VW Bus

The bus was i believe a '70s vehicle. I could be wrong. i think it was discontinued in about '80 or '81. I'm gonna have to ask my friend. he owns like 6 of the things.

That is a case casting number, not used in "what year questions."
Standard procedure is to look at the case serial number prefix. Cases without it or tampered numbers can be narrowed down by country code, oil galley sizes, and subtle construction differences.

I bought my 1970 bus (which has been converted to a camper without a poptop) for 2000 dollars off of Kijiji (used). but I thought I could drive it back and ended up spending about 3000 in total. don't get stuck in Saskatchewan cause you will be hitchhiking for about 3 hours before somebody finally picks you up. and you'll wait about 6 hours for a bus to show up.

The point gap in a 1972 d100 varies. For the 225 slant 6 cylinder the point gap is.017- .023.

For the 318cid, 360cid, 400cid and 413cid engines the gap is .014- .019.

It requires the removal of the dashboard (ie the speedo and rev counter section) On the back you will see the circuit board which is flexable. Look for the green LED's at the top and resolder some new ones in their place. This is also a chance for you to change the apearance of the dash lights as you can put any colour LED in their place. You can make the dash look like the Mk4's blue dash lights Good luck Lemm Further answer: There are six (6) screws on the plastic face plate for the dash, remove all. There are two (2) screws holding the dash in place, remove. Reach around in back of the dash panel (tight fit) and squeeze the speedo cable to remove, pull off. Then tilt the dash down so you can see the back of the dash panel. There are two (2) lights on top, twist to remove and one (1) light at the center, back. Go to VW and get new lights, replace. BUT, carefully put the new ones in and turn the lights on, make sure they work. You will NOT have to solder them, at least not on my 1992 Cab. I had to fiddle around with them a bit to get them to go on. This is a big pain-in-the-you-know-what and I am surprised the Germans made replacing these lights so hard. Good luck. Mike

A lot of people are wondering the same thing: what year was my engine built? The simple fact is, in most cases we don't know, for a couple of reasons. First, VW liked to use parts in a range of years. Since we're talking engines, Volkswagen made an engine code AH. That engine was made from 1971 to 1974. Second, VW's demand-prediction abilities were sorely lacking. They'd order 22 million of something, build 20 million cars to put it in, and wind up putting it in next year's models. And third, your engine has probably been rebuilt three times by now. Is an engine that was originally built in 1971, and that was rebuilt in 1979, 1986 and 1997 still a 1971 engine? I think not, but maybe that's just me. I can give you year groups for your engine code, and that's as good as you can get without writing Volkswagen. Credit: John Muir's How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive and sources all over the Internet. For Type I Engines:
Engine Codes 1200 to G1500
Years 1950-1965 Engine Codes FI, HI and HO
Years 1966-1967 Engine Codes HI, BI and H50000001
Years 1968-1970 Engine Code AE
Years 1971-1973 Engine Code AH
Years 1971-1974 Engine Code AK
Year 1974 Engine Code AJ
Years 1975 to end of production For Type II Engines:
Type 2 vehicles used the same engine codes as Type 1 vehicles thru 1970. Engine Code CA
Year 1971 Engine Code CB
Year 1972 Engine Codes CB, CD
Year 1973 Engine Code AW
Year 1974 Engine Code ED
Year 1975 Engine Code GD
Years 1976 to end of production Type III vehicles:
Engine codes 1500T-1600
Years 1961-1967 Engine codes V1600-V0510144
Years 1968-1971 Engine codes V1600-V5000001, U5000001
Years 1972-1973 Type 4 vehicles: These were made from 1968 to 1974. There were two engine codes used throughout the period of manufacture: V 1700 and W 1700.

Do a google search for "Snail Trail"

The bentley manual "green book" has all the wiring diagrams you need.

Dist. Points gap is .016" (0.4mm)

if its newer and worth more take it to a profesonal but if its older and not worth much like mine go for liquid ruber for rv roofs faily easy to put on but it will ruin your clothes if you get it on you but if thats too pricey go for roof tar it will not work as well and be a bit hevyer but it is cheaper and it also attrcts more sun so it will make your camper hoter inside tar would ruin clothes too

3800 series 2 3.8 liter 231 cubic inches

According to my 1970 owners manuel the curb weight is 3173 pounds with a payload of 1600 pounds for a gross weight of 4773 pounds. The permissible roof weight is 220 pounds and a trailer with no brakes should not exceed 1100 pounds. Dennis

Some of the very early Type I and Type II engines were pretty much the same, that similarity ended in the 1960's. Most type II engines have a fan setup quite different from the Type I vertical fan housing. This means that stripped down, the blocks looked the same, but all of the cooling metal carburators, manifolds etc., were different. Most of the later type II engines were also bigger than the Type I engines, as they were in bigger heavier vehicles. Some parts will interchange, others can with modifications. Giving specific answers to a particular situation would require that I know what specific Type I and Type II year(s) you were interested in. For example the Type II got the 40 HP engine ~ 1958 or so, the Type I did not get that engine until 1961, then they were the same for another couple of years, then the Type II got a bigger engine.

I have this same 3 rib trans. From what I have researched, it is a 1969-1970.

They say it is, but there are so many things in the way it would be far easier and quicker just to drop the engine.

well in my bug somewhere on the window crank next to the door is a small screw, mines an Allen screw(hexagonal inset head) so you might need an Allen wrench, but if its there just unscrew it and pull it off.

Leaving slide outs in when the vehicle is stored is always the best. There is lesser chance of water leaks this way and the seals will not be exposed to the sun that will dry them out.

1973 vw beetle

There are no points it has electronic ignition.

The type of oil used for a 1977 VW bus is going to depend on whether this engine takes gasoline or diesel. The gasoline engine can use a 10-30, 10-40, or 5-30 weight oil depending on temperature. The warmer the temperature the higher the weight. The diesel engine has the oil already in the fuel.

WHEN I REMOVE THEM IN MY CAR, ITS TWO SCREWS. ONE ON EACH SIDE L & R, THEN LIFT SEAT ON A 90 DEGREE ANGLE. IF YOUR CAR HAS A AIRBAG ON DRIVERS SEAT MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY THEN DISCONNECT AIRBAG(SO BAG DONT BLOW). ALSO BE CAREFUL OF AIRBAG MODULE UNDER PASSENGERS SEAT WIRE MAY BE CROSSED IN SEAT MOTOR MECHANISM.

Set the parking brake, put the gearshift in neutral then pop the distributor cap and set it out of the way.

Turn the engine by hand until the cam follower on the points is right over one of the 4 high spots of the distributor cam. It doesn't matter which one, they're all the same height.

Loosen the points retainer screw and use another screwdriver to set the points gap. I typically go for about .016 to .018 inch (.4 mm) or about the thickness of a matchbook cover if I'm stuck somewhere without a feeler gauge.

Once I have the points where I want them I use another screwdriver to tighten the screw while I hold the points in position using the first screwdriver.

Note that the points have a notch that allows you to use a screwdriver to position the stationary side of the points.

Once you're done with that, re-set the timing.

What state do you live in?

3.5 qts

They slide right out. Just pull the lever like you're going to adjust the seat, and keep moving the seat forward until it slides out the front of the rails.