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Brake Pads and Rotors
The brake pads and rotors are important parts of a vehicle’s braking system. When an automobile brakes, the brake clamps on the rotor to slow the speed of the vehicle.
4,542 Questions
try tapping the rotor with a hammer to break the rust holding it to the hub. also need to remove the flat retaining nut which will be found on one of the lug bolts. If it still does not release you need to release the e-brake cable, the pads may have worn into the inner brake lining
Depending on the driving conditions, the pads may be worn again. I have seen the small metal plates on the pads (wear indicators) begin to contact the rotor while there is still sufficient pad material to last a while longer. I have bent these wear indicators away from the rotor to prevent the noise, not to mention stopping them from gouging your rotors, which they will do! Only bend the wear indicators until they align with some pad still below the contact edge. I would recommend replacing the pads not too long after doing this.
Another possibility is the brake system may need bleeding.
also if the grinding is coming from the rear brakes,it may be your brake cylinders leaking,possibility,of uneven or unneccecary wear on pads could be,seized caliper pins or the piston in the caliper may be seized,i would i myself would not bend the wear indicators,as some pads are held together with rivots,the indicators are there for a reason,take alook at your rotors also as they be worn,maybe not from the outside but look on the inside,rear drums could also be warped,my suggestion,take it to a mechanic,as it's your life and others in your hands when it comes to stopping your vehicleHow do you cange front brake rotors?
It will depend upon your car. You will most likely have to remove the wheel, the brake pads, the caliper, and poss the caliper adapter in order to gain access to the rotor which should then slip off and can be replaced.
Most likely from corrosion. Not much you can really do about it if you used good quality parts. you might want to check your lug nuts to see if there all the way tighten.
How do you adjust the rear brake drums in a Mitsubishi Galant 1999?
depends on whether you are replacing rear brakes or not. The explanation is long, recommend you purchase a service book ($18.95)at advance or auto zone. Follow procedure and you will be done in know time.
I have a 2003, I got my brakes re done like 2 weeks ago, and then it started grinding loudly and thumping, turns out I have to get a new drive shaft.
How can you tell if you have rear drum brakes or rear disk brakes?
Disk brakes should appear as shiny plates with the calipers on top and in full view. Drum brakes will appear as a 'bowl' which make telling them apart instant.
How do you change the front brake pads on a 2003 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder?
OK so I started to simply make some suggestions and it turned out to be close to an actual so I'm putting it here as well for Gino.
Honda front brake pads are easy to replace compared to many other types. If you have less than 50,000 miles on the car you should not be worrying about the front pads. Since you are we'll presume you drive a lot like I used to and the concern is valid. Don't let dealers try to get you to worry about such things so they can make a killing on a repair.
1) If you don't know where to start I would suggest going to your local auto parts supply (not the dealer!) such as Kragen, Shucks, Murray, Checker, or Advanced Auto Parts Stores. These are all owned by "Parts America" and the names are related to the area you live in. See their web site at www.partsamerica.com for the nearest location to you.
2) Get a Chilton's auto repair manual for your vehicle, they are available for free at some public libraries (here in Seattle at least), even accessible online with your library account. It will provide you with the details on how to change your brake pads. It will also tell you how to inspect them (after you jack the car up take the wheel off)to see if they are in need of replacement.
3) If you decide to do this on your own, you will need some simple tools. First suggestion I tell my friends is before you start to do anything to remove the caliper is to turn the wheel a few times. When the car is stopped the front brakes tend to stay close to the wheel. If you don't know the air that is generated when the car is moving creates an air cushion that keeps the brake pads away from the rotor. By turning the wheel first you will loosen this enough to make it easier to do the job.
4) Second thing before you remove the caliper is to examine the disks. You will be able to see about 3/4 of the disk at a time because the caliper blocks your view. Because you turned the wheel before removing it you should be able to turn the disk grabbing the lug bolts that the wheel attached to. Please DO NOT touch the rotor with your hands. These need to be clean at all times. What you are looking for is to see if the rotors are worn and need replacing. Starting at the part closest to the hub follow the profile of the rotor surface to the outer most part. The surface should be smooth, have no discoloration, and with a 2003 vehicle there should be almost NO ridge at the outer edge (1/4 inch). I have a 2002 CR-V and there is no ridge on my rotors. My wifes '97 Accord has 84,000 miles on it and just a bit of a ridge; This is acceptable wear. (bye the way I didn't have to replace her brake pads until the car hit 70,000 miles.) If you see any significant ripples on the surfaces then you have spent too much time with your foot on the brake. If you have anything other than smooth rotors you should consider having someone qualified (with experience that is) work on it. Find a friend because "Turning the Rotors" requires knowledge and a machine shop is not a fun job nor anything to be taken lightly.
5) Gather the tools (Wrenches will be METRIC) and follow the instructions in the book to remove the rotors. Remember they are fairly heavy as they are made of cast iron for durability. They will remain attached to the car via the brake hose. DO NOT attempt to remove them, this would make a big mess and add to the cost. I do recommend you have a box like a milk carton crate and a couple of smaller items available to stack up as necessary to rest the caliper upon.
6) A large "C-Clamp" is always useful to push the "Puck" pack into the caliper. This must be done so that the thicker pads can fit between the caliper and the rotor. The C-Clamp will have to have an opening of at least 6 inches to be useful. Be careful not to place the c-clamp at an angle or you can jam the puck. I like to use a piece of 1/4 inch plywood across the entire puck surface and that way pressure is placed evenly around the puck as you gently tighten the clamp thus pressing the puck back into the caliper.
6) Make sure you DO NOT touch the face of the new pads with dirty hands or they will have a tendency to squeak. The dirt and/or oil from your hands should be removed prior to installing the pads into the caliper.
Chilton's books will provide you with a list of tools usually required to do the job and the specifications for your car. The pads should run between $40 and $75 depending upon where you live. The book will become your best friend if you intend to do maintenance of this type in the future so look at it as an investment in long term savings.
BLG in Washington State
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How do you fix a brake switch 1981 dodge Prospector?
Just go and buy a new one. They don't cost that much and are located under the dash on the brake pedal arm.
How do you repair 2000 Honda accord ex brake rotors?
AS A GENERAL RULE YOU GET THE ROTORS CUT OR RESURFACED BY A REPUTABLE SHOP. THERE IS NOT REPAIR THEY ARE EITHER THICK ENOUGH
TO CUT OR THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED
How do you change rotors on s-10?
This answer is based off a 1997 s-10 2wd 2.2 liter 4 cyl:
First you must remove the wheel using 3/4in. socket on air gun, Rachet, breaker bar, or by using a "4-way."
Next, remove the caliper. For this you will need a rachet assembly with a 3/8in Allen head to remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mount. After removing the bolts, pull the caliper off of the rotor.
You will then remove the dust cap using either a chisel or small flat head screw driver and a hammer gently tapping the chisel between the dust cap and te end of the rotor. Once removed you will have access to the cottor pin and nut. Remove the cottor pin with pliers then use the pliers to loosen the nut(which should not be too tight). Place the nut it the dust cap and prevent rust/dust from getting on it. Next hold your hand under the end of the rotor and with your free hand tap against te outside face of the rotor, this should release the washer and outside bearing front the shaft(if not carefully use two flat head screw drivers to work them out(again prevent rust/dust etc from getting on these parts and set them in the dust cap, seeing that you will more than likely reuse them) Now, it is easiest to replace the nut back onto the shaft by a few threads. Gently pull the rotor off while turning it down slightly so that the back bearing catches on the nut and stays on the shaft. Set rotor on a piece of paper towel for now and remove the back bearing. While the rotor is off you might as well clean the wheel sensor, this can be done by covering up the shaft with a CLEAN rag or CLEAN paper towel, and using a magnet and paper towel to remove metal particles/rust/dust from the surface and around the sensor.
Getting the new rotor ready: New rotors come from the factory with a protective film on them, grab a couple paper towels and a can of carbuerator cleaner, with out spraying into the center of the rotor which will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft, spray both front and back surfaces and wipe the film off. Now, you can either reuse the factory grease or purchase new grease, this depends on the quality of the grease within the old rotor, If reusing grease, use a finger(gloved or no glove again choice is yours), to pack the grease around on the inside cylindrical surface of the rotor which again will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft. You can now replace the inside bearing which will have a tapered fit into the new rotor, you will need to install a "wheel seal" after installing the bearing(your part supplier will know the part you need, the wheel seal has two different sides one which is "open" and one side which is not), place the open side into the rotor and gently tap the seal into place, make sure it is seated all the way in and try not to hit the rotor while doing so. you can now slide the rotor onto the shaft and put the outside bearing and washer back on (the washer should fit into a key slot), thread the nut on finger tight until you can just fit the cottor pin back into its hole on the shaft through the nut (pliers can be used due to the fact that the grease on the nut can make this difficult). You can just simply pound the dust cap on with a hammer, but personally I would rather not damage the cap, so for this you will need a larger size flat head screw driver and a hammer. Fit the cap into place and altough this can be tricky, place the screw driver around the outside edge and tap on the screw driver with the hammer all the way around until it is fully seated. I would recommend new pads whenever changing rotors but again that is your choice. If replacing pads simply pull off the old ones and replace with new ones, If reusing old pads lightly sand down the surface to remove any rust/dust. Now just slide the caliper back onto your newly installed rotor. Line up the holes and replace the bolts. once tightened down, I would recommend "seating" the new/old pads to the rotor. Find a road that or parking lot on which you can accellerate up to 30mph and half room to firmly and steadily apply the brakes (This is not to check how fast you can stop, You SHOULD NOT slam on the brakes while doing this process) Repeat the acceleration to 30mph and firmly applying the brakes for a totaly of 4-6 times, again this allows for the new rotors/pads to seat properly against each other. I hope this helps you out and allows you to keep from wasting money at a dealership or shop. W.F.
Change rear brake pads on Audi a6 2005?
a special scanner called a v.a.g. has to be used to retract the electronic e brake system, and will also retract caliper piston..DO NOT TRY WITH OUT TOOL !!!!!
Metric calipers are measuring tools used to accurately determine the dimensions of an object in metric units. They typically consist of two jaws (inner and outer) for measuring inside and outside dimensions, as well as a depth gauge for measuring depths. Metric calipers are commonly used in various industries such as engineering, manufacturing, and construction for precise measurements.
Any special tools needed to change brake pads 2003 Saab 93?
I just did this today and the "special" tools I found I needed were: a 7mm hexagonal (six-sided) bit socket (one that will fit onto a ratchet...there isn't enough room to use a hexagonal head screw driver) and that's really it. I assume that you have a ratchet set with metric sockets, brake lube, pads etc. This is an easy job don't worry.
How do you retract the rear calipers on 96 Mark V III?
The best way is to buy the little square tool for a couple of bucks at an auto store and you have to turn the piston into the caliber, hope you didn't try to force the piston in too hard otherwise it's toast.
The rotor will have to be removed from the car. It can be resurfaced by mounting it on a special machine that slowly removes metal from the rotor until the rotor is smooth.
Why are the abs brake and eps lights on in your car?
because you have a problem with an abs sensor ,module, or wiring problem
Specifics will depend on model year and if you are referring to the front or rear brake rotors. But in most cases, you need to remove the caliper first, then the torque plate (bracket that holds the caliper), then the rotor can be removed. Many times, there could be a significant amount of corrosion that forms around the hub - may take quite a bit of effort to free a stuck rotor, in those cases. A quality penetrating fluid and a couple of whacks with a mallet can help.
A pulsation when braking, and a loud screeching noise(pads also gone).
most likely cheap brakes
ANS 2 -Look back and inspect all work that was done, sounds like something is not lined up properly or a pad is slightly out of place.
Nope no special tools, jack the car up, take the wheel off, the disc should be held on with one screw (the wheel nuts hold it in place) and the caliper should just have a couple of bolts holding it on. Fairly simple if your mechanically minded.
note: i haven't actually worked on a 2002 corolla but i have worked on loads of jap cars and i own a 95 corolla.
How hard is it to replace the front brake on a 2002 Chevy S-10?
It is not hard at all and it does not take long either. It is easier and cheaper to do them at home than have a dealership do them.
rotors and pads, shouldn't take more than an hour... Tools needed is a 3/8 socket wrench and a 10mm socket to remove the caliber from the rotor, before replacing the old brake pads, take 2 pri-bars (or something that will fit in between the shoes)and use a push/pull method to push the caliber sleeve back flush with the caliber if you don't have a brake tool.
How do you bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy beretta?
Start at the longest lin (RR) and work toward the shortest line (LF)
Fill master cylinder reservoir (do not let get empty)Have assistant push and hold brake pedal down aprrox. 3/4 of the way to the floor
Connect a plastic hose to bleeder screwSubmerge other end of hose in a container partailly filled with brake fluid
Open bleeder screw and watch container for air bubblesClose bleeder and have assistant repeat until no air bubbles are present then move on to next wheel and repeat
