Saturn S-Series

i have replaced the fan, ( it does work when i attatch the code reader), the ac switch light does turn on, i have checked the fuses, all seem to be working, i am stumpted.

crank sensor is bad

bad connection from the battery or alternator

The easiest way to see if a head gasket is blown is to check the oil, if it is light brown and milky looking then the head gasket is blown.

My 1998 Saturn would always overheat. I had replaced the radiator twice and all of the hoses but it continued to happen. The people at Saturn did not know the problem. I brought it to a raditor place and the replaced the gauge that reads the temperature and fixed the problem. The gauge was reading at a much lower temperature than the car really was so the fan would not turn on to cool down the car causing it to overheat. This might be your problem.

There is a chemical that can be added to the coolant that will expose exhaust fumes. The head gasket may be fine, but overheating will endanger it.

overheating could also be caused by a bad engine coolant temperature sensor, or a bad thermostat, possibly even a bad PCM.

** Only the top answer to this question actually ANSWERS the question.

No, the 98 Saturn SL2 series does not have a self-adjusting clutch like the 97 model. Saturn made changes to the clutch system for the 98 model year, which may require manual adjustment at routine intervals. Be sure to consult the owner's manual or a mechanic for specific maintenance instructions.

The cam chain tension on a 1996 Saturn SL1 cannot be reset from outside of the motor. It will have to be accessed inside the motor. It is also a good idea to check and make sure it is not simply a broken timing guide.

The gas you left in the carborator has turned into bubble gum..shut the fuel off and remove the carb..spry it with carb cleaner....and while you have the gas line off the carb...drain the tank and start with fresh fuel...check your oil and next year put fuel stabilizer in it at the end of the year... Dont do it at the end of the year....each time you buy gas for your lawn & garden equipment,always use stabilizer, always, you never know when is going to be the last time you are going to use it for the season, and gas only has a 30 day shelf life...only ! Stabilizer or not, if I don't plan on using gasoline-operated lawn and garden equipment for at least 30 days, I drain the fuel tank and then run the motor until all the gas is gone. The way I see it, no gas = no problem.

The single click, that you hear when the starter switch is operated, is the solenoid making the high tension connection to the starter motor. If the starter motor doesn't turn over, you will need to check both the battery feed to the solenoid and the feed from the solenoid to the starter motor (this is typically a short length of braided cable). I have known this cable to corrode through. If it has, the easiest remedy, is to replace the entire starter motor.

if it's anything like mine, turn radio off, press the 'set' button, and use the <> buttons for hours and minutes.

I have a suggestion. You might want to check your vacuum hose, and vacuum switch. My 4WD was inoperable. If you don't use your 4wd enough you can get dry rought on the hose. That may need to be placed, or check your vacuum switch which is located on the driver side in the transfer case. Might need relplaced, or take it off, clean it reteflon it, and tighten in back down. As for the clunking Might want to check it out at a Transmission shop.

Replace the engine coolant temperature sensor. Your car has two, replace the one with the 2 wire connector

You don't fix it, you replace it. Replace the belt according to the schedule in your owner's manual. If it breaks and your engine is an interference engine, you will 95% of the time have damage. You will know the extent of the damage when the engine is torn down. ---------- Saturns do not have a timing belt, they have a chain, as stated in the question. Symptoms of bent valve will show on a leakdown test or engine simply will not run.

UPDATED, see below...

There are a/c clutch removal tools available at most auto parts stores. The process as experienced by someone repairing a Hummer is shown on this page:

http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/hvac/airconditioning/clutchPullyService.htm

You should be able to find the right tool by going to a local auto parts store. If not, at least this gives you something to look for online.

UPDATE: Since writing this I've found you don't need a special tool, if your compressor is the same as on a 2002 Saturn SL which I've taken apart this weekend. This model uses a Zexel compressor (which I've written about in comments on another question), and the thing comes apart without arcane tools.

Remove the central screw from the front, pry off the clutch plate with a flat screwdriver (yes, according to GM), and then use a 3-jaw puller like you can get at an auto parts store, and a suitable deep-well socket to remove the pulley if necessary.

IMPORTANT: Use the deep-well socket to avoid placing ANY pressure on the compressor's shaft when you're using the puller; otherwise you'll damage your compressor and the shaft seal will be breached (i.e. refrigerant venting all over you). Check the clutch coil for continuity at the connector pins with a voltmeter set to measure resistance -- it should be pretty low. If it's very high or doesn't change when you touch the meter probes to the pins, then the coil wire is damaged somewhere. Also you can try putting 12V to the coil manually, and checking for a strong magnetic pull. If the coil is bad, remove three screws from the inside of the coil at the front, and it falls right off. The three screws are a bit hard to break free, so be sure to press into them hard with the screwdriver to keep from stripping them as you turn. (Why did they use Phillips screws for this?)

In most cases when a vehicle heater that has been working properly in the past begins to blow cold air the cooling system is low on coolant.

It could also mean that your heater core is clogged. A good coolant system flush might take care of this, otherwise you may have to have it replaced.

Just follow the positive battery cable, not far, and there it is.Under $ 20. to replace.

It's fairly easy to replace. You will be working underneath the car behind the engine. Disconnect the battery. Jack up the car or put on ramps. The starter is on the lower edge of the back side of the engine. You will need to work around the front stabalizer and the rack and pinion assembly but it's manageable. I recommend removing the wires from the starter once it's unbolted. Just don't let it drop with the wires connected as you may damage the plugs or the wires themselves. Might take you 30-45 min. to replace.

check the slave cylinder for cluch when cold try pumping cluch pedal 4 or 5 times then hold depressed and try to start cylinder is by passing must activate nut switch

Follow the short positive battery cable; it will go right to it. I hope this helps you. Mark

this can sometimes be a confusing answer, I will try to clearify it as much as i can. According to Saturn timing specifications, the internal fireing order for the Saturn 1.9L motor, both Single overhead cam, or Twin cam is as follows:

Left to right 1-3-4-2

If you are routing spark plug wires, and need to know the order of wires from the coils to the engine, the order is as follows:

Left to right 4-1-2-3

fan does not kick on . when wired direct, it comes on. could it be the sensor?

I had the same problem with my 04 Ion 3 last winter. Sometimes it would start up normally, and other times nothing but a clicking sound like a dead battery. I replaced the battery but that did not cure it.

My local mechanic was at a loss so I took it to the dealer and it turned out to be part of the anti-theft system that was going bad, I want to say a relay but I don't recall exactly (it is now May). Basically it was not registering that the ignition key was valid. They replaced the part and it has worked fine since.

Oddly enough you could jump start the car and it would work- the dealer told me that jumping the car bypasses the switch. I could only jump start with the cables connected to the battery in the trunk (like you are not supposed to). I never could get it to jump start with the cables connected to the terminals in the engine compartment.

When I described the symptoms to the dealer they seemed to know right away what the problem was. It seems that they have seen it before.

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It depends on what part of the country that you live in. Call a couple of local garages and trim shops for estimates

The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

I wonder if it might be the starter motor not fully disengaging and as soon as the flywheel turns, it's kicking it back.

check battery connections both ends. Also check to make sure the cables have not corroded inside. They may look fine on the surface but bad on the inside. Try starting in neutral to eliminate the safety switch. Hi: Also check and see if any of your accessories such a A.C. compressor are locked up. That'll do it big time. ( Voice of Experience here,,,, LOL ) Oh yes,,, while your at it,,, make sure your engine isn't locked up as well if nothing else is. Jimiwane