Grand Am GT

I Just Finish Installing mine I figured out that the 2 red go to the battery. You only need 2 plug into one of the old headlight plugs. you will have 2 buy a female plug from Autozone 2 match your wirering for the halos then use a volt metter 2 find out Groun High and low mark them so you don't forget then conect the black wires then test the wires on the halo lights to find out wich is high and low beams. mine had a fuse like plug that made the brights and lows turn on 2gether but if you unplug it it will separate them. once u find out lows and highs plug them in the female plug 2 match your wire harnest. and 2 conect the halo I just taped into the side marker so they turn on with it. I boght some wire bridges so I din't have 2 splice the wires. Hope this Helped I'll try 2 get some pictures up soon.

An engine requires 3 things to start and run. Air, Fuel, and Spark (assuming it is not diesel). The first thing to do is determine what is missing. Normally Air is not the problem unless the air cleaner is so plugged up it can't get air. (extremely rare) A dirty filter normally allows the engine to start then run rich. Look for black smoke out of your tail pipe. First check for spark, you can do this by removing a wire from one of the plugs and attaching it to a spare plug laying against ground. The old "let's see if it will arc to ground" method can screw up some of the new electronic systems. If you have no spark, pull the distributor cap and turn over the engine. If the rotor is not moving, you have a broken timing belt. Since there are two timing belts on a Subaru, you have just checked one of them. If the rotor is moving and no spark, it is time to get knowledgeable help. Next is fuel. Easy to check, get a can of starting fluid from your auto parts store. Remove the air cleaner and spray a shot into the the carb, or if fuel injected, the throttle body. Crank over and if it runs momentarily it is a fuel problem and time to check the fuel pump, hoses, and crash sensor that can sometimes get tripped. It's job is to cut off the fuel in case of an accident and can get tripped by packages or a wayward knee. If every thing else appears to be present air, fuel, and spark it is time to check the other timing belt. Again a knowledgeable friend can help you with this. If you have not changed the timing belts in the last 50,000 miles, you need to. Many Subaru engines are "interference" type engines. That means that when the belt breaks, the valves can come in contact with the pistons creating severe cash drain problems. I know you asked what time it is and got the history of clocks, but the question has no one size fits all answer. Fred W4JLE@W4JLE.COM

Could be that the coolant level is a bit low and the flashing light is telling you this. The level will drop when the fluid is running thru the motor. When you turn the car off the level rises back to nominal level. Dan

the speakers are 5-1/4" round.

Have the code read. Autozone will do this for free. Even though the light is not on now. It will be stored as a recent code. It has to cleared to be erased completely. Good luck. i had the same problem with mine it turned out to be the knock sensor i replaced it and the problem went away give that a try

There are several possible firing orders of a six cylinder engine, in practice however, mostly it is 1-5-3-6-2-4. The ignition interval is also at 120 degrees.

Do not do that-- I did the speed sensor sends more that it should into the computer and it causes the Transmission shifting issue which I have.

Smaller tires go faster while your computer is programmed to read the velocity of 16inch tire, my speedometer shows 20mile while I'm going 25 and on freeway it shows 50 while I'm going 60-- in high-speed it really kicks when trany wants to chagne the gear.

By having the Anti-Lock Brake System, (ABS) repaired. The computer has detected a problem with the system.

Rear calipers are threaded and have to be "screwed" (because parking brake uses rear calipers) Tool available at Sears or auto parts--not expensive Get a 4 inch C clamp, put the old brake shoe back in place on the piston side and screw down the C clamp. This should do it. If not open the bleeder on this caliper & it will then go in. Be sure to Bleed The Brakes on the rear after this. cartalk says: Nix on the C clamp, as the Piston needs to be turned to go back in(self-adjuster) clamping will destroy parts... good luck dave Answer (12/19/08) Dave is right on... I just changed my rear brake pads on my '04 Grand Prix. The caliper piston face has a pattern on it that lines up with a "pin" on the back side brake pad. I bought a tool for $15 from O'Reilly AutoParts that is a "universal" tool that has he "pin" pattern to fit several car makes & models. The piston turned back into the caliper VERY easily. Just be sure to line up the piston face like it was when you first started so it will line up with the back side brake pad "pin". Mike

check your oil on the dipstick. if you have a cracked head or blown head gaskets the oil on your dipstick might have bubbles on it from water getting into your oil. another sign is white smoke coming from your tailpipe meaning you are burning water. I don't think you can over heat your oil, if your oil got too hot it would burn and you would smell it.

mine is doing the same thing. you have to take it to the dealer ship. they told me it would cost about $300.00 to run test and to fix everything.

To remove the fog light - firmly grasp the black plastic lens protector and twist it to the left (counter-clockwise) to remove it. Now remove the two bolts just above the fog light - the whole thing comes out as an assembly.

You will first need to remove the Phillips head screw holding the plastic piece on the handle. Underneath the armrest handle there are two bolts that need to be removed. If you have manual windows the is a metal clip that holds the handle on that can be taken off with a flathead screwdriver. After you get that off the panel should just pop off.

need torque specs for 3.4 pontiac grand am intake and rocker arms

200-220

Add the coolant into the coolant reservoir. Be sure the engine is cool when you remove the cap off the reservoir.

The coolant temperature sensor is located on the gooseneck follow the radiator hose on the top of the radiator to the engine on drivers side of car its a plug with 2 wires the sensor screws into the gooseneck

Should be HOT at one side of the brake light switch

Simply pry up the edges of the plastic in which the cup holder mechanism rests. To do this, open the console (drivers armrest) cover. There is a slot at the same position where the console button was located prior to lifting the cover. Use a large blade screwdriver to gently pry it up, as there are no screws holding it down.This trim is simply held in place by plastic tabs. Then gently pry the edges up all the way around until you have removed the plastic trim piece with the cup holder still in it. Now you can pull the cupholder out from the back after again using a screwdriver to compress the edges enough to release the raised plastic "pins" (the small raised plastic that acts as a hinge for the cup holder to rotate). I chose to replace the whole trim with cup holder in it, since I pulled it out of a grand prix in an auto salvage yard. This was simpler than removing the actual cup holder from the trim piece.Good luck.

Check an auto salvage yard, as mine only cost 10.00.

I think it is over $100.00 at a dealership.

There could be several reasons why a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am service engine light soon has come on. The engine may need a tune up, the timing belt may need changed, or even a bad fuel pump.

some times i turn my car on and it acts like it wants to start and than low and be hold the securaty light blinks frequently blinks for exactly 10 minutes light comes off than when when i try to start the car it starts my question is what is the trick of reset the alarm system so that i dont need two wait 10 minutes to start my OWN CAR.