VW Transporter

where is the oil pressure switch on a 2004 Volkswagen t5 diesel

2005 5.3 trailblazer I have removed the ground wire , power wire and lower 2 bolts on the front, but it seems that something is still holding the alternator in place. Can you tell me what else I need to loosen to get the altnator to come loose?

Remove the drive belt. Remove the electrical connection, remove the alternator. OR - IS IT HIDDEN BEHIND OTHER CONPONENTS?

I had to change mine on a 1990 and it's the same for yours.

You need to always remember to disconnect the neg on the battery first.

You need to move the fly wheel just a tad so remove the belt and slide the wheel over then the rest is easy.

Good luck.

When sitting in the driver´s seat you´ll find a small locker (for coins etc.) just above your left knee. There is a little black knob on the top. Unscrew the knob and open the lid. Behind it you can see fuse box. (VW transporter 1991)

What is a PDU?

corruption of a frame during transmission

data reassembled at the destination

retransmitted packets due to lost communication

a layer specific encapsulation

Teleportation...well no. What do you think? Probably air travel i.e. aeroplanes or spaceships although not particularly new. That's as far as human technology has gone so far.

The hook portion or the latch is probably flipped up. If you lift the exterior handle up and take a pen or reasonable facsimile, you can flip it back. Post your results.

Should someone "accidently" push down the latch, which freezes, the door won't latch or close. Pulling the outside door handle and using the pen or straight tool at the same time will release all latches!!

If the latch is flipped down, as it was on my 2000 Pontiac Firebird, then simply lifting the inner or outer latch handle may not work. My car has power door locks and I could not get the latch to release no matter how many times I cycled the lock/unlock switch. I found that I had to unlock the door with the key first, then lifting the handle worked! I don't know how the latch got "thrown" initially, but I found the seatbelt buckle stuck in the doorjamb, and I had locked the car using the keychain fob. My point is this: It will help to try and figure out what was occurring when the problem might have happened. , and Good Luck!

I think this is a little bit of a trick question. Let me explain: The heating in an air cooled bus relies on heat exchangers around the exhausts warming air which is then forced down pipes under the vehicle and into the ducts at the front, and at the rear. If you set the heating controls so you can feel air coming out of the ducts, you are probably set correctly. Unfortunately they are notoriously poor and generally don't get any heat to the front. On mine, I replaced the heat exchangers, I checked all pipes were sealed, but still in winter I barely had enough heat to clear the window. I travelled down through Belgium to the South of Germany one year, and it was so cold the screen wash froze, and I had to use hot tea on the windscreen every couple of miles to be able to see where I was going!

So, check the system out, and perhaps invest in an Eberspacher heater - that will make winter travel tolerable.

Nuclear energy is a type of energy that needs very little mass. Nuclear energy is used to generate electricity and heat.

To reset a T4 Service indicator. With ign off, press and hold trip mtr butto. Switch ign on and release the button. If only "insp"is in the display, turn minutes knob to right on the clock, "service ----" should now appear in the display. Turn off ign and service is reset. If "insp and Oil" are shown in the display, get to insp by toggling the trip mtr button. follow above procedure, but don't yet turn off the ign, press the trip mtr button again and "oil" should appear, again turn the minutes knob to the right and "service----" will appear. Turn ign off and service is reset. Works for me on my 2000 T4.

right side under bolt to the casing

Im looking for an engine diagram of a Hyundai excel LS 5 door 93 model?

There are many different sizes.

wow, that depends on your starting point, man, like 64, or 67 can make a big difference and the real question is where your head's at. as your bus travels through time size becomes irrelevant

Call Volkswagen and give them either your chassis number which is found on a metal plate in the engine by (It will be obvious) or your registration number and they will be able to supply you with the pant code. I just did it. :-)

I just replaced mine. The process is pretty straight forward. Obviously, step one is to disconnect your battery. I wasn't sure if the alternator would come up through the top for removal, so I opted to remove the splash guard from the bottom front of the engine. I then jacked the car up and it gave me great access to some of the work from underneath. The alternator was easily removed through the bottom. There are two electrical connections at the alternator. One bolts on from the battery, and one is a plugin connection that requires you to push the tab in before pulling the connector off. You can decide for yourself whether you want to do this while the alternator is bolted up or whether you want to loosen the alternator to have better access to these connections. I personally took the top bolt out and loosened the bottom bolt before removing the electrical connections. NOTE: my new alternator (rebuilt technically) came with an insulating block that did not work with the battery cable connection, so you will want to check this before returning your core in case you need to take the insulating block off your old alternator. The alternator is held on by two bolts. The top bolt is part of the tensioner, which uses, thankfully, an old style bolt system to tension a separate alternator belt. Once you remove the top bolt the tensioner can be removed by sliding it towards the rear of the car through the slot it sits in. The bottom bolt has fallen prey to what I consider an engineering oversite. The bolt threads out towards the back of the engine, and because of this, you have to remove the stiffening arm that sits right behind this bolt. Fortunately, the stiffening arm is held on by three bolts, all of which are easy to get to. Once this arm is out of the way you can remove the bottom bolt. Reassemble in the reverse order, connect your battery, reprogram your radio, etc. Your fault codes are going to be cleared, so if you needed this information for any reason, get it read before disconnecting your battery.

probably yes.from 30 yrs. most people travelled with donkeys mostly egyptians

It is the immobiliser warning light. Comes on if incorrect key is used or vehicle is tow/bump started. Needs to be cleared with OBDII tool but uses obscure 14 pin Mercedes interface connection.

Hi ,I have found valueable information as regards the weights etc ,, taken from a Volkswagen Manual ,,it suggests an unladen weight of 1495 kgs / with a vehicle capacity weight of 755 kgs ,and a gross vehicle weight of 2250 kgs ,,

Wording is a little confusing but I believe the energy-providing molecule you're after is ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate)

Oil of peppermint test or Smoke test

It would depend on which defrost system is not working, the rearview mirrors, back window or front window.

30 -35 mpg

What part of the membrane helps chemical reac