Ford Contour

To remove antennas' you will have to unscrew the antenna from where it is currently located on the outside of the car. Usually it will have one or two types of nuts holding it in place, you will probably have to open the hood and hold the interior nut with a wrench - pull what is left of the wire through and if you have a new wire you can probably attach it to the current antenna or you could just go to a juckyard and pick on up an entire antenna and wire connected off of the same type of vehicle as yours. Reattach the antenna the same way you took it off and rethread the wire back through the firewall and plug it into the radio - most radios take a special jack on the end so you will have to replace at the very least the wire.

As this was the year of the switch, it can have either. There should be a sticker somewhere on the unit listing what it has. Any A/C professional can tell you.

If its the same as a 96, its the top row rt. fuse 15amp. Marty

A P0402 indicates that the PCM is seeing voltages higher than expected from the DPFE(Delta Pressure Feedback Exaust) sensor. The DPFE is the EGR position sensor. The high than expected reading could be caused by an EGR valve that is either sticking open, EGR valve that is being held open by the EGR vacuum regulator, or it could be a faulty DPFE sensor.

Disconnect battery and put a bulb between the battery post and the disconnected lead, if a drain is there the bulb should light up. Then methodicly remove and replace each fuse one at a time, if the light goes out, that will indicate the circuit the drain is on. Good Luck

have you checked under the rear seat? just remove the cushion and you should be able to tell if is there or not.

IN MOST CASES THE VEHICLE, WHEN COLD, WILL START BUT NOT STAY ALIVE, BUT A CODE SHOULD ALSO BE GENERATED ON THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE. A GOOD CLUE THAT IT'S WORKING IS IF THE IDLE GOES UP TO AROUND 2,000 RPMS THEN GRADUALLY DECREASES DOWN TO AROUND 700-750 RPMS DURING A COLD MORNING START.

Easy, fix the problem that caused the light to come on in the first place.

i have an SE and it takes 6 quarts. ford now recommends 5w-30

TO REMOVE A BROKEN DIP STICK USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS OR A MAGNET.

follow the top radiator hose to the engine remove three 10 mil bolts replace o ring

It requires special tools There are no keyways or timing marks on the cam gears. The carnk gear has a key way, and a small mark that looks like a nick in the pulley that gets lined up with the angled side of a mark in the block that looks like a wedge. There is also a spaecial tool you can use on the crank gear, but I always pull the #1 spark plug out and stick a long screwdriver on top of the piston and rock the engine back and forth and watch the screwdriver handle go up and down to find TDC, then use the mark on the block to get it dead on. The cams use a flat bar that is a tool made just for that engine across the groves cut into the back of the cam shafts. The cmas and the tool are made so that when they are lined up, the bar will also be laying across the top of the head. I have heard that a standard flat file is also the right thickness, but I am not sure. To get the engine to time right, you have to loosen the bolts that hold the gears to the cams. The gears will freewheel. With the gears loose, set you bar across the cams, line up your crank, put the belt on, and set the tensioner. Then after everything is in place and the belt is fully installed, double check your crank, then tighten down the cam gear bolts. DO NOT ALLOW THE SPECIAL TOOL TO BEAR ALL THE TORQUE WHILE YOU TIGHTEN THE CAM GEAR BOLTS! You will break the cams if you do! Each cam has a place for a wrench. Use a wrench to hold the cams while you torque down each bolt. And dont forget to remove the special tool before you try to crank the engine over for the same reason.

On our 2000 Ford Contour 2.0 L 4 cylinder, the thermostat is located in a housing on the right side of the engine. Trace the upper radiator hose to the engine and it is located in that housing. To replace, disconnect the radiator hose from the housing. Be prepared for a 1/2 gallon or so of anit-freeze to spill. Remove the front plate from the housing by unscrewing the 3 screws using a hex head type screwdriver. Thermostat and gasket should slip right out.

pop the hood and look right at where the back of the dash is the should be a cable coming out at that spot that's the speedometer cable

V6 has 4 O2 sensors, one under the coil pack between the engine and firewall (bank 1, sensor 1 and it's a pain to reach), one in front between the radiator and engine and two accessible from underneath.

u cant most newer vehicles timing is controled by the cars computer

According to a Haynes manual: 1995-1997, Dry Fill, 4 cyl - 9.0 quarts 1998, Dry Fill, 4 cyl - 7.6 quarts Drain & refill - 4.0 quarts starting point, then add as necessary in small quantities to bring to the appropriate level.

Bad blower resistor. I just replaced mine.

I had this problem. It may be a leak in one of the manifold seals on your engine, causing air to be sucked in offsetting the vaccum distribution. You can check this by seeing if there is oil being mildy sprayed around the seal. You'ld have to take apart the engine though and replace both manifold seals, as this model has two, I believe - I could be wrong though. Hope that maybe helps.

Drain cock for the coolant is on the lower passenger side of the radiator toward the engine bay side of the radiator. Difficult to get at, but nothing a long, man-sized screwdriver can't solve.

This is a very involved procedure, that is too complex to post here. Go to any auto parts store and purchase a repair manual for you ride. There you will find detailed instructions. Cost around $12 The Haynes manual will tell you all about it. But, I had it done by my mechanic, it's kinda a pain to do it yourself. (took them 6 hours) Change the water pump and the idler while you're at it, that car is a pain to fix...

SRS has a problem. Air bag could possibly deploy at any time or not at all. Have this repaired by an expert ASAP. Very true. Knowing the code and it's meaning might give you some insight. See http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=29 for a list of codes and meanings.

If the "check engine" light is off this could be a vacuum leak dew to a failing vacuum hose or a bad intake gasket. If the "check engine" light is on then this could be a number of bad sensors. Take the car to an auto parts store that runs a free diagnostics testing of the computer on your car. They will tell you the bad sensor and where the part is located on your car so you can replace the bad part and save you some money in the process. :)

I don't think there is a fuse. My temperature gage did not work so I bought a new temperature sending unit and replaced the old one on my four cylinder ztec engine. I think it was located on the front of the engine drivers side. Very simple job. The first time though I was given the wrong part as there are two separate sensors in this car, one of which takes care of the temperature sending information to the computer to tell the injectors how warm the engine is. Change both if you have the money...it can't hurt. Check the wiring going to these units also, Contours were notorious for wiring issues.