and will likely charge hundreds for labor. Too bad they won't just sell the flapper door, which is really the only broken part.

Obviously, Dodge knows this is a factory defect since the new duct assembly has been improved, and it may even be covered by the factory warranty. But if it usually doesn't break for the first three years, most owners will have to pay the dealer to fix it. I seriously doubt they would ever recall this part, since it isn't a safety issue.

Under the back seat

There is no cam sensor on the 1995 year engine. GM. did not use a cam sensor on that year.

Who makes a suspension lift for a Dodge Durango?

The 2003 Dodge Durango has 39.8 in. of front head room.

The 2012 Dodge Durango has 17.2 cu.ft. of cargo capacity with all of its seats in place.

The battery is under the passenger front seat. Put the seat in the full forward position and remove the cover over the battery. You can than undo the cables and hold down bolt. the battery will now lift out.

Is it low on Gas or Deisel? if it is that will trip the check gauge light. Or if you ever run the fuel low. It needs time to reset it self.

The is commonly an issue with the compressor and its cycling. Standard repairs may be as simple as recharging or as complicated as a full replacement of the part.

on the right side of the remote near the panic button there is a place to stick a slotted screw driver or something to pry it open. work your way around the case splitting it open and replace the battery.

The 2012 Dodge Durango has a drag coefficient of 0.35 Cd.

bank 1 is the side of the engine with the #1 cylinder..chevys--1357..fords--1234..of course 4 cyl engines do not apply

no. do it yourself! find it in the book lazy

No, the Durango bolt pattern is smaller. I already tried.

The 2006 Mazda MAZDA6 has front wheel drive.

"0" play in lower ball joints

To replace the brake light on a 2001 Dodge Durango the light lens must be removed. It is held on by a clip on one side and a hinge on another. It opens like a door to access the brake light housing.

First, obtain a replacement water pump based on your make and model from your local parts store - typically costs around $25, a new gasket, a small tube of silicone water pump sealant. NOTE use only water pump sealant for this purpose. Second, assemble the tools you will need to do the work. That consists of, as a minimum, a screwdriver, small wrenches (small 1/4" drive metric sockets are preferred), a 1x2 wood pry bar about 3 feet long, a torque wrench, a drop light & a rubber strap wrench. Raise the hood. Locate the water pump on the left front of the engine as you stand in front of the car. It is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. Remove the small plastic "guard" that is attached to the top of the water pump with one bolt. This guard prevents fingers from accidentally being pulled into the belt that drives the water pump. The guard has the serpentine belt routing pattern on it. Set the guard and its bolt aside. Remove the end of the radiator hose that connects to the water pump and drain the upper engine coolant to a container placed immediately below the hose. This may be as much as a gallon of liquid. Take care to not allow the coolant to become fouled with engine dirt and debris. NOTE: this is a good time to replace the old radiator hose. Take the wood pry bar and set the lower end under the idler pulley that maintains tension on the serpentine accessory belt. Use the inner fender panel immediately in front of the coolant reservoir as a fulcrum. Lift the tension idler just enough so that slack is sufficient in the belt to remove the belt from the grooved pulley adjacent to the water pump (Note the smooth backside of the serpentine belt drives the water pump pulley). Leave the belt otherwise engaged with other pulleys while working on the water pump. When the belt has been removed from the water pump pulley you are ready to begin to disassemble the water pump. Remove four bolts from the smooth bell-shaped pulled that drives the water pump. Remove the bell-shaped pulley and set aside with the four bolts. Take a permanent marker and put a "witness" mark on both parts of the water pump housing for realignment during reassembly. Remove six bolts in an annular pattern around the perimeter of the water pump. Take care to not lose any of these bolts in the area of the chassis below as they will be almost impossible to locate if you do. When all bolts have been removed, tap the outer edge of the water pump housing lightly with a wrench or small hammer to loosen the sealant at the gasket. Set the six bolts aside for reassembly. The water pump should loosen easily and drop into your hand. Inspect the surface of the remaining water pump housing for any remaining gasket material. If there is any remaining gasket material NOTE: DO NOT SCRAPE WITH A STEEL TOOL! The water pump housing is aluminum and if it is gouged with a steel tool, it will leak. Carefully remove the excess gasket material with a plastic or wood tool. Remove any sealant remaining on the mating surface. Once the gasket area is clean, take the new gasket and find the correct orientation to the bolt holes on the water pump. The holes are not exactly equally spaced and will sometimes require several tries to find the exact matching orientation. spread the water pump silicone sealant on the new water pump gasket surface evenly and set the new gasket in it with all holes aligned. Note the witness mark on the old pump housing for proper alignment. Spread silicone sealant evenly on the surface of the engine mounted part of the water pump and install the new pump in the proper orientation and install the six bolts finger tight in each of the bolt holes. Begin to tighten the six bolts in a criss cross pattern but do not torque to full tightness until they are all snug. Then tighten each of the bolts to the required torque value (between 18 and 22 inch pounds depending on model - consult the factory specifications). NOTE THAT TOO MUCH TORQUE WILL RESULT IN STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE HOUSING! Too little will allow the pump to leak at the gasket and will cause wear in the pulley shaft. If the threads are stripped, that is a major problem that may be beyond your ability to repair. It may require replacement of the engine-mounted portion of the water pump housing. Once the six bolts are properly torqued, reinstall the bell shaped pulley with its four bolts. These bolts have to be torqued also, but are not as critical since they thread into a steel flange on the pulley shaft. This is where you may have to use the strap wrench to hold the bell-shaped pulley while you tighten the four bolts. Using the pry bar to lift the idler pulley, reinstall the serpentine belt in its proper pattern, making sure that the inside grooves are in their proper alignment with the crankshaft pulley and other pulleys on the engine and other accessories. Once the belt has been properly positioned, release the idler pulley to put the proper tension on the serpentine belt. Reinstall the radiator hose to the water pump housing. It is preferred to use a stainless steel screw clamp rather than the spring clamps that are original equipment because they are easier to remove and install. Reinstall the plastic keeper above the bell shaped pulley. Pour the drined coolant that was originally removed into the reservoir that is located on the left inner fender panel. You may wish to replace all of the coolant in the system. If so, wait until this work has been successfully completed, then drain the entire system and replace as per manufacturer's specifications. Remove the radiator cap to allow excess air to excape and to avoid an air "lock up" when the engine is started. Remove all tools and parts from the area. Leave the hood up. Start the engine and allow it to run for 5-10 minutes. Visually check the area under the water pump for evidence of leaks. If none are seen after 10 minutes, reinstall the radiator cap and take the car for a short drive. Check again for evidence of leaks. If any coolant is leaking around the water pump, you will have to tighten the water pump housing bolts, by first loosening them slightly and re-torqueing them. Once you are sure there are no leaks, put your tools away and pat yourself on the back. You have just saved yourself between $400 and $600 for a garage to do the same thing. If the serpentine belt became wet during this work, you may have to dry it off (without engine running) and apply some belt dressing - not too much - to it to prevent slippage. This job takes between 2 and 3 hours for a novice to do this work depending on your skill and patience. The next time you do it, you should be able to do it in about 1 hour. Good luck.

find wiring harness in the back of the vehicle the same one that goes to the tail lights wire it through that wiring harness use test light to make sure you arein the right wiring harness

4 litres

The Dodge Durango was introduced in 1998, therefore this question cannot be answered as is. However, the 1998 durango had a curb weight of 4689 lbs.