Grand Am GT

If you look on the hose going from the air filter box into the engine the AIT sensor is screwed into the side of the hose

there isn't really much to the horn. if it isn't working the first start by checking the fuse to see if it's blown. the easiest way is to first locate the fuse the swap it out with a spare the try the horn to see if it works. if this doesn't work then you can locate the actual horn inside the front bumper and try a new one. you can get them at V.I.P. for less than $10. if that still doesn't work the you can try and remove the cover on the steering wheel. the are two screws in the back of it. just be careful of the air bag and the wires going to it. check the pressure switch to see if it is contacting when you push the horn "button" in. sometime you have to bend them back a little. you can also slip the wires off and touch them together. if the horn sounds the this is your problem. good luck!

The Fram number is PH3387A. You can use that number to cross reference it to your favorite brand.

On most S series, the sensor is located in the center, rear of the engine... by the cowl. Removal of the air cleaner and such is necessary to even see it. First check the fuses and the relay, then test the fan by either unplugging the wiring harness and running jumpers from the battery positive and negative. If the fan doesn't work when wired direct, then the fan motor is faulty. If it works and all fuses and relays have been tested, then the sensor is faulty.

The cooling fan will run when the A/C is engaged. Turning on the A/C for a second will normally activate the relay, unless the problem is more serious, and in turn switch on the cooling fan. This will help keep the engine cool until you can get the sensor replaced. Never run when hot or fill with cold water when hot. Cracked heads, block, blown gaskets can be more costly than a sensor.

what are you considering hot? because my sc2's fan doesnt kick on until the temp gauge hits the redline. (all the way up) once the needle hits it, they kick on, and they temp goes just about straight down to 1/4.

im pretty sure you just havent ran it to when the thermostat on the fans are set to turn them on...

Depends on the make/model/year

I bought a 1965 Ford Falcon station wagon in California with about a reported 227,000 miles from the mechanic I got it from, a 289 c.i. engine with caked on Mojave desert sand. Since I was in the military at the time and married, we went everywhere she wanted on my days off. My only concern was the points, plugs, filters, plug wires, hoses, tires and other minor needs. At the end of my hitch I took it home with family 1,320 miles east. When the engine finally expired on the second trip to California after the service time, my "autopsy" discovered a busted timing chain. I retired her with 342,000 miles after 31 months of ownership. I could have fixed the engine but since I opened her up and removed the outer "insulating" sand cover, the leaks began.

Typically, "timing cover and gasket" refers to timing chain (vice timing belt) equipped vehicles. Timing chains need oil from the engine for lubrication. To make this happen, there is an opening between the timing chain area and the valve camshaft area. The oil the flows into the timing chain area, then down into the oil pan. In order to keep the oil from spraying all over the rest of the engine (and having the engine break down from oil starvation), a metal 'timing cover' is installed over the timing chain and sprockets. Then, a 'gasket,' made of a soft, oil resistant material, goes between the timing chain cover and the engine block to prevent any leaks. The timing cover is bolted to the engine block and the bolts tightened to a specified torque.

"A BAD TEMP SENSOR"

Or it could probably be a broken relay of the compressor. Try looking at that one as well.

Hello, Jamison here,

Resetting ECM will not make car start,,,,,,,,, You need to have it scanned, Or ask other questions,,,, Give details like,,,,,,,,,,,,When was last time it ran,,,what was last action of car,,,have you checked/changed anything yet,,,,,,,,, good luck, jamison.

Usually at the upper end of the brake pedal under dash

As you are looking at engine from the front, it's on the left side at firewall. There is a row of 4 relays together, it is the third from the left.

But a new gasket.

Using the appropriate tools remove cylinder head and all attached items according to manufacturers instructions.

Remove existing gasket and clean cylinder block and head.

Fit new gasket according to instructions and reattach removed items.

first see if its low on fluid if not there's a fault in the switch ----In my 94 the Abs Inop Light was on. This Caused my cruise control to stop working. My third brake light was out on my spoiler and simply replacing it caused the light to go off and cruise to start working

There is no 'governor' in the normal sense. Both the engine RPM and Vehicle Speed are limited by the engine computer. There may be some 'Speed Chip' solutions to remove the speed limiter but, the 96 has a 'Flash' program, not a removable/replaceable module. You would either have to send it out for re-programming or a buy a second ECM (Engine Control Module).

Look at the website for the CPS. It has all the relevent information. http://www.cps.gov.uk/legal/section15/chapter_p_16_20.html

I had the same problem with mine. My regal had been sitting for almost a year. It was the fuel pump. And from what I hear it's very common to lose the fuel pump on these cars if they sit for any length of time. If you do it yourself go ahead and get the manual - it's worth it(and it's about $20). If you're not very experienced with car repair - I wasn't - plan on about 4-5 hours (taking it slow).

You'll know it's the fuel pump if you don't hear the pump whine as it pressures up when you turn the key to the on position.

Have you made sure it has spark?

its under the car by the oil pan u can miss it

u might need a new thermostat alot of times it's boiling away

Intake manifold or exhaust? The complete job (parts and labor) is between $700-$900. depending on labor rates.

On my 95 it is located in the transmission under the valve body cover on the drivers side of the transmission. It is the solenoid on the bottom left hand side of the valve body. I had to take the suspension and frame support off and lower the transmission before I could remove to valve body cover. A retainer clip holds the TCC solenoid in place.

you may have to get the wiring harness replaced.....about 250.00 to replace it

measure them

To change the headlight on a 2000 Grand Am, lift the hood, Remove black ram air cover by pulling black plastic clips out. look for the two sheet metal tabs located above or next too the headlight adjuster screws. These are like an inverted "L". Pull up on them and the headlight assy will pull straight out the front. You can pull up on these with your fingers, but if too tight it may take a pair of pliers. When unscrewing the plastic collar off of the bulb, use care. The internal tabs break off easily. The bulb socket has a latch on the side, then the bulb will pull out.