Dodge Intrepid

snow

how to replace steering rack in 1993 dodge intireped

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Possible fix, remove NEGITIVE battery cable,..connect a common test light[aligater clamp end to cable... point end to battery post] to bridge a

circuit at the NEGITIVE post-to-cable...with all doors,trunk lid, and glove box shut,key

out of ignition...disconnect under hood light... if light is off there is NO battery drain,

open drivers door,the testlight should come on.....this tests for battery draw...

The positive goes on the large stud. The engine ground wire goes under the center starter bolt.

mopar A.K.A Chrysler

Need to know what motor. Is it the 2.7L or the 3.2/3.5L?

Heres a diagram for the 3.5L I think the 2.7L uses the same sensor.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/TCPMeta/map.png

I am assuming you want to know why your flasher is not working. The flasher is run off the turn single fuse it should be listed on the fuse block or fuse diagram if the fuse is good check your flasher some 95 flashers are 3 prong round canister type and others are five prong plastic black box type. either way they would be in the same place on your car. Here is a copy of what I answered for a 1997 intrepid flasher question. "The turn signal/hazzard flasher is a small unit ( little black box, 5 prongs ) Located between the fuse box and brake peddle on a braket under the drivers side air conditioning duct. At some point and time in 1995 dodge swiched over in the middle of production so some 95 intrepids and 96 and 97 should all be the same. The repacment flasher is Tridon Stant EP27. I had a lot of trouble finding it myself when I first bough my 1995 used None of the turn singles worked and we had to get a flasher which we finely found from PEP BOY's for $12.99 Tridon Stant part # EP27. Dodge wanted $31.70 for the same Chrysler flasher part # 47600060. "

acetylene and hammer

The 3.5L is a non-interference.

Remove the nut at the top, and the nut at the bottom of each of the two links. Place a new link in the proper position (for each).

My apologies for the punctuation, this web site is not GNOME-friendly.

Tighten the nuts. Your horrible clunky falling apart type noise should be gone. Replace the rear brake backing plates and your brake rub/squeak noise will go away too.

THE BEST WAY IS TO SLIGHTLY ELEVATE THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE, JACK IT UP, THE REASON FOR JACKING IT UP IS TO ENSURE ALL THE BUBBLE FLOAT TO THE HIGHEST POINT AND GET OUT OF THE SYSTEM. NOW MAKE SURE YOUR HEATING IS SET TO "FULL HEAT" AND TURNED ON "LOW" FAN SPEED. THEN OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE LOCATED ON TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING, IF YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IS EMPTY NOW IS THE TIME TO FIL IT UP, U SHOULD HEAR A GENTILE HISSING SOUND AS U POUR IT IN, THIS IS AN INDICATION OF THE AIR ESCAPING. WHEN U SEE THE COOLANT COME OUT THE BLEEDER U KNOW THE AIR IS GONE. TO MAKE SURE U GOT ALL OF IT OUT TURN THE ENGINE ON, WITH THE RESERVOIR CAP FOR THE COOLANT BOTTLE OFF, OPEN THE VALVE ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AGAIN, KEEP ENGINE AT IDLE DO NOT REV IT, ADDING FLUID UNTIL THERE IS A STEADY STREAM DRIPPING OUT. LET ENGINE REV UNTIL COOLING FAN GOES ON WHEN IT GOES ON U WILL PROABALY HAVE TO ADD FLUID TO THE RESERVOIR DO NOT LET IT GO LOW KEEP IT CONSTANT. ONCE THE FAN HAS STOPPED PUT CAP BACK ON RESERVOIR AND YOU'RE DONE.

Passenger side front wheel well has a compartment where battery is located.

$119.95 O' Reilly's

I had an experience with our 97 intrepid where the dipstick would not go in. I found the dip stick tube was broken off at the block, and moved to the side. As the dipstick was inserted, it hit the engine block.

To fix this, I put a jack under the oil pan and removed the motor mount on this side (hey, there are 4 bolts in this thing, one from underneath). I also removed the heat shield on the exhaust manifold, then removed the dip stick tube. A new tube could be installed then, but the following problems exist. What to do with the broken off piece of dipstick tube, and where to buy one.

Because I had limited time, I drove the old piece of dipstick tube down with a 1/4" socket and a couple extensions. Just drove it in a little bit, then I cleaned up the end of the existing dip stick tube and re-inserted it into the block hole. I put it into the block low enough to install the retaining bolt just above the normal clip on the tube, which held it in place. I put the heat shield and motor mount back on.

I did cut 1/2" off of the dipstick, and marked it on the other side with a file so I can tell where the oil level should be. I will confirm this next time I change oil.....

On the first gen Intrepids you have to remove the rear seat and then take off the shelf above the speakers.

Now this isn't as hard as many people think it is. It only takes a few steps, and can be finished in a matter of 20 minutes. I'll lay it out as simple as I can.

Step 1:

In a 1st generationg there are two bolts holding the bottom seat cushion down to the car body. Put the front seats all the way forward so you can have more room to work. Start off on the drivers side and kneel down on the ground and put your head in between the drivers seat and the back seat. You will see a little groove where the bolt is. Feel around with your fingers if you cant see it, you'll find it. Remove that bolt using a socket wrench, or a basic wrench if you don't have one. Repeat this process on the opposite side. Now set those bolts aside and lift up on the seat cushion, it will pop right out. Dont worry about it being heavy, its only about 5 lbs max.

Step 2:

Take ur time to clean up all the crap that has fallen between the cracks in the past years and maybe vacuum if you feel so inclined. In my car i personally found about 4 bucks in change, three buttons, about 5 pens, and an unused piece of gum, haha. After you get that done, look at the bottom of the rear back cushion when the seat belts are attached. Use a socket wrench again to remove those bolts. Once you get em out set it aside. Now move the seat belts off the seat, so they wont be pulling against the cushion and place your hands on the bottom while kneeling towards the rear of the car. This is a tricky part. You have to first pull out towards the front of the car, to get the brackets off the bolts, then lift up swiftly and strongly to lift the top brackets out of the grooves. Now keep one hand on the bottom, and move the other to the top and sort of pull out towards you while you lift up still. With a little wiggling you will get it out. Set it aside and maybe relax for a second.

Step 3:

Now you will have a perfect view of the rear deck. Now if you tug on the rear deck a little, you will notice that you have a trim panel, one on each side, holding it back. Place your fingers under this trim and just pull it out. It snaps out pretty easy, Just don't break it. Now that the trim is gone, remove the screws holding the deck in place. Now pull on the rear deck again and wiggle it around till it comes out. remember you still have those speakers back there, so if you wanna save em, don't go bashing the deck around. You could also ask someone to help and lift those speakers out from inside the trunk while you pull. Remember you still have the seat belts holding onto the rear deck so ur not ganna get too far with it unless you wanna take those off as well.

Step 4:

Now that you have it off, you can do all the work you need, whether its dynomatting, replacing the speakers, porting, or anything else that strikes ur fancy. Re-installation is the exact same as the removal. Slide the rear deck into position, and replace the trim. The re-installation of the rear back cushion is slightly tricky again, but nothing you cant handle. Hold it steady and try to look over the top of it down, and guide those hooks into the grooves, once those are in, MAKE SURE TO PULL THE SEAT BELTS BACK TO THE FRONT OF THE SEAT! I forgot to do that and it added a little time onto my re-install, haha. Push the rear seat back into the two bolts, make sure to put the seat belts back on. you will be able to tell which side was which if you just think about it. the one with the two female sockets will go on the left side of the car if us facing forward i believe, but don't quote me on that cause its off the top of my head. Once you have those on, put the nuts back on and tighten em down. Now put the bottom cushion back on and make sure the slot that is attached to the seat goes BEHIND the bracket that is attached to the car. These are the bracket that are in the front of the bottom cushion. Screw em back in and presto. You're done

All in all the procedure is pretty simple. Yeah my how to might have been long but the 1st gen needed on in here. And even though its long, its still a process that only takes 20 minutes of ur time.

That engine has to be refilled with coolant in a manner that allows the air to escape. There could be air trapped in the cooling system from not having it filled properly after the radiator was replaced. Here is the way to get air out:

It would be good to start with only a partially filled system. Open the drain cock of the radiator and collect coolant fluid. It may not begin to outflow very much until you notice also that the thermostat housing has a bleed valve which if you open it will allow the fluid to drain from the radiator more rapidly. Drain about 3 quarts of coolant in a pan for reuse; then close the radiator drain cock.

Put a 4' length of clear plastic hose on the thermostat housing bleed valve nipple and direct the hose over the front of the car to a clean container to catch the coolant as you refill the system (You don't want coolant to get on the drive belts). Then take the cap off the recovery bottle and slowly fill the coolant recovery bottle until fluid starts to flow out of the clear hose. While adding coolant slowly as necessary to keep it running from the 4" hose, gently squeeze on the top radiator hose until all the air is exhausted from the system via the bleed valve hose. The outflow from the hose should have no air showing up. Close the bleed valve and fill the system the rest of the way until it reaches the to the mark on the side of the overflow bottle. Remove the hose from the bleeder valve nipple.

call a lock smith

This is coolant. You have a leak in your cooling system or you water pump has failed and is leaking.

Green

The torque depends on the engine if you have the 3.5L V6 you have to take steps first to 45 ftlbs in the right sequense and then to 65 ftlbs (twice) and then turn them an additional 90 degress. the 3.3l engine has 5 steps the first four are the same except you tighten the 9th bolt to only 25 ft lbs

autozone.com has online manuals that give you printable component locations

Go to Autozone.com, register, and they have all the specs for your car. It's a complicated process that involves removing the timing belt and removing most of the accessories (IE:alternator, power steering pump....)from front of engine. GOOD LUCK!

The crank gear dot is at 12 oclock when #1 piston is at TDC, Top dead center.

Cam gear dot is at 6 oclock. Both dots should be in a stright line over top of each other.

It's in the centre of the dashboard, right below the windshield. The bottom of the dash, sides and top of the dash have to come off. Drop the steering column onto the drivers seat, unplug all the wiring harnesses to the brake switch, 60 way connector, fuse panel,and all other connectors for airbags, turn signals etc etc.... take out the radio and heater control and console (if equipped). Remove the heater and AC lines in the engine compartment. Undo the 3 bolts in the engine compartment connecting the module to the firewall and the three bolts inside the car holding the module to the firewall. Pull the module out and the core is on the left side top. It's about a 15 hr job for a first timer.