Ford Ranger XL

Hard Set the parking brake, and block the rear tires. Jack up the right front chassis enought to remove the tire and wheel. Put safety jack stands under that area and lower the jack . Remove the plastic inner wheel well covers to gain access to the front of the engine. There you will see the bottom most engine pully (crankshaft dampner)on the serpentine belt system. At three o'clock you will see the crankshaft sensor and it's mounting bolts. The sensor extends into the metal fins on the back side of that pully. If the sensor is busted up you should remove the pully and check for bent fins. There is close clearance between the sensor and the fins and when you install a new one it has to be close and center between the fins - but not too close and the pully fins have to pass thru the sensor gate grooves without touching them. LOL

one timing chain

.044 inch ( according to fordparts.com and therangerstation.com )

Yes, they made the Galaxie, Galaxie 500, and Galaxie 500 XL. No plain XL as far as I know.

Actually, this was true prior to 1968. In 1968 Ford changed the naming to be Galaxie 500, XL and LTD. The full size line also included, as in previous years, the Country Squire.

Follow the top radiator hose from the radiator , it connects to a metal pipe which is

part of the thermostat housing that is bolted to the front of the engine

The thermostat is inside the thermostat housing

If you have antifreeze in any cylinder, this indicates a blown head gasket in that area of the head. Could also be a warped or a small crack in the head. I have seen this over and over again. Cylinder nice and shiny if the engine was running, due to the water and piston cleaning the wall of the cylinder.

If you suspect your timing belt has broken or the teeth have been stripped off of it, the only way to know for sure is to take off you timing belt cover and have a look. Some vehicles had / have interference heads. These vehicles will destroy their own valves if you try to crank them without a timing belt on.

Here you go! 51 Nm (37.6 ft. lbs) @ 8000 rpm would u know the torque settings on the front sprocket now! =)

High temperature, non-flammable.

This information can be found in your owner's manual. If you do not have one, you can obtain one from your dealer or a salvage yard.

Spark Plug (ACDelco R45TS) [Gap @ .035” for points distributor, .045” for HEI distributor]

On the drivers side of the engine , below the power steering pump

( on the Ford 4.0 liter OHV / pushrod engine )

30000

On the passenger side fire wall under the hood by the evaporator core. Goes into the fire wall.

Check the inertia ( fuel shutoff) switch inside the cab. Also, make sure the fuel pump relay is working and not fried. One sure fire way to tell if its the pump or not, have someone listen to the tank when the ignition is turned on; they should hear it..... or...take the fuel line off at the back of the filter and turn your ignition key on. You should get a good squirt of fuel at that point. Believe it or not, some aftermarket (not OEM) parts have been known to be defective....lower cost fuel pumps especially. Hope that is not the case. .

Hey Richard==I imagine the clutch is weak and slipping. Have it checked out and replaced if necessary. GoodluckJoe

A temporary "fix" is to buy some baby powder. Find an access hole at the back of the engine where the transmission bell housing is located-- it will show some gear teeth that the starter uses. Have a friend pump on the clutch pedal several times while you squirt baby powder into the clutch hole. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and engine stopped, of course! Don't EVER get under the car with the engine running, please. If you need more than once, start the engine, work the clutch. Stop engine and repeat with baby powder.

The baby powder will soak up any oil on the slipping clutch and provide some temporary "grab" . You still need a new clutch. But I have driven a slipping clutch--carefully--for three months this way. When taken apart, the clutch had pieces all over the bell housing.

The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is mounted on the throttle body

You can just change the bulb. Pop off the wiring harness, then it's a twist lock plastic piece and the bulb comes out. Replacements are about $6 at WalMart

Find the box that contains your AIR FILTER. There is an aluminum- looking housing bolted or screwed to the air box. It is the housing for the sensor. There should be an electrical connector to it also. Keeping the filaments of the sensor clean help alleviate driveability problems with the Ranger (and ALL vehicles). If you clean it, be easy and dont stick anything into the housing. Just spray with BRAKE CLEANER and let air-dry before reinstall.

i read were your not to use brake cleaner

I was told by a mechanic $30 for gaket. $50 for labor. I think this could be done with $20 for gasket $40 for labor

Sure... you'll just have to remove the transmission & flywheel.

On the majority of cars and trucks it is located under the hood, on the firewall, drivers side. On some older vehicles it was located under the drivers

floorboard.

Look for a blown fuse - if not sure check them with a continuity tester bad one will be evident