Mazda

Removal

1. Remove hub cap/dust cover.

Tip: If you do not have an impact wrench (air operated gun), you may want to remove the center axle nut at this point. Removing this nut with the wheel still on and before jacking up the vehicle, will make it much easier and give you enough leverage to get it loose with a regular ratchet or breaker bar (recommended). You may have access to the axle nut without removing the wheel. If you do not have access, you can remove the wheel and put the spare tire/wheel on. The spare wheel has a very large center hole and gives you access to the center axle nut. With the vehicle back on the ground, you can put the breaker bar with the proper size axle nut socket, on the nut and loosen it. Then jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel.

2. Jack up vehicle and support properly. **We know you know, but be very careful. You should always put a jack stand under the vehicle and use that to supprt the vehicle, not the jack. Also you should also use wheel ckocks to prevent the vehicle from accidentally rolling. If you are doing do-it-yourself repairs often, it is wise to buy good quality tools and equipment. This can help get the job done quicker and certainly safer.

3. Remove lug nuts using 19mm socket. Remove wheel and set aside.

4. Remove 2 caliper mounting bolts using a 15mm socket. Set caliper aside. Do not let it hang from rubber brake hose.

5. Remove 2 caliper mount bolts using 15mm socket Set caliper mount aside.

6. Remove brake rotor by sliding it off and set aside. NOTE: If the brake rotor has never been removed, their may be 2 small screws or retainers holding it in place. Remove these and the rotor will slide off. If it is stuck, you can lightly tap it with a hammer.

7. Remove 3 hub mounting bolts using 13mm socket. These are located on the inside of the steering knuckle next to the outer CV boot. A 3/8's drive ratchet with swivel and extension is best for this. Also if you are having trouble, look closely at how you have it jacked up. You may be able to reposition the jack and change the angle of the axle. If you have it jacked up under the control arm, you still have the suspension compressed. If you jacked it up by the frame rail, the suspension is opened up and may give you a better angle. Again be very careful with the jack and always use a jack stand for support. You can always use more then one jack stand to help as a safety also.

8. Remove axle nut using 1 5/16″ or 34mm socket.

9. Unhook and then unplug the ABS sensor.

10. Remove hub assembly. Be careful to make sure the axle splines are free from the hub. Once you have the axle nut off you should be able to push the axle in towards the engine with the bottom of the palm of your hand. If it is stuck, you can rethread the axle nut 1-2 threads, then place the socket back on and tap it with a hammer. This is mainly to assure the axle does nte get pulled out while pulling off the hub. The hub may also require a slight tap with a hammer or very rarely a puller to get the hub loose. Hit the hub and pry with a screwdriver or small prybar until hub comes out. (Most Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts stores will allow you to borrow a puller if needed.)

11. Clean mounting area with a wire brush so new hub slides on easily. Make sure their is no rust or material that may cause the hub to not sit flush.

12. Install new hub assembly.

13. Use thread locker on the 3, 13mm mounting bolts and tighten. **GM recommends replacing these bolts every time they are removed. This is because the torque can be affected by re-using the bolts. The threads stretch when the are originally installed/removed and they can never really be torqued properly again. Also it is strongly recommended to replace the axle nut for the same reason**

14. Hook up the new sensor plug.

15. Install the axle nut using a 1 5/16″ or 34mm socket. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Do not over torque or under torque this nut. Also it is strongly recommended to never use an impact wrench to tighten this nut. Please tighten with a torque wrench to 118 ft. Lbs.(Other year and model vehicle torques specs may differ, please email us if you would like to know yours. Over or under torqueing this nut is the number one cause of premature bearing failure!!!!!!( It is also recommended to replace this nut as the threads will usually be stretched from being installed and removed. Threads will be stretched if installed with an impact wrench and also the bearing will be squeezed excessively which will cause premature failure.

16. Slide on the brake rotor.

17. Use a tiny bit of thread locker on the 2, 15mm caliper mount bolts and tighten.

18. Install the caliper mount bolts using a 15mm socket.

19. Install the wheel using a 19mm socket (Torque lug nuts with torque wrench to 100 Ft. Lbs.) and press hub dust cover into place.

Simply Adjustment 1

The hand brake adjustment is inside the plastic cover just over the hand brake lever. Use a Philips screw driver to unscrew the short screw then pull the 2-part covers apart then remove. Look down toward the floor direction and you will see a cable ending with a slot like end. To tighten the parking brake, use a large flat end screw driver, turn clockwise. The manual suggests 7~9 clicks to lock the rear brake.

Simple Adjustment 2

The hand brake or parking brake is supposed to be self-adjusting. Thus if you turn the adjustment screw clockwise and you pulled the handbrake lever with all your might still unable to lock the rear wheels you can do the next thing before getting your hands dirty.

Turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise, yes loosen it. I suggest you put the car on the drive way with a slight incline or decline when you do this. Pump the brake several times. Now pull up the handbrake while letting go of the pedal. The lever should be easier to pull. Else repeat loosen-and-pump procedure. Then use the screw driver to turn the adjuster clockwise so that the rear wheel will lock at 7~9 clicks. Put back the plastic covers for the lever and replace the screw.

If the easy fix does not work, something is probably wrong. Read the following:

Adjustment 3 (Gloves and wrenches apply)

There is a bolt with a 14mm head on the back of each rear caliper. Actually there are two bolts of this size, one holds the bracket for the handbrake, one unscrews to gain access to the caliper adjuster. Pull the one covering the adjuster (don't worry, no fluid should come out!) and you will find an Allen type adjusting screw. It takes a 4mm wrench to turn it. The technique is to (with the handbrake off) turn the adjuster in (clockwise) while rotating the brake rotor by hand. As soon as it stops or you feel a heavy drag, stop and back the adjuster off 1/3 turn.

Make sure that the rotor now turns freely. Reinstall the 14mm bolt and repeat the procedure on the other side.

*If* your Allen bolt strips.....Don't panic! You can use a magnet or a snap ring pliers (stick the points in the socket of the Allen bolt and expand to grab the adjuster) to get the damaged adjuster out. When you get it out you will see that the teeth on the adjuster are ground up. Either file or grind the damaged end 'til it's cleaned up, grease it up and reinstall. A little spray grease whenever you're adjusting is always a good idea and will help prevent this problem in the first place.

Also:

Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.

You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???

Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.