Car Stalling Problems

Does not matter as it will mix with the fuel either way you do it.

I had a car that did that and in its case it was the ignition module. It would work fine when cold but fail when it got hot. It hasn't stalled since I put on the new ignition module.

yes, their sucking air, 65;

It all really depends on usage and type of transmission. Automatics, when not driven hard I have seen usually last till 150k, manual transmission well into the 200k+ range. That being said, since Ford made the differential gears from sintered steel, they are like glass and you can break one on a hard launch with any transmission of any age.

Most of the time ,it's because engine is catching air .check for a hissing noise. a soapy solution in a spray bottle .while engine is running will find where the leak is .engine sound will change when you find the spot .

Alternater could be bad. You could be out of gas. One of your fuses might be blown. Here's a question to ask yourself,"Do you punch on the gas often?" That could be another thing. It could be for alot of reasons, but you need to find out more and ask a more detailed question.

It depends on how much gas and what you mean by bad. If you have very little fuel in the tank and you mean it is just old gas, then pour in a can of Seafoam or Techron fuel treatment. If you think there is water in the tank and the tank is less than 1/4 full, then pour in a can of a product called Heat. Now fill the tank with at least 5 gallons of fresh gasoline and start the car. Now if the car has over 1/4 tank of bad fuel, then you need to drain the tank. Since few vehicles have a drain fitting on the fuel tank, you'll probably have to siphon the fuel out. Don't even think about sucking on a garden hose to do the job. Gasoline can cause cancer. And if you inhale a mouthful into your lungs, it can easily kill you. Purchase an inexpensive hand pump and pump as much as possible out. At this point you can remove the tank and fully drain it or pour in the fuel treatment and Heat and then some fresh fuel. Depends on how contaminated you think the fuel is. If you decide to remove the tank, keep in mind that fuel hoses can have residual pressure, as well as fuel that can spill out when it is removed. Eliminate pressure by cracking a fuel line loose near the engine or depressing the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail.

My 1998 Park Avenue would not idle. I cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and the cavity it fits into with carb cleaner. Now it works fine. My 1998 Park Avenue would not idle. I cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and the cavity it fits into with carb cleaner. Now it works fine.

Simple wear and tear. After a certain amount of usage, (which varies with each vehicle) the motor simply stops working. Simple wear and tear. After a certain amount of usage, (which varies with each vehicle) the motor simply stops working.

I would check the point gap and timing first. If that does not correct it, I would check the carburetor float level.

Have a similar problem with my forester 1999.

Explorer has an emergency shut off switch for the electric fuel pump which may cut the fuel supply.It is triggered in a collision. The switch is located at the foot of the front passenger seat. Explorer has an emergency shut off switch for the electric fuel pump which may cut the fuel supply.It is triggered in a collision. The switch is located at the foot of the front passenger seat.

The fuel system is blocked.Clean up the injectors.

1. Your car may have had previous frame and/or unibody damage. 2. Did you have a 2-wheel or 4-wheel alignment done? If it was only a 2-wheel alignment, the rear axle(s) may not have been properly aligned with the front ones, so that your vehicle may "dog-track" with rear end swaying to one side or the other after you hit bumps or uneven road. 3. Your front or rear shock absorbers may be worn out. 4. Make sure that the new tires are the correct size as recommended by the manufacturer of your car.

Separate ignition coils for each cylinder. Commonly known as direct ignition.

Still having the problem? This happened to my brothers 91 Skylark...He would come off of the highway and when pulling up to a stop sign or signal light, it would stall...Putting it in park it would start right up again...Then into drive and it would stall unless he gave it lots of gas then sometimes it would go without stalling...Turned out to be a solenoid in the transmission (I believe it was called the torque converter lock solenoid or something like that)...$200 at the local Chev dealer fixed it... The service manager knew exactly what it was when we called and described the symptoms... You may want to change the transmission oil and filter first. It worked fine in my case.

Oil in the distributor.

Look for a vacuum leak.

Depending on the transmission type, the neutral safety could be located in several places on the transmission. If the switch is bad, the Rodeo could either start in any gear, or not start at all.

Dirty fuel filter

check your spark plugs and wires. if they are all firing correctly and are in good condition, check your injectors and fuel pump/filter. if it's only during acceleration, it's either a fuel delivery problem or ignition problem. I had the same thing like a month ago. Did a complete tune up and it now runs perfectly.You'll notice a difference as soon as you change the plugs.

What do you mean " starts in grabbing"?

There could be a few different reasons why a vehicle would be stalling. Try checking the fuel filter, fuel pump or the injection plug.

There could be multiple reasons for this problem. I would start with the simple one first changing the air filter and using a good fuel injector cleaner (I recommend Lucas) This will also improve your miles per gallon (MPG). The next step would be running a computer scan to verify that your car is properly tunned. A low transmission fluid could also be a factor as it gives your computer incorrect reading. Changing the transmission fluid & filter helped in my case.