Car Stalling Problems

Better start with the basics: is the fuel filter good? does the fuel pump put out the proper pressure? does the carb appear dirty? how about the air filter?

a jet change would not be a normal solution unless there had recently been major changes in the cam and compression ratio.

'Fuel Starvation'.

To test and be sure, accelerate very slowly. if you feel the engine sucking more, that means yous carb is not giving enough fuel.

You can try with a bigger jet (not the idle jet)

pls let us know whatever you find out.

thanks and hope this helps

It sounds like a sending unit/wiring failure. Is the cruze control broken too? The sending unit is on the differential. The best troubleshooting source for 940s is the brickbvoard. Go here for spedo problems. http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm#Speedometer_Failures

try the cam shaft sensor

yes if its faulty its like going into safe mode your engine will not fire drive safe

Likely caused by a bad filter that allows air to circulate in the engine, also could mean you have bad pistons, alternator, converter, or perhaps a misfire in the engine, if not then there could be something else wrong in the engine

Best option is to have your car dianosed

Kenmore model 110.9259600 washer capacity

This problem is in most cars, that is when running the AC on a hot day. There is a solenoid, or a solenoid and a valve to adjust the idle when the AC compressor kicks in so the engine will not die.

My suggestion is check the vacuum hoses, as there is most likely one more more that are cracked or loose causing the problem.

It depends... If you are sitting on the tracks, no. You'd die. If you are waiting in the car away from the tracks, then yes.

turn off all electricals like head light, sterio etc..... trun off ignition completely & try starting the car after 10 seconds

Yes. Bad spark plugs, bad spark plug wires and a bad distributor cap are the common causes of rough idling. If it has been a while since you changed these components, do so.

I would think that almost all diesel systems are near infallible, I didn't look it up but my first look would be at the solenoid on the pump to see if is shorting at low voltage. My second look would be to my fuel pump at the tank or inline. The other place would be to the ignition switch. These are some simple but obvious points to start with. If you are having more problems after these checks , you will need a mechanic. You could have a broken injection head that will allow you to start , accelerate then stall at low rpms.

You may want to look at your alternator as the cause. Good luck Your problem could be the alternator or alternator belt. Check belt first for wear or slippage, then check the alternator. NOTE: DO NOT disconnect the battery while the engine is running to test the alternator. In years past you could get away with this, but with modern cars, more sensitive electronics, etc., disconnecting the load (battery) from the alternator causes voltage spikes which WILL damage electronics and burn out headlights. You can turn a simple ~$100 repair into a major repair, $1000 or more, by doing this. If you don't know how to test an alternator, or if you don't have the proper equipment to do so, have the alternator tested at your local garage. They'll do this for a nominal fee, and will apply it to the repair charge if the alternator is bad and you decide to have them replace it.

your throttle body need to be reajusted. there is a screw on the it take a screw driver and raise the level of rpm 'It's your fuel filter. trust me. it's happened to me before. As you make a sharp turn the clogged sides of the filter won't allow fuel through , then after you straighten out your fuel is taken from the center of the filter which is not as clogged.' [edit search]

FUEL PUMP IS YOUR PROBLEM {why do you think its the fuel pump?}

Check your fuel pressure - it should be 35 to 45 PSI with the key in the on/run position but engine not started , if not then fuel filter, then fuel pump. ( I'm assuming that it does this more than one time ) If it only did this one time, and now it won't run, then it's an electrical or control problem.

Hesitation Definition: When the throttle peddle is pressed the engine fails to respond, and may stall. For this to be true it is idling correct.

No, a failed, stuck or gummed up IAC will not cause the hesitation.

The gummed up may if it has blocked any of the small passages in the throttle body.

It is much more likely you have a bad plug, plug wire, Oxygen sensor, Temp sensor, Bad MAP sensor or other problem.

It could be as simple as a plugged up fuel filter. Try replacing the fuel filter.

Okay, it could be a few things. First thing that comes to mind is it's not getting fuel, so therefore it could be a clogged fuel filter, (usually located just after the fuel tank on the drivers side-cost ~15 $'s) or your fuel pump, (more expensive will have to remove the bed to access).

OR it could be, since your pickup is computerized, that your air sensor is not plugged in, or that you have a clogged air filter, so that the sensor is not getting a good reading.

Personally I have had a Dakota for years, and mine did that a few times. Then it would start again like nothing. Turns out the fuel pump was going out.

The good thing about dodge/Chrysler is that you can check the engine codes your self!! All you do, (and this will tell you if it's the air thing or not...if it's the fuel pump it will likely not throw a code), is put your key in the ignition, turn the key all the way on, (but don't start it), then off, on then off, then on one more time and leave it there. (so do it three times and the third leave it on ON.) Watch the check engine light. Once it goes off, it will flash. Count the # of flashes; 5 is the beginning of a series, and then it will blink whatever codes it may have wrong, then 5 at the end. If it just blinks 5 or 10 times then there are no codes. If it does give you a code, you can look it up online and see what's wrong. (save you the repair place fee of sticking it on a computer)

I would think that when you first start the car, everything works fine...and possibly when you've been running it for a while, that's when your problem starts. If this is the case, there is a valve, near the fuel pump that needs replacing. It can also be a bad fuel pump or fuel filter...and, it might also be some sort of contaminant in the fuel system itself. You might want to run some sort of additive to remove any water from your system. There is a big slide valve next to the start up body, part of the fuel delivery system, but I would wait to check on that. That part is about $200.00 to replace.. You should also check all the vacuum lines. And make sure you have a gas cap on. A simple as that sounds, your car won't run without it. It keeps pressure in the system.

SOUNDS LIKE A LEAN CONDITION CAUSED BY 1 OR MORE FACTORS: (I ASSUME THE FOLLOWING ITEMS ARE UP IN GOOD WORKING ORDER: ENGINE COOLANT IS FRESH AND FULL, THERMOSTAT OPENS AT THE CORRECT FACTORY REQUIRED TEMP, NO MANIFOLD OR HEAD GASKET LEAKS, ENGINE IS NOT BLOWING OIL THROUGH THE VALVE GUIDES, YOUR OVERHEAD VALVE TIMING CHAIN IS NOT STRETCHED OUT OF SPECK, THERE IS NO CORROSION AT ANY OF THE TERMINALS AND SPARK PORTS ON THE DUAL IGNITION COILS, PLUGS AWSF-32C WERE VERY RECENTLY CHANGED AND SET AT .054 GAP, YOUR AIR FILTER IS SQUEAKY CLEAN AND THERE ARE NO LEAKY VACUUM LINES) 1) EGR DUMPING IN TOO MUCH AFTER ENTERING CLOSED LOOP CONTROL. YOU HAVE TO CLEAN WHOLE EGR SYSTEM, CHECK EGR TUBE FOR VAC LEAKS/BREAKS/RUSTOUT, CLEAN THE EGR DUMP VALVE FILTER, CHECK AND/OR REPLACE EGR VALVE. 2) OXYGEN SENSORS BAD. MUST REPLACE BOTH AT SAME TIME. 3) DIRTY MAF SENSOR. BE CAREFUL WHEN CLEANING THE SMALL WIRES. DO NOT TOUCH THEM. ONLY SPRAY WITH DENATURED ALCOHOL OR AN AFTERMARKET ELECTRONIC CLEANER. NO CARB OR THROTTLE BORE CLEANERS AS THEY WILL CHEMICALLY DAMAGE THE COATING ON THE WIRES AND EARN YOU A $200 TRIP TO DEALER/PARTS STORE FOR A NEW SENSOR. 4) THROTTLE AIR BLEED VALVE/SOLENOID IS STICKING OPEN. IT'S ON THE REAR OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. CLEAN WITH WD-40 OR REPLACE WITH NEW UNIT. IF IT IS AN ORIGINAL UNIT TO YOUR CAR, DON'T WASTE TIME CLEANING. JUST GET A NEW ONE AS IT'S WORN OUT. 5) REPLACE PLUG WIRES WITH NEW MOTORCRAFT WIRES. I'M BETTING YOU HAVE 10 YEAR OLD WIRES TOO. HOWEVER: 6) SINCE YOUR QUESTION IS UNCLEAR, IF THE CAR STALLS UPON TIP OFF IDLE ACCELERATION, THEN ALSO CHECK AND REPLACE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. BE SURE TO GET IT PROPERLY ADJUSTED OR YOU WILL SUFFER A RACING IDLE SPEED OR A TOO LOW IDLE SPEED. IF CAR STALLS WHEN IDLING, NEED TO KNOW IF IN OR OUT OF GEAR. IF IN GEAR ONLY, IT MAY BE AN INDICATION OF TRANSMISSION TROUBLES. 7) AFTER ALL SAID IS DONE, CHECK IDLE SPEED EXACTLY AS SPECIFIED IN THE FACTORY MANUAL. IF ALL HAS BEEN DONE RIGHT, YOU WILL DISCOVER THAT YOU WILL PROBABLY NOT HAVE TO TOUCH THE IDLE SPEED SET SCREW. GOOD LUCK. BY THE WAY, I ALSO ASSUME THAT YOU HAVE A GOOD PCV VALVE AND THAT ALL PCV VACUUM LINES ARE CLEAN AND DO NOT LEAK. WATCH FOR THE ONE ON THE REAR OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. IT IS PARTIALLY HIDDEN. THE USUAL CULPRIT THERE IS A 3/8TH ALL RUBBER (SUPERB ENGINEERING TO SAVE A FEW PENNIES OVER A STEEL, BRASS OR COPPER) T-FITTING WHICH BEGINS TO DISINTEGRATE AND LEAK OVER TIME. IT HAS TO BE REPLACED. I USUALLY MAKE A NEW ONE OUT OF BRASS OR NYLON WITH BARBED ENDS. SOME PARTS STORES HAVE READY MADE NYLON T'S WHICH YOU CAN USE WITH NEW VAC HOSE.

I have a 93 Corsica and had this problem. 1. crank sensor 2 ignition modual 3. main brain. Ck codes at a shop. Some will do this for free.

If the check engine light is on...might be a dirty EGR valve.

if cat is plugged an exhaust dont pass through it will stall the engine