Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer

68 to 73 302's were 210 horse. I'm guessing it is a 2v . After 73 they dropped way down and before 68 they were 289's. There also were a couple of weird ones out there that were 302's with 289 inners around 68 and 9. when they faded out the 289's they ran out of blocks so they used 302 blocks to deplete there 289 parts. So anyhow if your out for an old 302 make sure it's 68 to 73. Always check your heads to see if they have 2v or 4v under the cover. Just never know when you might find a gem

You have to take off all the parts on the front of the motor. While you re at it, if the timing chain has never been replaced and the bronco has high milage, then you should consider doing this also. Go to your local auto parts store and by a chiltons repair manual. I used the manual and did the change out over a weekend. Be careful not to break any bolts. Use liquid wrench on the bolts first (it is a spray), then take them off. If bolt is hard to break loose, try tightening it first (not a lot, just barly, and then looen it out). Make sure you have deep sockets to fit. Take notes on where each bolt goes (there are a lot of bolts of different sizes, be careful)! You should be able to do this without any problems (if you get the book). Good Luck!!

All the tires should be the same size. If the other tires are in place you should be able to get the size from the other tires. If not the size should be on a plate inside the drivers side door with many other specs.

I have never come across a 1999 Explorer that had a cabin air filter. I am looking at the Ford online service manual right now, and I don't see a listing for it, nor do I see a picture of it anywhere in the diagram. All indications are that vehicle never came equipped with one.

My 1999 Ford Explorer Does in deed have a cabin filter, it is located behind the glove compartment.

Where can I find a free starter solenoid replacement diagram for 1988 ford f250

I'm not sure what year you have but for my 94 xlt it was as simple as:

-lower the window so you can open the tail gate.

-remove the access panel

-now open the window half way

-there are 4 bolts, 2 on each side that connect the window to the mechinism that raises and lowers it. remove those 4 bolts.

-open the window fully once disconnected from the mechinism

*MAKE SURE TO SUPORT THE WINDOW WITH BOX'S OR SOMETHING*

-diconnect the wiring harnes to the motor

-remove the 3 bolts that hold the motor in place.

-and slide it out

if you take the front wheels off of the car then look on the drive shaft by the wheel hub and strut you will see a ring that has slots in it this is part of the speed sensor the other part is conected very close to that ring and usually has two wires running from the pcm to the speed sensor if you need more help email me tunerboy369@yahoo.com

No. The Prism motor is a Toyota motor and side mounted. The Tracker motor(suzuki) is mounted with the engine from front to back, so it will not work without a lot(I mean a lot) of work to do it.

the firing order is printed on the top the manifold.

For a 1996 Ford Bronco :

I don't know what the capacity is for the radiator alone :

For the entire engine cooling system :

5.0L V8 , anywhere from 13 to 15 U.S. quarts depending on how it is equipped

* manual or automatic , air conditioning , super engine cooling

5.8L V8 , 16 to 17 quarts

It came from the factory with a 50 / 50 mix of distilled water and GREEN color antifreeze ( meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A )

The Eddie Bauer was an option ordered from Ford. It was the top of the line Ford Bronco from 1987 to 1996

Well first off you have 4 02 sensors on your truck. So what one are you looking to replace. Bank 1 or 2, sensor 1 or 2. You will also need a special socket likley. Other wise a 22mm wrench (7/8 inch is about the same).

take off the gas tank and then find a small chain, put the chain inside the gas tank add some gas and shake it for about 2 minutes, drain the gas and repeat if gas was orange or until u get it clean.

Inertia switch activated? Look on the interior firewall to the left of the brake pedal and find a rectangular plastic switch. See if the red button is pressed down. Another possibility is a defective fuel pump relay. If you dont hear the pump run briefly when you turn the ignition on, it may be bad.

1966 to compete with jeeps

1-4-2-5-3-6

Go to Autozone they can print one out for you its in their computer.

In the engine compartment fire wall drivers side to the right of the brake booster. You will need to loosen the fender liner and pry it down for the ecu to be pulled out.

Check the switch and make sure it hasn't gone bad. Next check the fuse. If it still doesn't work, make sure the motor is still good. If all else fails, trace the wires all the way back to the motor because there's a short somewhere.

Sure it will fit, but you need to make other changes so it all matches up. I suspect motor mounts are different for starters as well as the output of engine to the trans. You might want to consider upgrading some of the rrest of the drive train also to be able to handle the extra power of the V-8. Check the Jeep blogs & forums cause I am sure someone has done it. Places like Advance Adapters will most likely have any conversion parts you need.

You must remove the entire rear fender.

the diagram should be under the hood on the sticker with the emissions information

First, you are going to remove all plastic trim working (around side windows, and above the back seat. Next, you will see a series of star pattern bolts, with a hole in the middle. (You can buy a similar socket kit at any wal-mart, advanced auto, etc.) You will then take every bolt out, besides 2, which are located at the top corner of the back windows (they will need to unscrewed, until they no longer turn. After all bolts are taken out, look to the tailgate on the driver's side. You will see a a plug that will disengage your 3rd brake light. After this is done, you will the be able to lift the top straight up, and then back. Keep in mind, the top is not that heavy, but bulky, so get another person. Make sure you keep all parts (bolts, etc) that you take off. These can be pain to find if lost!! And now, go cruise the roads!

I would recommend a haynes manual, they discuss it thoroughly, Altho there isn't much detail about the internals. If you are just doing a swap, the haynes would be a good investment.

Depending on 2 wheel abs or 4 wheel abs. there is one on the rear axle diferential housing and one on each front wheel bearing