Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

If its on the passenger side, it is probably the air- conditioner condenser drain plugged up and this is not good. From what I have read this is better left to a qualified Jeep mechanic. when the drain gets plugged up, the water that normally drips into the body, frame area collects on the passenger side floor. Unless someone knows a cheaper fix. Its 1000.00+ at a dealer.

yes

I have the same problem on my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 and was told it's a bad pressure monitor sender that wasn't reading the pressure correctly. I'm not sure if this is correct and I am continuing to look into the problem.

MY 4.0 WOULD PEG OUT HIGH AFTER YOU STARTED IT. IT WAS ALWAYS THE SENSOR LOCATED BELOW THE DISTRIBUTER. NOT TOO HARD TO SEE. HAPPENED EVERY COUPLE OF YEARS( 50K-60K MILES)

heater core has a leak replace heater core

take some oxy clean and spay it over the stain, let it sit for a few mins and take a towel and press on the spot that your sprayed to soak up the moisture. If you buy the powder oxy clean just dilute it with a little water and shake it to make sure granuals dilute in the water.

On my 1992 Tercel the gap is .044 inches.

When you buy plugs, the manual (at least the Champion manual) should also have gap specs for the car.

1. out of balance wheels

2. misaligned front end

3. worn out steering dampner.

Well, weigh your mother and reduce it by about 500 lbs and that's your answer.

200,000 + miles

Either near the hinge of the passenger door or under the hood in the main relay box near the battery.

20.2 gallons.

two things to look at, #1, radiator cap is faulty, its a cheap fix, $6-7.00 at the auto parts store. The water pump may also be faulty, which will leak fluid from a seep hole under the pump housing. Open the hood, find the fan blade (Be sure car is not started) and the where the fan connects is the water pump. Grab the fan, and move it up and down. If it moves or leaks, then the water pump needs replaced. Also check the heater core to determine if fluid is leaking in the interior. Good Luck your thermostat may stuck in the closed position.

INFINITE RESISTANCE

Like taking your meter and holding the probes an inch apart in th air.

the factory defalt setting cannot be chandged and will always work, even though you add an additional code of you preference. here are the steps. # Enter the permanent factory remote keyless (RKE) keypad code # Press the 1/2 button within 5 seconds to activate the programming mode # Holding the 1/2 button for more than 2 seconds after activation erases the stored personal code # Within 5 seconds, enter the new 5-digit RKE keypad code. The door locks lock and unlock to confirm the new code is programmed. Entering any new personal code automatically erases the old personal code

It is possible that there is more than one reason for the symptoms you describe. However, this problem is fairly common and can be caused by the fact that the belt driving the alternator maintains a decent grip at "normal" rpm [revoultions per minute], but begins to slip as the engine is accelerated. Under the right conditions, the slippage will result in the rpm of the alternator reducing to almost nothing, which results in the electrical output being reduced by a relative amount, and if the slip should result in the alternator comming to a full stop, then there would be no electrical output. Check the alternator drive belt and pulley[s] for signs of "glazing", polishing, slippage, and for proper tension adjustment. Good luck. generally this indicates that the alternator neds repairing Answer 2 hardly ever is correct. IF the alternator is working normally at normal speeds and engine rpms, then that means the alternator is working, and does not need repair. answer 3 is wrong the alternator and battery make up the echarching circuit in a vehicle.with a bad alternator the car can run at idle. when revved up a bad alternator does not supply enough current to run a vehicle and charge a battery when the battery is low,especially in the new vehicles full of electronic crap, the alternator wont keep up with the demand, thereby draining the battery. then the car dies

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! Remove the drivesaft first. then remove the crossmember and the transmission mount. From there, you will want to go ahead and remove any electrical conectors from the transmission. Remove the linkage and/or the MLPS on the side of the transmission. turn the flywheel and remove all of the torque converter bolts. Start taking out the bell housing bolts and remove the starter bolts as well. Be sure to have a jack under the transmission for support as it starts to come back and down from the engine. slowly bring it down enough to pry the dipstick tube free from the transmission. A little lower and the cooler lines should be accessable to be removed. once they are removed, bring the transmission down slowly making sure not to snag on any electrical connections on the way down.. NOTE: in some models it may be nececarry to remove a portion of the exhaust to remove the transmission..

Macs Transmissions (Houston, TX) 281-394-4951 Macstransmissions@gmail.com

YES. The harness is behind the bumper in proximity of the location of the lights.

Does the cable release under the rear seat release the hatch/ If not the cable is bad.

Not sure, But These are some places to check, Fuse Switch release mechanism, Good luck, I usually do not answer questions I don't know an answer for, But, I suspect that you will not get any other responses to this question.

You will probably need a special tool available from most auto parts stores. The tool should be flat and you hold it against the door panel and then slide it behind the window crank until it comes in contact with the clip that holds the window crank in place. The clip fits in a slot and has some tension, so it may fly a short distance when released. After the clip is removed, the window crank should just pull off. To reinstall, just reverse the procedure and use the tool to push the clip back in the groove. It just pops off. No tools required, just pull on it.

If I knew what you were working on I might be able to help more. On most cars and trucks with electric fans the fuse can be located in one of two places. check your owners manual for the location of the fuse. If the fuse is good, your on to the next step. The temp. sensor most likely "Calls" for the fans to come on through the "Computer." If this is the case then you may have a bad Relay. The "Computer" cannot control a high current device such as a fan, directly. Most manufacturers put a Relay somewhere in the Engine Compartment that the "Computer" engages, thus causing the Fans to come on. If the Fuse is Good and the Realy tests good then you need to look at the sensor itself. In most cases trying to test the sensor causes damage. If you determine or "approximate" that the sensor is at fault then just go to your auto parts store and buy a new one. They aren't that expensive. If you get back to me with the Year, Make, and Model, I may be able to get a little more specific.

Hire a professional technician!

Hire a professional technician!

From BLUESTG: All the door lock actuators are the same. They are labeled front, back, left, and right for the bracket that is put on them to attach it to the door. So you can buy any door actuator and just reuse the bracket in you current door. Just remove the rear door panel, it is held in place by plastic push in pins. So you may have to pry it a little to get it off. Reach up a pull out the connecting rod from actuator to the lock. Drill out the two rivits. Lower acturator and disconnect the wiring. Transfer bracket to new actuator. Connect wiring. install with new rivits, but I recomend short screws. The rivits tend to elongate after a lot of actuations. Attach rod from the lock. Test, and push on the door cover.

It goes to the ac/heater control head.

According to Haynes, this represents a misfire in cylinder 6.

about 1 foot