Dodge Grand Caravan

the resistors get very hot, so they put them in the heater ducts so they get airflow when the fan is on, look for a male 4 prong plug held to the heater with 2 screws. the wires from your fan switch should go to it.

You have to drop the transmission or pull the engine. remove the flexplate and oil pan.

Yes, the ECU is per default configured for supporting all the assessories available for that model. If it does not in your particular car either the ECU of the idle speed control valve is defective. Best regards Torben Machon

This is a tough one and I suggest you phone your ex and hopefully they will meet with you. Everyone should get the opportunity to explain themselves. It is also a sign of immaturity in a way. None of us are perfect, and he/she should at least give you the proper opportunity to explain yourself. Good luck Marcy It's your ex. Move on if you really didn't.

Yes You can use MS-5931. MS-5931 is for all pre 1998 year Chrysler.

on the left side of the steering column is a knob that controls the lights. Pull it of push it until the beeping stops

I have repaired both electric windows in my 1988 caravan. There is a white plastic track that the motor pulls and pushed and this is what opens and closes the window. It is located inside the door behind the door panels. Usually the track breaks, with age and you need to replace them.

Well, answer 1 didn't seem to make much sense...go to the link below to see a picture of a typical abacus

It depends on how well the engine was maintained during its life (oil changes & tune ups). As well as how it was driven in particular. These things seem to last near forever. Mine has at least 170,000 miles on it (I'm guessing meter reads 70,000: true milage unknown) and is slowly dying. They are die-hards

If you have a manual transmission the stop button on the clutch switch may have broken apart, replace the stop button to fix the cruise control. You can get one at any Nissan Dealership.

You replace them. It's quite simple and involves only removing the brake caliper and caliper mounting.

You can get them machined, but the cost of that is getting higher than just buying good used ones now. -Most wreckers yards will sell you good ones for about 18-20

That is the metal of your exhaust system, most likely a heat shield contracting as it cools. As the metal heats up it expands and as it cools it contracts or becomes smaller so the sound you hear is the metal moving as it does this.

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? If not you may have to continue the bleeding process Try opening the RR bleeder screw-let fluid gravity feed into a container filled with fluid and depress brake pedal about 3/4 of the way probably 3-4 times closing bleeder between pumps and continue with other wheels LR-RF-LF

the ac control head needs recalibrated. to do this, start the engine, set fan to max, control to panel vents, temp to cold, the press and hold the top left and bottom left buttons at the same time until all light s come on. then release buttons and they will start to cycle around. the air will also change from hot to cold, up to down. Should last about 2 minutes. when done only one light should be flashing. press that button and you are done. If more than just the top left button is flashing at the end then there is a problem with the ac system

what can be wrong when 98 Chevy lumina over heats but radiator is new?

please help?

first off disconnect the battery and then the wires to the silinoid switch on the top of the starter.remember where the smaller ones go. 6 or 8 cylinder the starter is on the pass side and you will have to acess it from underneath.2 9/16th head bolts i think

2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 with 5.3 liter engine, possible gen III. 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 with 5.3 liter engine, possible gen III.

Without looking at the specs, would guess up around 100 foot pounds.

Its either of these: fuel filter, O2 sensors both completely dead or pump is failing. I would try in that order as this is the order of least expensive and least work to most. I think the fuel pump is in the fuel tank.

GO BUY A NEW IGNITION SWITCH AND KEY SET TO INSTALL IN THE COLUMN. It's not that simple smart#@$! If anyone can answer the question intelligently I would appreciate it.

Try warming the car by letting it run for a short time, but not letting it get hot. Also something like WD40 sprayed down in there overnight will help.

Never Use WD40 unless you are absolutely sure the sensor is U/S. The silicon in wd40 will adversely affect the O2 sensor operation.

There is no drain plug but a condensation drain tube located on the passenger side firewall or just below ( rubber tube sticking out ) It may be plugged and a coat hanger or compressed air will open it. Your heater core may also be leaking if there is also coolant on the floorboard. If so it will need to be replaced.

Under the hood, they are plugged into the Intake plenum by the MAF.

you have to take it to a shop that can professionally drain the refrigerant from the compressor. It is very hazardous stuff and CAN NOT be drained into the air, it has to be captured. Then you just have to unbolt the compressor. You may have to remove the radiator first.

If the damage is minimal then try and remove the door panel so you can access the internal workings of the door and try to get the catch mechanism to release that way. Hope This Helps.

Pulled from: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071001131029AAvU8LI&show=7

Don't hit it or kick it or push it or pull it...this is an easy one! When you pull up on your handle, these two arms on the handle in turn push two levers, one lever will pull on the right side rod and the other lever will pull on the left rod. After time these levers start to get bent out of shape from use. Eventually, when you pull up on your handle to open your tailgate usually one of the levers is so bent that is doesn't fully pull the rod enough to release the latch. One side might release but not the other. So here's what you do---lift up on the handle about halfways and look up under there. You can see where the two rods (the ends are in an 'L' shape) are inserted into plastic nuts. You can now see when you lift up the handle all the way which rod isn't getting pulled on---the one with the least movement. Those plastic rod clips clip onto the shaft of the rod after the tip of the rod is inserted into it. Let's first release the clips---Get a long flat-bladed screwdriver and position it under the part of the clip that is on the shaft. Pry up on it until it releases from the shaft. You can now push the 'L' shaped part of the rod out of the clip. Do that to the other clip also, although you might have to pry down on the clip to release it then remove the 'L' shaped end from the clip. Now you can manually pull the 'L' shaped ends of the rods towards each other to release the latches. Maybe a pair of pliers or needle-nosed pliers would be easier. Pushing on the tailgate to relieve the pressure on the latches may make it easier to pull on the rods too. You can also release one side at a time to open it. Once opened you can take the bent handle off of the tailgate and try to reposition the bent parts (which works a lot of the times) or just replace it. Just remove the three bolts on the inside of the tailgate and wiggle the handle out. Maybe hold the handle in the open position while removing it might help. Then you can operate the handle and see where everything makes contact with each other and see if you can put things back in the position they were supposed to be. When all is said and done be sure to WD-40 everything!!! Hope this helps

best of luck.

A collage is pics and(or) text that is arranged randomly, make sure all spaces are used up in your collage!