It is relatively simple for any car:

1) Disconnect the battery. This is incredibly important. Do not skip this step.
2) Disconnect the wiring from the back of the old alternator.
3) Remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
3a) If the belt is serpentine look for a spring loaded tension pulley. Push on this and slip the belt off a convenient pulley. The entire belt will go slack.
3b) If you have individual belts the alternator should be mounted on a slotted bracket. Loosen the bolt to this bracket and the alternator should move so you can get the belt off.
4) Remove the old alternator. Depending on the car this is where it gets tricky. Sometimes they bury the thing so well you have to remove other parts of the engine to get it off. Take your time.
5) Insert the new alternator and replace anything else you had to take off.
6) Put the belt back on the alternator and tension it, if necessary.
7) Connect the wiring to the alternator
8) Reconnect the battery.
9) Take a measurement of the system voltage with the motor off.
10) start the motor.
11) Take a measurement of the system voltage. It should be around 14V. If your battery is very dead this may not be the case. Compare to the above measurement. If the voltage is rising to around 14V, it is working.

To get to the alternator, you have to get it from the bottom of the car. Make sure you disconnect the battery! I just did the job today (2-13-06) with another person. You don't need 2 people, but it helps tremendously. It's rather tight in some of the locations, but it's definitely workable.

First, you must remove the front passenger side wheel and place the car up on Jack stands. It helps to have the whole front elevated as you will be working underneath the car most of the time. Then remove the plastic guards that are behind the wheel. They are held in place by two plastic pins (the anchor type pins).

Once the car is up, refer to the diagram under the hood that gives the serpentine belt routing. You'll see the Tension wheel that you need to move. It's really easy to get to from the wheel axle level. Use a 14mm wrench (NOT A SOCKET!, it's too small of a space to fit the barrel of the socket). Grab onto the bolt head on the wheel and turn clockwise. The whole assembly then moves down, as it's on a spring. That will loosen the Serpentine belt. If you have another person, have them remove the serpentine belt from one of the pulleys as you are holding down the tension pulley. Once the belt is off, ease the tension pulley back into place. You can now pull the belt off all the pulleys.

The alternator is held in by two bolts. they are 13mm bolts, you can use a socket for these. The top bolt is harder to find and easier to reach and loosen if you do it from the bottom of the car. It takes time to loosen, but it can be done. The bottom is a long bolt with a nut on the end. You'll need a 13mm wrench and a 13mm socket for this. From under the car looking at the alternator, place the wrench on the left side of the bolt and the socket wrench on the right. The right side is a nut that holds the bolt in place. Remove the nut and pull the bolt out to the left.

Next, there is a plastic guard that protects the wiring. You can remove that by using a 10mm ratchet on the bolt that is on the left hand side (from underneath the car) of the alternator. it sits just above the grounding wire. Remove that bolt. If you have someone helping, have them reach through the top of the car and hold the alternator in place while pushing the guard up. It is also held by a little clip, so if you push up you'll unlatch it. Pull the guard off and set aside.

Next, remove the grounding wire on the side with a 10mm socket wrench. Then unclasp the clip holding the wiring to the alternator with a flat head screw driver. You'll see how the clip is removed when you see it.

Next, remove the alternator. It may be stuck in place, so have someone come from the top or from the bottom to pound one of the sides where the long bolt was. Once free, remove it through the wheel well.

Once you have this done, just reverse the directions to install the new one. It's fairly easy once you've removed it, to see how it's done.

Hook up the battery and start the car!

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One possibility is the Tata Nano (4-passenger city car), which had a 2009 base price of 142,000 to 195,000 INR ($2800-$3900 USD).

The Tata Pixel concept car, first introduced in 2011, had a lower base, at 120,000 INR ($2500 USD). It was scheduled for marketing in mid-2012.
Tata Nano-Price:$2500
You can buy a few cars that are pretty good price. You can go for a compacted car that is small and good on gas.

NONE are best!

Without going into extensive detail here's what you need to know about aftermarket oil additives: There are basically two types of additives used, either Teflon based with PTFE (like Slick 50) or Chlorinated based (like Dura Lube) with some type of carrier, usually a paraffin based carrier or other mineral oil. Some have extremely large amounts of Moly, Zinc or Phosphorus, all extreme pressure agents which are detrimental to a motor oils proper function in the amount that they use. Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine. Teflon must be heated up to about 800 deg. F to get it to stick to anything for friction reducing purposes, just like the Teflon on a frying pan, yet in your engine all those suspended microscopic colloidal Teflon particles do is gradually attach to you oil pick-up screen and reduce oil flow to your critical components as well as reducing the oil flow in other critical internal engine passages by attaching themselves to the passageway walls. In addition, as your oil filter filters out some of these suspended Teflon particles, your filter flow rate will be reduced which may eventually become restricted and default in to by-pass mode, which means unfiltered oil will be flowing through your engine. Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it with some type of Teflon, Moly, Zinc or Phosphorus & you can reduce the friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil and subjected to heat forms hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is extremely detrimental to you internal engine parts. Get the picture? That's it in a nutshell. Bottom line is: When using a properly formulated motor oil you do not need any additives whatsoever and additionally, the additives you may put in can react negatively with the additives the oil company carefully blended in. Do yourself a favor and stay away from aftermarket oiladditives, regardless of how appealing the bogus claims they make in their advertising are!

Check the Federal Trade Commission website, use the search box to find news about Aftermarket Oil Additives