Toyota 4Runner

drawing power........(means your exceed limit)

Put a used one on from a running one

Of course they don't because they are extremely weird creatures. Of course they don't because they are extremely weird creatures.

Miles or Miles per gallon? My '98 4runner has 175,000 and it's just getting broken in!

The fuel tank on a 1988 Cadillac Sedan DeVille holds approximately 18 gallons of fuel.

Road Runner a Go-Go was created in 1965-02.

If it is equipped with a automatic transmission, then it has one. If your 4 runner has a clutch, then you do not have a torque converter. As a rule of thumb, only automatic's have a torque converter.

I had to replace the fuel/gas cap as the gasket was leaking air & caused the light to go on....Cost me $80 plus.....replace the cap, disposal fee & labor for a simple gas cap & resetting the lights.... Boyntonbaker Florida

around 600 billion

v-6 ENGINE 5.5 u s QUARTS

I have a 92 4Runner and once you open the tailgate, there should be a piece of cloth covered cardboard that is on the inside of the tailgate. you can get a flat head screwdriver or use your hands and just pull it off. Only thing hold that panel in place is some plastic clips, they might break cause of the age of the vehicle, but are very easy to find.

Any will do but there should be a chart in you vehicle which states the perfect match. If this is missing my manuals state several, depending on the area you are driving. If in cold country they recommend a 10-30 oil In hot country a 20-40. This can be regular or synthetic. My personal favorite is a 20 40 since I have an older car and this one fills the oil crevasses best. I did an over haul at 300,000 miles and it showed little wear in the engine. So I must be doing something right. In cold weather I switched to a 10/40.

In older vehicles I would stay away from thin synthetics since they tend to want to flow everywhere. Good tho right. Well except I have found they tend to cause leaking from the front and rear seals and

cause some burning smoke because they also leak past the internal seals on the intake valves. It flows to easy through these old seals. If you did a replacement of these recently it probably works ok tho.

As for brand name I like Valvoline and mobile one. At 300,000 I liked what I saw. Then there are those who would also love the other guys also.

the best way to find out is to go on youtube or you can make it out of match heads by crushing up the powder then making it into a damp paste by adding water and then roll a peice of rolled up paper in it the match heads

You need to pull back the inner fender cover on the rear of the pass front wheel. There are 3 or 4 screws to remove and a couple plastic clips. If you are careful you can pop it off (and later onto) the plastic clips. You will not need to remove the entire inner fender cover, just part of it. It is pliable and strong so you can muscle it out of the way. Hope this helps.

Vacuum hose leaking.

I don't have a 2006 but I have experience with other model Toyotas. I suspect you fill it through the dipstick tube.

I suggest you get a manual on your car as the head torques different on different 4 cyl engines. It will also show you the sequence. the 10 bolts for the head are inside the cylinder head. the rear five bolts or long bolts are torqued to 46 ft. pounds, the front or short bolts are 43 ft. pounds. the sequence is * * * * * 9 5 1 3 7 * * * * * 10 6 2 4 8

I replaced mine a long time ago, so don't remember exactly, but you have to remove the plastic cover on the center council where the shifter is and around the radio itself, I think it can be pulled off, may be screws, like I said long time ago, if it is screws check the area next to your feet for screws, after removing the plastic covers just unscrew the screws holding the radio in place, pull out the radio and disconect the wires.

Assuming you have hydraulic lifters, most do, the process is easy, but messy. Get yourself an extra valve cover. Cut a strip down the center out. Or, go to your parts store, and get a set of oil deflecters. DO NOT cover the headers/exhaust manifolds with a towel, or rag, as fire will ensue. You will have to let the oil burn off. Anyway, start the motor. Using a 9/16ths socket, start at one end, loosening the valve until it begins to clatter. Re tighten it slowly, until the clatter just stops. This is called zero lash. Then, from this point, you will tighten the valve, or rocker arm, between a half, and a full turn. Go a quarter turn at a time, and very slowly, so you don't crash a valve into the piston. I would go three quarters tight. The most proper way, is to use a vaccuum gauge, and tighten to maximum vaccuum. If your motor is on the stand, or out of the car, turn the motor until that push rod is all the way down, loosen, or tighten the rocker arm intil the push rod just looses slack, zero lash, then go a half turn, and re adjust once you start the motor. Chuck....

SAE 10w30

Yes... unless it is a high quality gel battery (and then, yes).

The lead from the plates drops off. Without seed lead on the plates, recharging the battery does not reform the lead on the plates. Thus, every time one of the many plates in the battery is barren of lead, the battery will not fully charge that plate. If it happens frequently enough, all the plates will not accrue lead and thus will not hold a charge.

I know this has been awhile so you probably have it fixed but Ill take a stab at it anyway. The locking mechanism can fail and the only thing you can do is call a lock smith. But, before you do look at 2 things. Several models have a lock button on the steering column that you must push to release the key. This can loose a pin and not work. Also it needs to be in the off position. You might need to remove the cover to see it. Some have an ACC position is is all the way counter clock wise. You need to be in the off position one click in the clockwise direction to get the key out. Lastly if the steering column is locked it can have pressure on the key not allowing it to move into the right position to come out. Just apply a turning force against the wheel and then try and turn it.

If this came on recently then I would say one of several things. Belt cam off or broke from the power steering unit. The fluid is low in the unit, which could have a leak somewhere. The power steering unit is bad.

If this is just slightly hard to turn then it could be an indication of low air pressure in the tires.

If all this is OK then you could have a linkage problem under the vehicle. For that take it to an alignment shop and have it checked. Having the linkage break when making a turn is very inconvenient if not dangerous.

4.8 qts. if an AUTO 4.5 if a manual.

No, but he must run in the "runners box" when he reaches that spot down the first base line, or he may be called out for interference.