Volvo S60

no fuel cut off on Volvo s60

any shop or dealer should be able to reset it, they have to plug into your car just under and to the left of your steering wheel, using a handheld to pull and clear any codes. hope this helps. or try this : 1. Turn Ignition key to position1 2. Press and hold reset button for the trip meter 3.Switch ignition ON 4. Keep Depressed for 10 secs. Service indicator will flash. Release reset button within 5 secs. There will be an audible signal when reset completes & service indicator goes out. * if reset button is not released within 5 secs , the service interval indicator will not be reset but will stop flashing. Good Luck!

First used in February of 1977 on Volvo B21 four cylinder engines, the Lambda-Sond system was an emissions reduction system which used three key components working together: 1) Lambda Sensor. An exhaust gas composition sensor to monitor chemical composition of engine exhaust; especially NOx(oxides of nitrogen) and feed data to the engine control system. Essentially, an oxygen sensor positioned in the exhaust pipe before the catalytic convertor. 2) A feedback loop providing information to the engine control computer that enabled more precise control the fuel injection system. 3) A catalytic convertor. This system greatly reduced exhaust emissions while allowing much better performance and fuel economy. It proved to be a key to restoring the performance lost by the addition of emission controls on vehicles. It was the fore runner to modern electronic engine management systems that eventually appeared as similar systems on all automobiles.

It probably needs steering fluid.

If the car is turbocharged, it could be the turbo charge controller. It's a small piece attached to the air intake box for an s60. These are known to go out on the s60 and are usually covered under a Volvo recall for that part.

It can also be the MAP Sensor. If it goes defective or the o-rings that seal it to the air intake pipe harden, it will cause the same problem.

To separate the issues, drive up a hill quickly, forcing the turbocharge to engage. If you feel intermittent power loss and gain, it is likely the turbo charge controller. If you notice the engine having trouble accelerating from a stop (vibrating or jerking hard) or dying when accelerating from a stop, your MAP sensor is to blame. Either part only costs about $80-90 and can be swapped out in seconds. They're in the engine compartment and very accessible, only held on by clips (and tubes for the turbo charge controller). Definitely call the Volvo shop and see if yours is covered by the recall. Free is always better.

Check for a vacuum leak

Check the check valve on the power brake booster

No such thing as a free wiring diagram. Not one that you would trust anyway.

Try this:

http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/11/finding-repair-information-you-need-at.html

Not to be to smart but,seriously go BUY a manual!!!!! A haynes or chiltons manual shows a complete step by step process to do this simple maintenance.It takes too much time to explain this and a manual will always be there to answer most questions you will need.The cost is about 20.00 or more at your local advance auto parts,auto zone,napa,carquest, or o'reillys carry either brand and if not in stock can order it and have it next day or a day or two later.I will tell you that you will need the basic sockets,wrenches and a C-clamp which will be used to push the piston back in on the caliper.I also suggest getting several cans of brake clean,caliper pin bolt grease,and if your rotor are worn(show any grooves or never changed) suggest buying new ones over having them machined at a local shop simply due to it is cheaper to buy new over the cost of resurfacing the old ones.

If you don't want to buy, or can't afford the extra $$ to buy a manual, visit your local public library. Oftentimes, they will have a repair manual specific to your vehicle available for checkout.

On the S60, adjust the seat to the desired position. Press and hold the memory button while also pressing the desired preset button (1,2 or 3). Release both buttons.

Well step 1 is of courese remove the front tires. Then you will see two "expansion" pins pushed in at the top and bottom of the pad assembly. You can use a flat screwdriver and hammer to push them out. You will need to open up the Brake fluid reservoir and then gently pry the pads open enough to get them off the rotor. Once that is done you can use a c-clamp and a block of wood to open up the caliper enough for the new pads. Then just put it all back together. Afterwards you might need to bleed the brakes to clear any air from the lines. When you had the pad assembly off you should have noticed a fitting that looks like a grease fitting. That is actually where you will open it up and bleed the fluid until there is no air in the line. DO Not open it up a lot.. just a little to get the fluid flowing. Be sure to have something to catch the fluid and Do Not get it on your paint! Also do not use the old fluid again. Always use new DOT Rated fluid.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/howto_sparkplugs850.php

take it to a brake shop. breaks are life or death in a car. if your too unexperienced to change them yourself take it in. its not worth loosing your life over 150 bucks.

First remove the Tire, then Remove the 2 bolts holding the Caliper on to the rotor slide the caliper up and remove the 2 tension springs holding the Pads in place.

Take the wheel off, and remove the caliper bolt on the bottom, from the inside. Lift up the caliper, and the pads should come out. Do your self a favor, and buy Toyota pads, and a shim kit. The kit still comes with anti-seize lube for the top spindle the caliper rides on. You may not need everything in the kit, but you will be glad to have extra parts, in the event you lose something in the process. And, don't forget to put in the horse shoe shaped wire spring clips that straddle the air holes in the rotors. This will keep the pads away from the rotors when you are just driving. If you buy after market pads, they will hang up, stick, and prematurely wear out the rotors, too. They are just not metalurgically compatible when you factor in the break dust, heat, and friction.

front or rear? both are very similar. take the wheels off. loosen and take off the calipers (should be 2 bolts if my memory serves me correctly, the bolts are kinda long. slide the caliper off revealing the brake pads. replace the brake pads and put it all back together. Don't forget to use brake lube on the sliders of the calipers.

Buy the Chiltons or Haynes manual. It will walk you through the process.