VW New Beetle

I average 30 mpg in my 2000 Beetle GLS (manual). That's averaged out for both city and highway driving.

The answer depends on the problem. If your shifting is sloppy and you're looking to tighten it up, then you need to replace the shifter bushing or the shifter U-joint. The U-joint is easier to replace. To change the bushing, you need to remove the shifter. Just behind the cup that the shifter goes in, there is a little plastic bushing that surrounds the shaft and is held in place by a metal loop hanging down from the top of the tunnel. Pull the shaft forward (towards the front of the car) and slide/pull/yank/cut the old bushing out. Take the new bushing and slide it in place. It should snap into place and be firmly held in position. If it will not snap in or if there was no old bushing, then your loop is worn out and needs to be replaced. This is a little harder and would require much more explanation. To change the U-joint, you need to remove the rear seat. Underneath an oval plate held in place with a screw, there is a metal cage holding large square rubber blocks in place. There is a bolt going through the rubber blocks that attach the cage & blocks to the shift rod coming out of the transmission nose cone. If these blocks are loose or sloppy then they need to be replaced. I recommend getting the neoprene replacements - they will outlast your car! They are usually red so you can tell the difference between neoprene and the black rubber ones. Just make sure to put a little grease around the outside of the blocks everywhere that they touch metal. They last a long time but they tend to be squeaky! A little grease will stop the squeaks. You can replace the cage if you want, but as long as it's not bent out of shape or worn through anywhere, it should be perfectly fine to re-use. I've only ever had to replace ONE cage EVER, and that's because I bent the hell out of it myself! I hope this helps you! If your problem is something else then you need to be a little more specific with your question.

Firstly you need your 4 digit pin code for the radio. On the screen where if shows safe, it will change to the number 1000, using the numbers 1 to 6 on your radio, punch in the pin code then press down on the centre of the arrows on the left hand side of the CD player and it will then reset your radio. It worked for me, hopefully it will work for others too.

The check engine light has to be reset with a OBD scan tool

To remove the starter motor, disconnect the battery first. Take a picture, if possible, so that the new starter can be put back in place the same as the old one was. Disconnect the wires and remove the starter bolts. Remove the starter and replace with a new one. Hook up the wires and the battery.

if you check in the boot there is a clip directly behind the light unscrew that then check the other side of the light for the other clip (its behind the slatted panel on the side of your boot) then it should just pull out and unplug

I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel pump, attached a two-foot section of fuel host to the fuel line, then blew compressed air through the line until I could hear bubbles coming from the fuel tank. Then I draped the hose over the back bumper, and let the dirty fuel drain through the system into a spare gas tank. When clear gas was coming out, I reconnected the fuel pump, changed the fuel filter, and it was good to go.

Remove the 10 mm nuts from the round drain plate at the bottom of the Air Cooled VW engine. While you're pulling the nuts, the drain plate will start to leak, so have a pan under it. After the plate is removed, gently work out the oil screen. Wash the screen and the drain plate. You'll need two (2) drain plate gaskets. Put a gasket on, then put the screen on, then another gasket and finally the drain plate. Be careful to NOT overtighten the 10 mm nuts. Many VW shops will adjust the valves every SECOND time you change the oil. You relly need to keep the valves adjusted properly so that the valves don't burn.

It's been a while, but doesn't the fuel line go through the main tunnel? If so, that's a problem. You may need to run a replacment steel fuel line INSIDE the vehicle, along the floor and out through the back. Be careful that you don't run it anywhere that it might rub against a sharp or moving object, then use some kind of bedding material that will keep it from moving around and rubbing against the body.

all front wheel driven

It require the G12 antifreeze.

Because the ignition is powered directly from the battery. The Gen/Alt only feeds the battery.

The 71 VW bug had an electric idle solenoid on the side of the carburetor which picked up its current from the + side of the ignition coil. First check that the wire is good and that it has 12 volts of current. Next you can touch the end of the wire to the post on the idle solenoid and listen for a click. If there is no click replace the solenoid. IF it clicks then the port may be stopped up in carburetor . You can gently use a air hose and blow out the port or disassemble the carburetor and do a complete overhaul. If the problem persist after these repairs put in a new electric idle solenoid. You also need to check the spray jet in the throat of the carburetor to insure it is clean and not stopped up.

No,fuel filters come stock on a bug.

can I flat tow my 2000 VW New Beetle with 5 speed Transmission

Probably in the hardest place to get to. These cars are cool looking, but unique is a four-letter word when it comes to repairing these things. Get the owners manual and a bible and pray the owner's manual has it in there. Be careful not to break anything either as VW parts are crazy expensive. I just repaired a 2006 Passat that hit a deer and spent over $7600 in parts alone.

You turned them off. The fuse has blown

4 quarts

Need to get it checked for codes by a dealer or similar that can take out codes which will refer to what part of the system has triggered the alarm i.e pin point it to which door switch or bonnet switch or if its a voltage drop issue etc.

A fuse panel diagram for a 1998 new Beetle can be purchased from most auto parts stores. A free diagram can be found at the library.

Depends on mileage, stock or custom, the bodies condition, the interiors condition, and mechanical condition. I would look at Kelly Blue book for a general idea. Here is the website for Kelly Blue Book.

www.kkb.com

under rear seat bottom is a fuel pump access remove 3 screws to remove cover take out fuel pump and siphon that way

I only know of one, it is on front top of engine on the left side. it is a small screw/bolt just loosen until coolant runs clear from it then tighten it back up. do not tighten to much, it will break off.

http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23784 Yes, they can.