Car Stalling Problems

you mean like overheating? could be a number of problems, radiator leak, radiator broke, radiator fan, leaky hose, broken water pump, broken head or head gasket, or the car running to lean.

It is important to know the symptoms of a bad car part. The symptoms of a coil going bad would be having a trouble starting and running the car, the coil getting hot, and poor fuel economy.

crank sensor is getting hot/ bad crank sensor

According to the web site www.siliconebatteriesusa.com a battery listed as SP36-12 which is intended for vehicles like electric cars or scooters might be the battery you are talking about. The battery is listed as having an amp hour rate of 46 at a ten hour rate and is listed at 99 dollars.

Viscosity is constant at different temperatures

Sugar in the gas tank will not cause the engine to fail because sugar does not dissolve in gas. It will get pulled thru the gas line and into the fuel filter(s) and depending on how much sugar is in the tank, will plug the fuel filter sooner or later. This will cause the car to stall or not stay running. You can either replace the fuel filters until the sugar is gone or get the car to a mechanic and have the gas tank removed and flushed out. This is not a do-it-yourself project. You could also drive the car to the mechanic and then have the fuel filter replaced while they are flushing the gas tank.

The list is endless. The rings have scored into the cylinder walls so bad you have no compression is the most likely if the starter turns the engine but it won't start.

But while you were at it, every bearing from the main bearings on the crankshaft to the ends of the push rods have been damaged to one degree or another. If the engine ever starts again, run it as is, don't waste a single dollar on it when it stops running as it will never be worth it no mater how much you replace.

I had this problem with my 99 durango (5.9 L engine). I replaced the PCM which helped, but the problem wasn't solved until I installed new spark plugs. Runs like a top now!

We had the same problem with our '98 Aurora. Had It to several repair shops and to 2 G.M. dealers. We were chasing the wind. Changed all sorts of expensive parts not to mention a complete tune up. Would have gotten rid of the car but I didn't want to stick anyone. I decided to change the EGR valve because it had solved mystery problems on other cars. It worked like a charm. I had to take it off 6 months later and clean it as the problem returned. All is well now. The part is expensive about $250.00 but it can be put in in minutes

Same problem with my '98 Aurora. It had a blown intake manifold gasket making it run lean and die at idle. The gasket was expensive to replace (as all Aurora parts are) so I had them glue it instead. Worked like a charm and saved me 400 bucks.

It could be a dirty throttle body. With the age of the vehicle & the fact that that PCV valve draws its venting vacuum thru here you may need to pull the air intake hose, remove the snap ring holding in the screen, then CAREFULLY the screen. Go to a good parts store & buy some throttle body cleaner & a plastic toothbrush. Hold the throttle open (ENGINE NOT RUNNING) spray the throttle plate & bore thengently clean with plastic brush until all carbonived oily reside is gone. Next you could have a bad idle air control valve if it dies while at idle speed I'm assuming that you,ve checked for vacuum leaks. If it happens only when warm while driving or sitting still, then takes a few minutes b4 it restarts it could be a bad ignition module. Hope this helps.

Could be as simple as needing a tuneup with a new set of spark plugs.

if your talking about what fell in side the cylinder ? first bring the cylinder up top do this by hand not to cause damage to cylinder wall or head than take a 3 prong grabber place a well chewed piece of gum on it put it in spark plug hole and spin it slowly around the cylinder . make sure not to open the grabber when in the cylinder dropping the gum

When your car stalls by turning left or right, usually a loose or a glazed belt is suspected. Reason being is that the pump is being put under a load by the power steering piston. Making belt slip because it needs more torque to spin pulley. Also draws more current, so check idle speed and spark plugs.

Engines run on a gas/air mixture. A computer controls the gas/air mixture. The computer acts on information it gets from all kinds of sensors. Placing a transmission in gear changes a condition that increases the load on an engine and the gas/air mixture needs to change also. Shifting into park will decrease the load on the engine and a sensor must tell the computer of the shift, thereby changing the gas/air mixture. The engine may stall if the mixture is too rich. Much like the old time engines that flood the carburetor if you pull out the choke causing the engine to stall. When the steering wheel is turned sharply, once again it sharply changes the engine load and the gas/air mixture may not be changing fast enough to compensate for the load change, thereby stalling the engine. However, your problem could only be the gas supply. When you press the gas pedal the computer sends a signal to the injecter(s) to increase the gas in the mixture and if the gas supply is restricted [a clogging filter], the engine should hesitate. Try the filter first.

he would fix it

this one i know thru experience,and a long time to figure it out. but yes a 302 cam will work in a 351.but, u will need to time the engine to 302 timing specs, not to 351 timing specs the same applies if you put 351 cam in a 302

sounds like a bad catalytic convertor

a bad sinkero inside the trans

You should look for a vacuum leak, either in the vacuum lines or the intake manifold, also the TPS and maf can cause this if it is malfunctioning.

because the throttle linkage is suck or the carburetor is faulty

The car can be taken out of test mode by pressing the reset button (beside speedometer) on the instrumentation panel.

Fuse. Also did you have it on full blast? That might do it.

Cause it's a hooptie..