Car Stalling Problems

intermittent loss indicates you need a new sensor

First check instrument panel to see if the SECURITY light is lit. If so, assume that something has triggered the anti-theft automatic motor cut-off. The easiest override is to use your key in the driver door and turn it RIGHT twice, and left once. Another contributor suggested the same procedure with the passenger door. If neither works, we tried a back-up plan and used two keys just in case...

First, we attached battery cables to insure power to the engine.. then attempted to start engine. Second person tried the key procedure on the driver door. It worked like a charm!

It's an ongoing problem with our 95 Jeep Orvis ed. ever since a professional battery outlet installed our new remote battery BACKWARDS and fried our electrical system. Always be very careful with those remotes. As for the non-start, if it's not the security cut-off, there are tons of other regular items to check, which I'll leave to others. Cheers!

The service engine light finally came on and it identified the Mass Air flow sensor is bad.

Weak fuel pump Bad fuel filter

stalling, but not often?

The first thing that I would do is start the car and if you have time, diconnect the positive battery cable. If the car dies then it's the alt. Otherwise could be a fuel pump or possibly maybe in the trans. I had a similar problem in my 86 and it was the TCC, (torque converter clutch), which would not let my car idle right, and kill it. Hope this helps.

TCC is going bad needs to replace, but a quick fix is to unplug it from the Trans and see if the problem still occurs, if not, changing the tcc is highly recommended. thanks.

I can be countless things, but a short is likely if the systems check out otherwise (charging, battery, etc.). To diagnose, you can check the drain on each circuit via the fuse box using a multimeter which can be had for about $10 at radio shack etc.. Buy one, learn to use it (5 minutes max, instructions included). Check charging, battery, then after, if thats all fine, pull fuses and check each circuit, based on fuse ratings, useage indicated by meters, and switching circuit devices on and off. If your battery is old and has gone dead, been stored on the ground, been through cold winters, it's likely just not holding a charge is all. Oh, if battery connections are dirty, the charging system wont be able to refeed the battery. Easy stuff, just gotta start, keep swinging til you figure it out.

well it could be many things first i would look at the fuel pump if u hear it kick on the i would say ur not getting any fire from ur coil or to ur coil

The green key symbol, on your Honda Civic, is a reference that all systems have been checked and are functioning properly. The symbol should only stay illuminated for 30 seconds.

you mean like overheating? could be a number of problems, radiator leak, radiator broke, radiator fan, leaky hose, broken water pump, broken head or head gasket, or the car running to lean.

It is important to know the symptoms of a bad car part. The symptoms of a coil going bad would be having a trouble starting and running the car, the coil getting hot, and poor fuel economy.

crank sensor is getting hot/ bad crank sensor

According to the web site www.siliconebatteriesusa.com a battery listed as SP36-12 which is intended for vehicles like electric cars or scooters might be the battery you are talking about. The battery is listed as having an amp hour rate of 46 at a ten hour rate and is listed at 99 dollars.

Viscosity is constant at different temperatures

Sugar in the gas tank will not cause the engine to fail because sugar does not dissolve in gas. It will get pulled thru the gas line and into the fuel filter(s) and depending on how much sugar is in the tank, will plug the fuel filter sooner or later. This will cause the car to stall or not stay running. You can either replace the fuel filters until the sugar is gone or get the car to a mechanic and have the gas tank removed and flushed out. This is not a do-it-yourself project. You could also drive the car to the mechanic and then have the fuel filter replaced while they are flushing the gas tank.

The list is endless. The rings have scored into the cylinder walls so bad you have no compression is the most likely if the starter turns the engine but it won't start.

But while you were at it, every bearing from the main bearings on the crankshaft to the ends of the push rods have been damaged to one degree or another. If the engine ever starts again, run it as is, don't waste a single dollar on it when it stops running as it will never be worth it no mater how much you replace.

I had this problem with my 99 durango (5.9 L engine). I replaced the PCM which helped, but the problem wasn't solved until I installed new spark plugs. Runs like a top now!

We had the same problem with our '98 Aurora. Had It to several repair shops and to 2 G.M. dealers. We were chasing the wind. Changed all sorts of expensive parts not to mention a complete tune up. Would have gotten rid of the car but I didn't want to stick anyone. I decided to change the EGR valve because it had solved mystery problems on other cars. It worked like a charm. I had to take it off 6 months later and clean it as the problem returned. All is well now. The part is expensive about $250.00 but it can be put in in minutes

Same problem with my '98 Aurora. It had a blown intake manifold gasket making it run lean and die at idle. The gasket was expensive to replace (as all Aurora parts are) so I had them glue it instead. Worked like a charm and saved me 400 bucks.

It could be a dirty throttle body. With the age of the vehicle & the fact that that PCV valve draws its venting vacuum thru here you may need to pull the air intake hose, remove the snap ring holding in the screen, then CAREFULLY the screen. Go to a good parts store & buy some throttle body cleaner & a plastic toothbrush. Hold the throttle open (ENGINE NOT RUNNING) spray the throttle plate & bore thengently clean with plastic brush until all carbonived oily reside is gone. Next you could have a bad idle air control valve if it dies while at idle speed I'm assuming that you,ve checked for vacuum leaks. If it happens only when warm while driving or sitting still, then takes a few minutes b4 it restarts it could be a bad ignition module. Hope this helps.

Could be as simple as needing a tuneup with a new set of spark plugs.

if your talking about what fell in side the cylinder ? first bring the cylinder up top do this by hand not to cause damage to cylinder wall or head than take a 3 prong grabber place a well chewed piece of gum on it put it in spark plug hole and spin it slowly around the cylinder . make sure not to open the grabber when in the cylinder dropping the gum

When your car stalls by turning left or right, usually a loose or a glazed belt is suspected. Reason being is that the pump is being put under a load by the power steering piston. Making belt slip because it needs more torque to spin pulley. Also draws more current, so check idle speed and spark plugs.