Ford Ranger XL

In a 1989 Ford Aerostar :

The engine cylinder / spark plug locations are numbered :

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front of vehicle

(Assuming you have a hydrolic clutch system)

When you push on the clutch pedal, you create hydrolic pressure in the master and slave cylinders, which in turn pushes on the release bearing (AKA throw-out bearing). The release bearing pushes on the fingers of the pressure plate. This takes pressure off of the clutch disc, putting the car in neutral, in a sense. Now you can change gears without damaging any of the transaxle gears.

When you release the clutch, you put pressure back onto the clutch plate and pressure plate, which gives power back to the wheels if you are in 1st-5th gear, or reverse.

in the waterneck the piece that the upper radiator hose connects to the intake manifold

You will need the following tools, 14mm socket and ratchet and or a 14 mm wrench and brass hammer or cheater bar, and a slide hammer axle puller, a midium size c-clamp or caliper compression tool and a torque wrench and finally the torque specification for the fastners on the rear axles,these include the hub to steering knuckle, brake caliper to mounting plate and the wheel lug nut specifications. Well first off on my Avenger the bearing is part of the hub and mounting bracket assembly and can not be purchased except as that assembly for safety reasons the bearing is swaged and then the edges of the bracket are rolled into the bracket assembly and then the bearing preload is set for the hub by an adjustment nut on the rear of the hub( DO NOT ADJUST THIS NUT ), to change the hub assembly was pretty striaght forward, First place the rear of the car on jack stands in a level place and check to see that the car is secure. Next remove the wheel Next remove the brake caliper it is held in place by two 14mm bolts inserted from the rear side. Next compress the claiper either with the c-clamp or the compression tool, set the caliper out of the way and secure it so that it does not hang by the brake hose, if not you might get lucky and nothing happen if you not lucky you will end up replacing the hose also. Next remove and set aside the two brake pads. Next remove and set aside the brake rotor, this should expose the emergency brake , it is not required to remove any of this unit Next remove the four 14 mm bolts from the rear of the suspension knuckle that thread into the back of the hub. the hub and braket assembly is in tight but not pressed in, stall the axle puller and using the slide hammer pull the hub outward. depending on rust the brake backing plate may come off with the hub assembly if it does turn it over and hit the center of the hub a few time with the brass hammer and it will pop out, note if you use a steel hammer and pun over the edge of the hub, you will have a lot of problems getting it off the backing plate. to install reverse the above, insure that you have a torque wrench and tighten all fastners back to factory specifications.

I have the same vehicle and had the exact same problem. It failed several times over a period of 1 1/2 years and would always restart until one day it just died. It turned out to be a faulty relay in the security system. Once the relay was replaced I never had the problem again.

Check coolant level Could be alternator going bad Could be coolant fan going bad

i like it

I already answered this under spark plugs. If you cannot find it let me know david vol-dolfan@msn.com

I'mworking on a 1987 Ranger. The questions asked are; 2 or 4 wd, super cab or reg., rear tank or center tank. Mine is a 2whd,reg. cab, with a center tank, and today I found out I have two (2)fuel pnmps. One inthe tank and one on the frame rail just below the drivers side floor board. I have not yet been able to do a fuel pressure test but I have confirmed that both pumps do run. Neither pump seems to be to difficult to change. The one in the tank will be time consumming but do able. My present consuren is if I do a pressure check and it is low how do I deterrmine which is not up to par? Good luck with your truck and wish me the same.

May be on top of starter follow the = battery cable

In some respects they are similar, but they have a lot of different things. First the 85 Ranger is still carbureted while the 92 is equipped with a fuel injection system. Transmissions are different between the years as well. If the engine is the 2.3 there may be some similiarities between the two. I own two 85's with the 2.9 gasoline engine. One thing is that the wheels between the years usually fit each other. Hope this helps.

Much like the Volvo, you need a dealship tool to remove. Another way to make money off of aftermarket parts. The tool alone for the Volvo headlight assembly is $100.00. That's rediculous. just hope the tool isn't as much and hope the headlamp isn't much but will likely be even more than the tool itself

Rick C.M, of Michigan

so what is the answer? how do you chang the light bulb?

ANOTHER POSSIBILITY:

I own a 1997 Mazda Protege DX and changing the headlight bulb is relatively simple. Mine took a replacement bulb number 9003 I used silverstar bulbs (they are bright but burn out fairly quickly) I seem to replace them yearly...however I drive about 2 hours each day and use my lights whether it is day or night.

So I change my bulbs by:

1. Pop the hood and locate the back of the headlight assembly,

2. The electircal wire that clips onto the back of the build can be removed by squeezing the tab on the clip and pulling the wire straight off toward the rear of the car

3. At this point you should now view the 3 prongs of the bulb protruding slightly through a black protective rubber dust cover.....There is a rubber "tab" on the cover that you grab and carefully pull back to remove the cover, then place cover aside

4. Now you should be able to see the back of the bulb, which is held in place by a horizontal "U" shaper wire, the wire is hindged at one side and latched at the other. To unlatch locate the end that is held by tension under a small hook.

5. Use forefinger to lightly depress and remove wire from behind small hook and the "swing" the U-shaped wire like a small door open exposing the bulb

6. Grasp the prong of the build and remove bulb.

***IMPORTANT, examine the "dead bulb" and practice inserting it a couple of times, with the 3 metal guide-wings aligned correctly into the slots....you do not want to bump the new bulb on any part of the car when installing and be careful to not touch the glass with your fingers or your will dramatically shorten your bulb life.

7. Grasp new build by one of the prongs insert into the back of the headlight assembly..just how you practiced > Close the U-shaped metal "door" > Latch the door and ensure the latch is in place securely > Replace rubber dust cover, snap electircal wire back on and you are set.

This may sound difficult but takes less than 10 minutes (5 if you have done it before).

1, 3, 4, 2

There are six plugs on your engine. Three on each side. The plugs can be found by following your plug wires. Looking through your wheel well is the best way to see your plugs.

It's in the line thanks to no one.

58.5

i can tell you which one it's not and that is the black with white stripe that one is a ground.hope this helps at all.

With the engine running , and the vehicle stopped with your foot on the brake pedal shift the transmission to NEUTRAL and then rotate your selector switch to 4X4 low then put in drive / reverse ( to switch back from 4X4 low to 2 wheel drive , with the engine running , and the vehicle stopped with your foot on the brake pedal , shift to NEUTRAL and then rotate your selector switch to 2 wheel drive then put in drive / reverse )

I had to change one of mine, seems to methere was a plastic shell so to speak behind the headlight, under the hood. Get that out of the way and it's just a twist and pull bulb insert, and then twist and pull bulb. It is however a very tight space to get the bulb insert in and out, just got to deal with it.

There is one in the exhaust system before the catalytic converter and sometimes one after it.

Whenever they are warped, damaged or worn down to the minimum limit. Your local auto parts store can measure your rotors if you bring them in off the car.

Yes the pulley has to be removed, To time this disconnect the spot plug(disables the computer) and set timing to factory spec's

You must remove the lower engine mount bracket, this held by three bolts to the block. the engine mount bush must be disconnected.

If you do have ramps this can be done by jacking and placing fixed jacks under the car. remove the driver side front wheel, and the splash cover( it takes some twisting but the cover is flexible )

Even after these components ghave been removed it is still a tight squeeze so some manouvering of the alternator is required. It is is also adviseable to remove the harness connections prior to the removal of the alternator. I have doen this a couple of times and the hardest part is the engine bracket as one of the bolts is almost a blind assembly and will need patience and kids removed due to the nasty words that eminate. Good luck

The engine control by way of the ignition module.