Fuel and Engines

You might be able to physically install it, but the other components may not be optimal.

The 2000 Buick Regal 3.8L Crankshaft Position Sensor is located behind the harmonic balancer pulley.

Have you checked if the catalyic converter is clogged? That is a possible cause for lack of top end/acceleration.

You can put a performance air filter in your diesel engine. Most engines have several different air filters that can be used.

No, i dont belive you can. If im not mistaken you can damge the car like that since it is being fed thru the fuel lines instead. Im not 100% sure how ever. You can try to increase performance other way such by adding performance parts. A Cold air intake migh be able to help you out. They are a bit pricey but there usually good for 5-10-15 horsepower gains depending on the application. It will get better horsepower and torque gains. And the throttle response will be better. You can add a little engine oil to Diesel fueled engines, it lubricates the fuel injection pump but not recommended for gas engines use a commicial made one.

No gas. Low fuel pressure from fuel pump. dirty fuel filter. any other symptoms you know besides just stop running while driving IE over heating running rough.

crankshaft sensor going.

I just did a 1995 Ranger with the 2.3L. The marks on this one were actually on the backplate behind each pulley. They are a U shaped indentation that line up with the arrows on the back of the belt guard. This is for the cam and aux shaft pulleys. The crank has the traditional dimple and arrow.

This line just allows air to flow out of the valves into the intake and leave out the exhaust. I believe it helps to balance the air flow of the intake and the air/fuel mixture.

There are many relays in that vehicle. We need to know which one you are looking for.

Diesel - because the combustion is better, you get more energy per pint of fuel. But if you want more "Bang for the bucks", a petrol engine will give you a more rapid acceleration. The diesel engine has another property: it will operate well with a wider span of rpm: e.g. it can give you 75% efficiency at 2000rpm, and keep on going to almost 5000rpm. If you drive a car with a manual gear, you do not need to change gear so often. In a boat, you have to change propeller, which is cumbersome, but here the diesel has even a bigger benefit, since it will work good at slow speed - say 5 knots, and equally at 25 knots. Usage of turbocharged and advanced injection makes the modern diesel engines almost as fast as petrol, and what remains then is the sound. To get the same sound as a angry petrol engine. So, if you want to impress the girls, I would say that the petrol engine is better.

on the underside of the hood on the right side there should be a sticker - if it is gone you will have to find another car with one, or buy a Haynes manual

on the drivers side behind the battery you might have to remove some of the plastics covering it

Drain the tank, change the fuel filter, refill with diesel.

As hydrogen releases more energy than petrol, H engine is more powerful than petrol .

just about 1.20

If you added a small container like 10 ounces or less to a full tank of gasoline, not to worry, nothing will happen except maybe the fuel injectors will get cleaned.

60

The fuel pump is in the gas tank. Remove the tank, then the rectangular plate on the top of the fuel tank. The electric fuel pump is just inside. If you would like specific directions let me know and I'll get them to you. Mr Geo Metro leehduncan@verizon.net

When you shift the Tesla Roadster into reverse you are just reversing the rotation of the electric motor. However it has a built in limiter that prevents you from going any faster than 15 mph in reverse. Without the limiter you could go just as fast in reverse as you could in drive until your had a wreck which you would in short order.

After oil change intervals, gasoline grades (Regular, Mid-Grade, and Premium) are about the most widely misinterpreted automotive concept -- and for good reason. When gas was still selling for a buck or so a gallon, ratings didn't receive that much press. At today's prices, however, there is a renewed interest and financial incentive in finding out which fuel is best to burn. Each gasoline grade is associated with an octane rating, which you'll see on those yellow stickers at the pump. In North America, regular gas is equivalent to an octane rating of 87; mid-grade with 89; and premium with 91. In some states, particularly those with a higher elevation, you may find what's sometimes called an "Economy" grade, which is lower than 87. At the other end of the spectrum, you'll often see premium gas with an octane rating as high as 95, depending on the gas company you get your fuel from. Why Octane Ratings? What purpose do octane ratings serve? In short, they measure the fuel's resistance to detonation, or the premature ignition of the fuel/air mixture during the engine's compression cycle. Marketing on the part of the oil companies and auto manufacturers has perpetuated the notion of octane ratings, which are classified by the Research Octane Number (RON) or the Motor Octane Number (MON). Both measure the fuel's resistance to detonation, but the MON measures the engine under load (i.e. towing) and so is roughly 10 points lower than the RON. RON is the measure found across Europe, while North America uses an average of RON and MON. This detonation is also known as "knocking" -- an annoying and, in the short term, largely harmless condition of reduced efficiency and power. The operative word here is "was," because with the adoption of modern fuel injection; engine knock sensors (generally after 1984); and unleaded fuels (1988), these timing/fuel related issues have essentially been alleviated in new vehicles. Some Gen Xer's will remember the Exxon Tiger anti-knock campaigns touting their premium fuel's ability to "Drive your engine clean." Today, though, fuel standards governed by the EPA, FTC and the state offices of weights and measures, require that all fuels -- including regular -- contain sufficient additives to prevent carbon buildup and protect your vehicle's engine, injectors, etc. Additionally, all gasolines (with the exception of E85 ethanol or other flex fuels) contain the same amount of latent energy, premium fuels simply have been "reformed" to have more compounds removed and/or additives added. Somewhat illogically, these additives actually make the fuel harder to burn, meaning they may help avoid the premature ignition in high compression and turbo/super charged engines. What's the Magic Number? The oil companies and refineries are a very influential bunch and have spent millions of dollars convincing both the automotive industry and consumer that there needs to be different "levels" (or qualities) of gasoline available for purchase. Car manufacturers have obliged by producing some high performance/high compression engines that require higher octane fuel to achieve their highest marketed horsepower ratings. In other words, you can't get that 255 horsepower you see advertised on TV without Premium fuel. Meanwhile, the oil companies figure they can use this "need" for Premium fuel as an excuse to peddle it to anybody who will pay. The fact is, though, that Premium fuel isn't necessarily the most efficient for even that "255 horsepower" car. So what's the magic number? The absolute best advice when considering which fuel to use is to consult your owner's manual. The manufacturer has designed the engine to perform optimally with a specific fuel rating in mind, which will provide the maximum efficiency and power. Can you use mid-grade or premium fuel in your engine, which is rated for regular? Yes, but it will be a waste of money. Even though the oil companies might try to make you believe otherwise, your car will not run cleaner, more efficiently or produce any additional power. Can you use regular gas in your vehicle even though the manufacturer specifies mid-grade or premium? Yes, you can but your engine will not perform in its most efficient range and over a prolonged period, you risk the possibility of engine damage. The additional few bucks you spend per tank-full will likely outweigh the money you save by running a fuel that provides less fuel efficiency. Also some manufacturers have even tried to void warranties in claims where evidence shows that improper fuel was used. One consolation is that at today's prices, the margin of premium over regular has fallen, meaning it is cheaper in relative terms to opt for the premium. Knock, Knock: When to Deviate from the Manufacturer's Claim When to "upgrade" If your fuel-injected vehicle is experiencing detonation (knocking), it may be a sign of some mechanical problem like faulty spark, carbon build-up, tainted gas, etc… If you or your mechanic has explored all these possibilities however, and you still have the problem, you may want to try bumping up a grade. This may happen with high mileage cars or during considerable periods of load, like towing, for example. When to "downgrade" Just because fuel prices have ballooned to four bucks a gallon is still no reason to automatically default to regular fuel. However, due to the additional additives found in premium grades, you may occasionally experience difficulty starting your engine, particularly during the winter months. An especially cold engine (i.e. winter) doesn't contain enough heat to immediately ignite this fuel, at least until it has warmed up some. If you experience rough starting or feelings/sounds that your engine is not running on all cylinders during and just after cold month startups, you may want to consider regular fuel while the snow flies and switching back to the "good" stuff in the spring.

Petrol is the term used for gasoline in some countries, like UK, Australia, New Zealand

the book says you drop the engine, transmission and subframe out the bottom. I am about to remove a 4 cylinder, and it looks like there's just enough room to remove it from the top. I'm thinking the exaust manifold can come off to get a little more clearance if needed - the intake manifold will not clear unless the engine can come loose from the tranmission and then move forward before pulling. I'm sure a v6 would never make it, and must come out the bottom. I recommend alldatadiy.com for more info - Haynes makes a good $16 manual, too

Bleeding injection pumps insures that no air is trapped in the lines. Injection pumps supply fuel at pressure into the cylinders of intermal combustion engines, and if any air is present in these systems, it will inhibit the ability of the pump to deliver the correct amount of fuel. (We know that air can be compressed, and fuel is largely incompressible.)

Additionally, air can be trapped at a number of places in a fuel injection system, and this may make it difficult for someone attempting to discover why an engine is running poorly to get to the bottom of things. Bleeding injection pumps insures that the pump will not incorrectly operate because of air in the pump.

Well that would depend on how much... Friend put about 4-5 gallons in a pickup with a 31 gallon tank; diesel doesnt ignite from spark plugs like a gasoline engine does, so it will bog down and die fairly quickly... If it was only a small amount, top off the tank with fresh gasoline, and try to crank it. Most likely though, the diesel will be in the fuel lines, and you have to unhook the fuel inlet line and bleed out the diesel for a minute and then hook line back up and it should start. Add some fuel injector cleaner to the tank as well, and keep the tank topped off with gas for a few weeks and the gas SHOULD dissipate the diesel which essentially is fuel oil. If you FILLED THE TANK, however, you'll probably have to drain it completely via a pump or something and then bleed lines and such. Question is, how the &"$% did you fit the diesel nozzle in your gasser?