Serpentine Belts

This is not a real hard thing to do but can be tricky. Get a manual from the parts store or from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM.

Need to check your idlers and tensioners. You should of replaced them at same time.

VX belt is cogged V-belt

Serpentine Belt Diagram ML320

diagram of ur belt should be right under ur hood..should be a sticker there showning how the belt should fit

Most likely you need to look for a grooved pulley that looks like it may not be related to any parts of the engine,(i.e. the water pump pulley, a/c pulley) this is the tensioner pulley. The tensioner pulley on my '97 GMC 5.7L is located just beneath the alternator. Inorder to relieve the pressure from the "tension arm" find a square opening molded into the pulley arm, and insert a breaker bar to use as a lever for relieving the tension. Some vehicles may need a ratchet and socket in order to move the tensioner arm. With a little effort to relieve the pressure, you can now remove the serpentine belt. Most vehicles will have a diagram in the engine compartment showing the specific route for the belt to go on the pulleys. I've found that the easiest way to install the new belt, is put the belt around all of the pulleys first then lastly on the tensioner pulley.

Replacing the serpentine belt on both V6 & V8 rear drive engine are fairly easy than front wheel drive. The belt is located just between the front of the engine and the radiator. You have plenty of clearance to work. Just need to losen the tension and the belt should come out. Putting the new one is the reverse process.

11 riBs

call a mechanic.

The belts themselves are not tightened but the Pulleys that the belts run can be "tightened" to stretch an aging belt so that it does not squeak, not all pulleys can be tightened. If you live in a warmer climate it is probably your AC belt. If you have a ka24-e (four cylinder engine) your compressor is on the bottom end of your engine, better accessed from underneath truck. on the outside of the belt pulley there should be a bolt attached at two points on a bracket, one point is where the head of the bolt is the other is near the center of the pulley, this is where the bolt grips. tighten the bolt with a PROPER METRIC wrench. the pulley should move towards the head of the bolt, it wont move much but you should be able to notice how much tighter the belt is now. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN you will bend the bracket. tighten a little bit and see if the belt still squeaks, rev the engine up a bit. you can only do this so much before the belt will simply need to be replaced, if you see any cracks or wires coming from the belt you need to replace it!

First and foremost, make sure you have a diagram before removing the old belt. If there isn

Yes, but if you unplug the wiring to the compressor, the pulley will simply idle without causing the compressor to do anything, unless the pulley clutch is faulty and is constantly engaging the compressor, in which case, you will have to bypass the compressor pulley or replace it. If you must bypass the air conditioner, you will need a shorter belt (by at least 12 inches). It is possible that the stock belt for your motor without air conditioning option will fit, try that option first. Otherwise the proper fit will have to be determined by trial and error or use string to trace the new route and measure its length. The new route should be exactly the same except bypassing the compressor.

There is a diagram under the hood on a decal

Yes a loose or badly worn belt will not drive the compressor correctly and then the belt will break

What side do I turn the tensioner to loosen it?

For 4WD - 3.2L V6

1 REMOVAL

- Disconnect the radiator hoses from the engine block.

- Remove the upper fan shroud.

- Remove the fan assembly from the fan idler shaft.

- Slack the "V" belt tensioner hold bolt (front of the pulley)

- Slack the "V" belt tensioner pulley bolt (top of the tensioner & pay attention to the

jam nuts).

- Remove the "V" belt.

- Remove the "V" belt tensioner

- Slack the A/C grooved belt tensioner hold bolt (front of the pulley)

- Slack the A/C grooved belt tensioner pulley bolt (top of the tensioner & pay

attention to the jam nuts).

- Remove the A/C belt.

- Slack the alternator swivel point bolt on alternator top mounting bracket.

- Slack alternator tensioner hold bolt (on the lower bracket and clamping the

alternator lock block to the bracket).

- Slack the alternator grooved belt tensioner (on lower alternator bracket).

- Pry alternator toward engine.

- Remove the alternator belt, which will dislocate the fan pulley, so remove the fan

pulley too.

2 ASSEMBLY of the new alternator belt

- Install the new alternator belt and also the fan pulley on the fan idler shaft

flange. Make sure the fan shaft studs are located in the 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 configuration

and install a temp nut with dummy washers to hold the fan pulley in place.

- Pry the alternator away from the engine.

- Tighten the alternator tensioner hold bolt system in reverse order as you

disassembled it.

- Tighten the alternator grooved belt tensioner so that the belt still has about 5mm

movement when you push it down in the middle between the two most extreme

pulleys.

- From here work in reverse order from the disassembly stage.

- When getting to the point the fan has to be assembled, remove the nut and the

dummy washers, the pulley will stay in place.

- Continue in reverse order.

- When everything is tight and secure, hoses included, fill up with 50/50 antifreeze

and check for leaks.

Did you look at the alternator bearings?Take the belt off and spin the alteranator to see if the bearings are bad.

I just used a 5/8 V-belt ( 5/8 on top x 3/8 high) x 142" long.

there should be a sticker in the engine compartment the shows the routing

The shatter belt is a region in easter europe upon where the borders of several countries are constantly changing.

What is an exact model of your Volvo ?Cause different cars need different belt change...

The CO2 sensor is located between the exhaust manifold and the catalitic converter. Use a good amount of wd 40 or similar product to loosen the sensor from it's location on the exhuaust. You can by a special wrench as the nut on the sensor is larger than 5/8 or 18mm. I used a large vise grip and took my time. Unhook the wire harness connecting the sensor using care not to break the plug. Carefully loosen the sensor. Unpack the sensor cost less than $50. place into position making sure the sensor seats with going in crooked. Mine was at an angle and it took several attempts. Plug in the sensor make sure the wires are clear of the exhaust, unhook your negative on your battery for several seconds to reset the computer and you should be good to go. PS: The sensor for the F150 comes with two different wire lengths. They are identical except for that. When in doubt by the 13" length and tie back any extra.

i have a 2002 dodge dakota sport quad cab 4x4. long name. go with some bigger fuel injectors. a bigger trottle body. with a nice spacer. get some platnuim spark plugs. dont go putting a cold air intake. it really dosent help. some times your stock air box is always going to be the best way to go. thats the easy stuff. now for the more complicated stuff. get some shorty headers. with some flow master supper 40s. run a 3 inch exaust. you could put a cam in it. some thing 400 plus in hight and loop. dont go to big. right around 430 should be fine. put double valve springs, nice rocker roller. most cams come with a set. put a small scoop on the hood the keep the engine cooler. also there is a small curved tube comeing out of your air box. unbolt the box and take it out. you will get a larger amout of air. just make sure your sucking cold air and not hot air. the v8 47 is 235 horse power the 5.9 is 245 horse power. if you do some of these you will notice the truck breaths better. you will get noticably more power.