Volvo 240

Don't take this in place of a real technician, but here are a few things I've learned after recently replacing the alternator on my '89 240dl. They are probably a bit different in the details but most alternators are somewhat similar. On mine it is on the lower left hand side of the engine block as you face the front of the car. Make sure that you actually need the alternator as there are a few other things that can cause it to seem like the alternator is broken. When you do find the alternator, and you are sure you want to work on it, be sure to first turn the radio off (microprocessor) and also disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. On my car, the alternator is held on by 2 bolts which are not difficult to take off. Don't lose these. Also as a general note be sure to Write Down Where Everything came from. This will save you headaches, trust me. On the back, my alternator was hooked up by three wires-power, dash light, and ground. When you get the replacement make sure these are all where they were on the old one. If you take the old one in for a core exchange, go ahead and get the shop to put the pulley on for you, and be sure to check the back of the new alternator to make sure that it has the same voltage regulator as well as any other misc. plugs. Once you get the new alt. in, the things to check are 1. wires are on correctly, cleanly and tightly 2. belts are tensioned to spec 3. bolts are tight. Then hook the battery back up and turn the car on. Check to make sure that the warning lights come on and then go out. If they stay on, something is not right. Finally, make sure that the alternator is actually working by checking the voltage of the battery while the engine is at about 2000 rpm with the headlights on. the voltage should read between 13 and 15 volts. This shows that the alternator is charging the battery. A couple final notes: Don't take this advise without consulting other sources. *Make sure* you have a fresh battery. Good luck!

The mirrored glass can be changed quickly by inserting a small flat screwdriver into the elongated hole underneath the black housing.You will feel a slot up inside.You lever the slot about a 1/4 inch and it will release the glass.Using a piece of tape on the glass as a handle, you can pull it straight out of the black housing.(Practice in the salvage yard!) Reverse to re-install.

There are two. One in-tank- accessible by a trapdoor in the back under the carpet. The second is under the vehicle-attached to the frame on the drivers side under the back seat area- should have a fuel filter next to it. If the car is running its probably making a buzzing noise- as most do at that age...

Well you open it with your hands... Seriously how can you not open a hood

Close to driver's left foot (just ahead of the driver's door); small vertical panel with a plastic peg/screw thingy at the bottom

Under the fan cowling. With the bonnet open it's on the left side. Gray relay clipped to the underside of the fan shroud with the part number 3 545 803 on it.

If the car won't start check the wiring to it too as it corrodes.

under an behind ash tray remove ash tray an all will be answered

Front seat: Put seats all the way back, remove bolts in leading edge of front seat rails. Move seats all the way forward, remove plastic plug from side of protective cover over rear of seat rails to expose rear bolts. Remove bolts, lift seat. Most of these cars have a spring from the base of the seat to the floor which will be visible when you life the seat. Unhook spring from floor. Disconnect plug for seat belt warning system under passenger seat. Rear seat: Push very hard on the front edge of the bottom of the back seat, right where it meets the floor. you need to push between where your legs would be if you were sitting in the seat, and lift. When front clips are loosened, you will find seat is held by a clip at the rear. Lever spring off clip welded to floor and seat base will come out. Top is held in by two eye hooks on far outer edges. These will be visible when you have removed the base. Bend the metal tangs so that the eye hooks can slide off them. Then lift seat directly up towards rear window to unseat hooks behind seat. Once loose it can be removed from the vehicle. Given this is such a pain of a job, make sure when you refit seats that you don't get the belts stuck behind it. It sucks to have to do this twice! Hope that helps!

SIGNAL RELAY IS A BOX BEHIND THE LH CONSOLE PLASTIC NEAR THE GAS PEDAL ! Remove panel 1 Phillips and 1 odd fastener plastic ! Look behind the carpet near the front away from the pedal !! KM

Depends on the motor. According to the Engish Haynes manual. B21 and B23 will not, B230 will.

The firing order is 1 3 4 2 for the 4 cylinder engine

in the center console, under the Radio

I can only comment on my own 1984 240dl. If the points are faulty this can cause this, or if the gap is too small or large between them. I would remove the distributor cap and get someone to turn the engine over. If there's a spark at the points this suggests the distributor cap is faulty or maybe the ht leads but I'd be surprised if all of them are faulty. If the points look ok and the gap is correct I would check the condenser and also further back at the coil. Try going back and looking at the distibutor cap. It it where the spark is generated. Make sure you have the plugs connected in the engines firing order.

It may be that your alternator is overcharging and causing the the battery acid to expand and blow out the filler cap vents. Use a volt meter to check the charging system when running. It should be in the area of 13.8 to 14.2 volts max. If the voltage exceeds these values, the voltage regulator may be deffectivie or the alternator could also be defective.

4 cylinder petrol 1.3.4.2 6 cylinder diesel 1.5.3.6.2.4 In both cases no 1 cylinder is nearest the front of the vehicle.

When working on anything electrical, a person should have a diagram. The diagram for the alternator wiring for a 1985 Volvo 240 can be found in its maintenance manual.

Check your timing belt. It may have broken or jumped a tooth. If it looks worn, replace it, and be sure to retime the sprockets when you do it.

I would say that a short in the wiring or a defective wiper switch is more likely to cause this than the motor.

depends on the year. my 740(1990) has none!

That is a matter of opinion.

Volvo S60 or V70 R would be mine, the engines in those are phenominal

The C30 has the looks

the S80 has the comfort

the V70 has the practicality

if you are looking at older models, go for the 850. They are uber reliable and safe, and they have a nice driving feel.

Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose Drain about 1 Gallon of coolant from the radiator

REmove this housing

Note how thermostat is installed

Clean both surfaces

Replace thermostat and gasket

Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air lock

Start engine and check for leaks

Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on

Re-check coolant level

I have seen 3 ways radios in 240 are held in and the worse is later models. This has a flat piece of metal sticking out of the back of the radio that fits into a bracket under the dash. The flat metal has a barb that Sticks down so that when the radio is pushed in place the barb goes in front of the bracket and locks it in place. You need to remove the glove box and reach behind the radio with pliers and squeeze the barb up so the flat piece can be backed out of the bracket. Good luck.

The next worse is having spring catches along the sides of the radio so a flat piece of metal needs to be slid along the radio to release it.

wires on the starter are criss crossed

Probably because of the missing insulation from the wire leading from the solonoid on the transmission, causing the bare wire to contact a metal surface, thus creating a short circuit and blowing the fuse.