Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

It's not too hard. Then again, it's not too easy either

Could be a vacuum leak in or at the power brake booster

left of the thermostat in the intake behind the alternator 1 wire on it white connector on 5.2L

39 psi plus/minus 5

try turning the ignition on(leaving vehicle off) and press the manual override button that is installed inside the vehicle once(if not, press the button keep it press and turn on the igniion).the light should go off. and you'll be set.

There are 2 issues that need to be looked at in this case. Procure a can of CRC MAF cleaner from a FLAPS. Follow the directions and clean the MAF sensor. The GM sensors get dirty and that confuses the computer. Second clean the Idle air controller with carburettor (Berkebile 2+2 or equivalent) cleaner. Also clean the manifold passages where the IAC lives. If this doesn't fix the issue replace the IAC unit. (NAPA part about $60).

first remove the serpentine belt there is a tension pulley that you will see located on the left side of the engine. loosen the nut on the tension pulley and you will be able to remove the belt. once the belt is removed you will see the power steering pump has a big pulley on the front with three holes located on it. align one of the holes on the pulley with each of the three bolts that hold the power steering pump to the power steering pump engine mount bracket

remove the hoses from the power steering pump one will unscrew off the top of the pump(the high pressure side) the low pressure side is a bit more tricky as it is very very very easily broken. either cut the line and replace it when you replace the pump or else try and remove the end that is not attached to the pump on the low pressure side if you can. I usually just trim off about an inch of the hose just before it attaches to the pump with a pair of cutters. be aware that when you do so that power steering fluid will go everywhere and have a can or something to catch it in and a rag to clean up what slops out.

after you get the pump off put the whole dripping thing in a bucket or some other oil resistant container and take it to the automotive store and swap it for the core charge on a new power steering pump and buy more power steering fluid, make sure that you have them swap out the belt pulley and put it on the new pump for you and that you take the dipstick/cap when you swap out the old pump one for the new one. once you get back, take off any factory caps (they are usually red) from the pump where the hoses attach. now attach the pump back to the engine mount bracket and reattach the serpentine belt then reattach the hoses and retension the belt pulley make sure that you put power steering fluid back into the pump and top it off. then fire up the engine and make sure that you twist the steering wheel all one way and then all the other way then kill the engine and top off the power steering fluid again.

also i would like to say that (the poorly made piece of cast aluminum between the pump and the engine) the power steering pump mount bracket is prone to cracking and or breaking leading to the serpentine belt coming off from the engine and leaving you with a broken power steering pump mount bracket and bolts broken off in the engine block (I had my own power steering mount bracket made out of good ole steel) to fix the problem :) have fun

NP243

i have the same problem i think it has to do with the fuse box in rear seat. the whole driver door doesnt work . only the light and speaker, but i can do anythin except in passenger . i exchanged the modules ,now im goin to check the fuses in the back seat i have the same problem i think it has to do with the fuse box in rear seat. the whole driver door doesnt work . only the light and speaker, but i can do anythin except in passenger . i exchanged the modules ,now im goin to check the fuses in the back seat

If you are asking then it is probably best you have it replaced by a mechanic. This is fairly involved and you have ample opportunity to mess it up. on my 94 jgc limited, wi 5.2 v8, the new pump and labour together cost me $300 CAD .. if you look around you can probably find a good mechanic for a good price. Dealerships often charge twice what a good independent mechanic charges.

You need to provide more info .... what is the engine in your vehicle, does it have AC (this is a pain to work around on the v8) see if you can find a good shop manual (NOT A HAYNES BOOK) it should run you around $100 CAD and if you plan to do the work yourself then it is essential (BTW this is what most dealer mechanics work from anyway) Consider this an investment because a repair done wrong may cost you much more later on

It is NOT hard to replace this water pump. On the 5.2L 318c.i engine, there is nothing other than the fan and fan clutch attached to it. The only pain in the neck is the "Bypass" hose on top that goes to the thermostat. You need a pair of needlenose vise grips (good ones, not junk) to work the clamp up high enough to let go of the pump neck. The rest of it is simple. You want complicated? Try a 1984 Camaro Z-28 water pump! Everything on the front of the engine is bracketed to THAT baby. Anyone who can hold a wrench, should be able to follow the decent directions in the Haynes manual ($14.95US)and replace this pump. DIY for approx. $100US total. $65 water pump, $14.95 book, $20 various gaskets and sealers. I would recommend replacing hoses and thermostat while doing this repair, since you've got the fluid out and thet are relatively cheap.Good Luck!!

No, it is the lever only that is next to your shifter.

The light is on because the coolant level is low. The sensor is located inside the reservoir tank on the passenger side near the firewall. Fill the reservoir tank to the appropriate level ("HOT" or "COLD") with the proper 50/50 antifreeze mix. This should shut off the light. It may come on again after a short period of operation and cool down cycle if the level insided the engine is severely low.

I own the same vehicle and I always have a warning that my coolant sensor is bad. The following is not MY answer, it is something that I read while trying to figure out why my Jeep does all the quirky things that it does.

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The VIC (vehicle information center) has some issues with the solder connections between the display board, and the CPU board. They have a flexible connector between the boards, that is "wave soldered" at the factory. Due to some quality issues, units from 1996-1998 have some connections that didn't receive the full amount of solder required for reliable connection. Pin 14, which connects to a pink wire on the electrical harness is the culprit. Once that connection is secured, the false "Coolant Sensor Failure" will go away. That sounds very technical, but if you have even the most rudimentary soldering skills, you can fix it with a 30 minute investment of time, for free. Google "removing the VIC" for more detailed information about what panels must come off to get the unit out- it's a bit involved, as it requires removal of the dash storage compartment door. I won't cover that here... Once the unit is out, unscrew the 6 Torx screws holding the unit together. Once the screws are out, the unit can be split in half like a clamshell. In between the two circuit boards are a ribbon cable, with fairly stiff wires in it. The problem lies in the solder connections of the riibbon cable, to the boards. Under a magnifying glass, you may be able to see one or more "cold solder" joint connections. These look like a little silver mountain, but some may be missing some solder, or be a very dull color- not the bright shiney connection of it's neighbors. I chose to heat all of the connections one at a time, and add a tiny bit more solder to each. Once putting the unit back together, and re-installing, I haven't had any further issues. The only other alternative is to either ignore the message center, or purchase a VIC from some place like E-Bay, or a junkyard.

yes. parts from a 93 to 97 model are mostly interchangable

If the shift lever on the floor won't move to engage there is most likely a linkage problem.

If the linkage seems to move and you shift the lever under the dash from 2wd to 4wd and the transfer case does not engage look for a vacuum problem. the lines can be very brittle and break easily. There is a vacuum motor on the transfer case that must work in order to engage the 4wd. if all of these seem to work then the problem is likely to be internal.

IF YOUR TALKING ABOUT THE OVERHEAD DISPLAY. GET IT TO THE KILOMETER, THEN HOLD THE BOTTONS IN ON EACH SIDE OF THE PANNEL TILL IT BEEPS..
HOPE IT HELPS

This info in in the owner's manual and under the hood on a placard.

Even after pushing the overdrive cancel button again ? to allow the overdrive feature On my Ford Explorer with the column shift automatic , the overdrive switch is on the end of the gear selector lever

This is a common problem for Chrysler products with A/C evaporator leaks. First step: locate round plastic housing of A/C condensate drain under passenger dash by pulling up carpet. This will be near the floor-firewall angle corner in a vertical orientation. Drill a small hole ( 1/2 to 3/8) in the middle of the housing and get a matching rubber plug to later close this hole. Into the hole insert a long wire such as a coat hanger to dislodge any dirt or road debris. The A/C condensate should drain into the square frame rail on the passenger side of the vehicle, and when in use, cause a puddle of water under that side of the Jeep. After clearing the drain, plug the hole you drilled and perhaps secure the plug with water proof glue.

If this fails (as it did on my Jeep) - take an ample amount of water proof glue/caulk and caulk all around the base of the plastic housing where it mounts on the fire wall. After time the original rubber seal breaks on the A/C condensate drain, and water leaks into the interior. This is a common design flaw with Chrysler.

It may take various caulk applications and test runs with the A/C to determine if the leak is sealed.

No the bolt pattern for the jeep is 4 1/2" and the regal 4 3/4"

I just had the same problem with my 1996 Lumina APV. I removed the rear speaker cover, removed the speaker, and reached in and found the linkage on that particular side to open (if both sides won't open, you'll need a helper to click off at the same time). Dunno if yours is the same.

Hi... Try looking under the driver side dashboard or under the hood next to the battery for a after market alarm fuse. If you happen to find one PULL the fuse out (do NOT cut the wire's) and the alarm system should be disabled. I drive a tow truck and I run into this problem all the time. Hope this helps. additional info: after reading your question several times it seems that your scenario is that you left your keys in the car then walked away locking the car with the remote which you then lost while away. I mean, if you had the key with you then you just unlock the door and go right? If you lock your keys in your car you have several options: call the police, call a locksmith, or break the smallest window you can find that will get you in. If there was a magic door unlock button on the outside of the car that would kinda defeat the purpose of the alarm and lock.

Next time, add some more detail to your question, but FIRST, check your tranny fluid level. When the transmission fluid level is low, your vehicle will start to act REAL funky and make weird noises and your question may hint at low fluid level. If it's not that, take a close look at what the fluid looks like and smells like. And then schedule for an appointment with a trusted mechanic to check out your transmission looked at. Maybe, you just need band adjustment or fluid replaced because it's old fluid and worn out.

Unscrew the screw holding the lens on. Remove the lens and reflector assembly. Twist the rubber bulb holder to remove it from the lens/reflector. Pull the bulb straight out.

Replace the bulb.

Installation is opposite of above.