Ford Bronco

no, they switched to ifs in 1980

check your dip stick to see if your engine oil is too low. also check oil sending unit

To change from an automatic to manual transmission in a Ford Bronco, you will have to fine a transmission that bolts up to the engine. The transmission mounts have to be changed. The shifter has to be changed along with adding an entire clutch system including a pedal. This will require brackets, drilling in the firewall and possibly welding under the dash.

they do not all have the same value because there are several different bronze copy's of this bronco as well as size's also

Try using logic!

1. Take out the spark plugs/injectors. Try and crank the engine over. Does it turn over? If it doesn't then try again with the lights on. Do the lights dim to nothing when cracking? If yes, then your battery is dead - Replace.
2. If the lights don't dim then your starter is not getting juice. Does your starter solenoid click? If not then the fault is in your ignition circuit from the battery to the solenoid, Check the ignition fuse and wiring.
3. If the solenoid is clicking. Then the fault is in the main power from the battery to the starter motor. Add a light bulb to the power connection on the starter motor, check to see if power is getting to the starter motor, if yes then the fault is in your starter motor, It could be jammed or misaligned. If not then the fault is in the solenoid or power cable to the starter.
4. If this is all correct then try the same logic to the fuel system. Start from the tank and work forward to the cylinder. Is fuel getting to the pump? Is fuel getting to the filter? Is fuel getting to the Carb/Injectors. Check for air locks all along the system.
5. If all else fails, check your timing and other issues using the same logic.

Yes, the car was exactly the sam for those years. Usually, the car parts comply until they change the body style completley. Or, buy a universal automatic window regulator. Patrick

Answer: Like blood pressure, normal should be 160-175PSI. 20-30PSI higher or lower indicates a possible internal problem.

1979 was the first year the slogan was used for Ford Trucks.

yes as long as the motor in both have not been changed to a different size you can look at the top of the moyor and it should say 5.0 on the motor and as long as it does it is the exact same motor

It could be as simple as a leaking fuel pressure regulator that allows fuel pressure to drop when the engine is turned off, and it's not getting up to pressure when you try to start the engine.

Try this:

Next time the engine sits for a while and you're ready to start it, turn the key on but don't try to start the engine. Leave the key on for about five seconds then turn it off. Repeat the process, THEN try to start the engine.

It might help but then again, if it doesn't you aren't out anything.

On a vehicle it is a Mass AirFlow sensor. It measures the amount of air going into the engine.

Bucking Bronco is the first song in the cycle Cowboy Songs. Followed by Lift me into heaven slowly, and Billy the Kid.

sometimes pulling the battery cable works but your better off going to autozone or advance auto parts they will scan the on board diagnostics or O.B.D as its refered to and this tells whats wrong with the car to cause the light to come on most likely a bad sensor then they erase the codes. code reading is free the parts to repair are not.

It is used in extremely cold climates to aid in starting. The block heater keeps the fluids warm for a much faster start.

I'm not sure about a 1990 model, but later model fords have the flasher unit incorporated within the hazard flasher switch. Try the WD-40 fix, it might correct the problem. Spray WD-40 around the switch and pop it up and down a few time and wiggle it around a bit.

also....from my experience, this could be as simple as a burned out bulb not allowing for a completed circuit !

You didn't mention whether you've changed the coil wire itself. If it's faulty, you'll get no spark anywhere. Also, the power supply to the coil or module could be at fault.

Polyvinyl chloride PVC = polyvinyl chloride, a synthetic resin preparedd by the polymerization of vinyl chloride

Fuel injected? In the fuel tank

Carb.? At the front lower section of the engine - follow fuel line

3975

Blow-by is an indication of worn rings. While the PCV valve can take up SOME of the blowby gasses, it can't take care of a lot, especially if you have severe blow-by. If you're still getting too much blow-by, it's time to rebuild the engine. Don't just do rings, have the cylinders bored and get new pistons, and while it's apart, replace the oil pump, have the Camshaft checked, replace lifters, polish and/or turn the crank, new bearings, new exhaust valves, replace or recondition all valve guides, and have the head surfaced. It's not very cost effective to just replace the part that has failed. Everything in the engine has worn severely over time, and you'll actually save in the long run if you do the engine right. BTW, don't ever let an engine overheat, that can lead to collapsed rings. Also, keep the oil and filter clean, and make sure the carburater is adjusted and working right and that the air cleaner is doing its job and is clean. Dust in the engine intake can cause rings to wear, resulting in blowby. In general, just make sure the NEXT engine is properly maintained and you shouldn't have blow-by problems.

I would have the O2 sensor or sensors checked. They are usually what sends the signal to the PCM on how to set the fuel codes as far as rich and lean. If they are sending a good signal at cold, and telling the computer to richen the mixture and as the engine warms their signals should change to tell the fuel delivery table to begin to cut out fuel and go to a more normal mix. Yours may not be getting the warm code sent to the PCM and your fuel trims are staying on the rich side. Running too rich will foul up the O2 sensors and could ruin your catalytic convertors as well. Find the exhaust manifold and you will see the O2 sensors. They can be removed and take them to a testing place maybe Autozone and try to see if they are within specs.

no,it's different.

SOME Chystler products & PROBABLY others (older vehicles) have water jsckets that run through the timing Cover,SOMETIMES if the cover get a hole in the cover INTERNALLY -(IT) will fill the Engine with oil & ruin the Engine.

it could be a head gasket or water pump or a freeze plug leaking