Buick Rendezvous

I had this happen on mine. It means the fuel cap was not tightened correctly. Apparently if the seal is not right too much air gets in the tank and trips the light. Ours went off by itself after the cap was tightened

yes.

Simply a device to prevent the throttle from moving more than a pre-determined amount.

On "butterfly" throttle plate equiped engines this can be to stop the throttle plate from moving past the ideal highest flow point. If it moves past this point the air flow can hold the throttle open.

In other cases a throttle stop can be used to limit the amount of power the engine can produce by limiting how much throttle can be employed. Common an small beginer quads and motorcycles so daddy can keep the speed down to a non-fatal level.

a plastic wheel cover normally clips on. Use a tire tool or screwdriver to pry around the edges and pop the cover loose from the wheel.

Auto parts stores will tell you the codes but won't turn it off anymore. The light is suppose to turn off after 15 starts if no warning is present. If you want to turn off light immediately, I heard you can disconnect negative terminal on battery for a at least a minute.

This is kind of a pain, the dealer has special tools as you need to keep the retaining spring from engaging the detents in the headrest post. I made a couple tools using some heating duct metal strapping (5/8 inch wide or so) I had laying around. I cut two 4 or 5 inch pieces, tapered the end so it has a slight rounded point and tapered it up about 2 inches by trimming the sides, no sharp edges.. I curved it slightly to match the headrest post, easily done with pliers since the metal is so soft. I held down the top of the seat cushion with bungies as it tended to keep pushing the tools up. Place headrest at top position, then push headrest down slightly so you are not in detent, push in tools on detent side of post slightly off center, one on each post. Go down 2 to 3 inches.. you may feel them slip past the springs. then keep a little pressure on the tools while lifting the headrest out. I did this by myself without too much trouble. keeping pressure on the tools while lifting was an effort in coordination, but not bad, took about 20 minutes making tools and all..

I have a 2004 Buick Rendezvous and the key entries are on the front drivers and front passenger's side doors next to the door handle.

If you were referring to the trunk, I believe the Rendezvous' were made without trunk key entries- at least that's how my 04 is and how my friend's 02 was.

Mine has a button you push under the latch that automatically is unlocked if the car itself is unlocked- and is automatically locked if the car is locked. My friend's 02 did not have this feature. So this answer probably depends on

A) Whether you're referring to door locks or trunk locks and

B) Which year you own

There are any number of things that'll happen when your blow a head gasket or crack a head. Common symptoms: - Foaming, bubbling, or "gargling" in the radiator. The bubbles in the radiator are sometimes hard to see. But if you see them, you have a serious problem. - Rapid pressure buildup in your cooling system, before the engine has warmed up. - Some have even reported coolant overflowing from the reservoir bottle because of the pressure. All these above mentioned symptoms could also be a cracked head. Either way, the head must come off, the gasket replaced, and the head inspected for cracks. At the same time, check both mating surfaces for flatness before putting on a new gasket so you don't have to repeat the job. Other symptoms of a blown head gasket include: - White smoke coming from the tailpipe, sometimes intermittently. - Water in the oil. When they mix, the oil gets a chocolate milkshake appearance. - Oil in the coolant. - Cylinder pressure low when using either the wet or dry compression method. - Cooling system will not hold pressure when statically pressurized. Look for any combination of these symptoms to diagnose a bad head gasket. One curious observation of mine, when a person describes their engine problems, and it looks like a blown head gasket, often they mention that the car just had a new radiator put in, or new cooling fan, or some other repair history that suggests the car was constantly overheating. If you had white smoke coming from the tailpipe and your head gasket was bad, chances are the O2 sensor may have been poisoned at the same time. Expect to have problems with it. It may need to be replaced.

After the air filter, the air goes into the cylinder as a mixture with the fuel to be burned.

Do you have a amp??if you do it could be that the amp is sucking alot of energy from battery.And I'm guessing u have a stock alternator take your battery to autozone tell them if they can charge it is free and they will tell you is your Battery is bad.. If you don't hav all this maybe you hav a bad alternator and it wont charge ur battery maybe u need a new alternator...,just take your truck to autozone and tell them if they can check your battery and alternator from there you will know what's wrong hope this helps alot I had the same thing and it suck

May be a BCM glitch or the rear trunk latch there is a recall from gm about the rear hatch latch

192 ft/lbs or 260 NM

Remove Glove Box. Fuses are located between fan housing and heater box. there are two fuses and a relay. Remove Glove Box. Fuses are located between fan housing and heater box. there are two fuses and a relay.

Run a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the fan motor. If the fan will not run when hot wired, the motor is burned out and will have to be replaced. If the fan will run when hot wired, check the fan motor fuse. It us probably in the engine compartment near the battery.

buick enclave

The word has several meanings. Here's one typical use:

I used to know the names of all my classmates, but at the moment, I can only recall a few.

If I am not mistaken, one would find a diagram of the belt's pulley system pasted on a sticker in the engine compartment usually either on the top pulley or next to the hood release in front of the radiator. If not, one should notice grooved surfaces for the pulleys that come in contact with the inside of the belt, and smooth surfaces for the outside. TO REMOVE/INSTALL, find the pulley attached to a spring-loaded arm. This pulley releases the tension on the belt by using a wrench(crescent works best) placed on the center bolt which will not turn but instead will help move that spring-loaded arm. .

Also instead of using the wrench on the bolt itself on the end of the idler bracket (there is a square end near the radiator) you will have lots more leverage to work with but one of the drawbacks is that it is a little difficult to do this by ones self.

First you make sure you have a diagram of how the belt is threaded (or check in section 6 of the owners manual)

Start the car and cut the wheels to the right..Shut it off

then take a ratchet with a breaker bar and lift up the tensioner pulley to release the tension.

Then after belt is loose remove the 2 fasteners that hold the wheel well protector on and remove it. This will provide access to the bolt at the bottom of the motor mount bracket ( it's shaped like a [ ).

This bolt feeds through a sleeve that when removed will provide the clearance needed to remove the belt.

Put a jack with a 2x4 on it under the oil pan (just touching, not lifting) to provide support should anything bad happen.

Then with an 11/16s socket remove the lower motor mount screw and spacer this is the only way to get the belt out......reverse procedure.Make sure the new belt is properly seated on the belt tracks.

The spacer is difficult to remove, so through the top is the easiest and perhaps adding a slight bevel to the outside edge and cleaning the ends may help with the reinstalling of the sleeve.

I just did this 2 days before updating this. Spray and wipe clean your tensioner pulley with a little brake cleaner. I also had to remove the tensioner pulley to make sure it spun freely.

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To add to this great description:

No work will need to be done to the engine mount which you will see looking down from above. The engine mount is the black coil with a bolt through it, connected to large "fingers" that hold the engine. The bottom one of these "fingers" is the part that your belt will be stuck on when you try to remove it. This part is removable on it's own. As explained above, all the work you will need to do will be done from behind the wheel well panel. Once you've removed the nut described, you will then remove the bolt that it was on. The bolt, or screw, has an end that is workable with a ratchet. This bolt will come all the way out and allow you to remove the spacer described above, with some prying, and allow you to remove the belt.

left side under the vehicle directly under the driver seat.

ren.dez.vous

There is no actual "chime" for the backup warning. The chime is generated by the radio just like the "KEY IN IGNITION" or the "HEADLAMPS ON" chime. The Rear Parking Assist Moudle sends a signal to the BCM which requests the proper chime for the Radio to produce in the speaker(s).

From the side along frame rail behind the front and in front of the rear tires

The key lock and the electric motor are two separate items they are conected by a lever. It sounds like the lever is binding

sounds like a bad key tumbler