Car Stalling Problems

clean the air filter after each use A clogged fuel filter will cause the engine to flood and die because of poor air/fuel mixture (too rich) whereas a clogged fuel filter will cause the engine to die for lack of enough fuel. If cleaning the air filter doesn't seem to help, then the fuel filter would be the most likely suspect.

your speed sensor is failing, the speed sensor is located next to your oil filter it controls your speedometer

The revs jump up because when the clutch is pulled in the engine gets disconnected from the wheels. This means that it no longer has to move the weight of the car and it's driver so the engine gets more gas and floods

I have a 97 Dodge avenger and it was doing the same thing until when I had to change the IAC Valve it cost $100 but its worth it. it is located behind your throttle body.

(Idle Air Control Valve) you can do it on your own, to save $200. or locate the old one remove ti then spra6y it with Carburetor cleaner. Good Luck

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Usually caused by one of two things: Lack of fuel or too much fuel.

If your car stalls when it reaches normal operating temperature, you might have a problem with your distributor coil. You could also have an issue with the fuel filter since you ran out of gas recently.

Check for a) a weak spark, b) a weak charging system, or c) a failure of an element of the fuel system.

Vacuum advance, incorrect ignition timing.

A car stalls when the engine receives a sudden massive increase in load (think when you were learning to drive - releasing the clutch too quickly would cause the car to stall by transferring too much friction too quickly from the gearbox to the engine)

If the car only stalls when you are setting out from stationary then better engine/clutch control control is needed, or there is a problem with fuel or clutch. If it is an old car, try putting more choke on when pulling away.

If the car stalls all the time, the general reason is that there is probably either a fuel or an ignition problem causing the engine to cut out. Of course, there could be any number of things wrong with your car if it stalls during normal driving (i.e., not when starting from stationary).

It may need a tune-up.

In general, a failure to run and idle properly.

I have the same problem and was told it is the fuel temperature sensor.

A car will stall when driven through standing water if the ignition system is not watertight. Worn spark plug wires and coil wire, improperly seated spark plug wires, or loose distributor cap are all possibilities.

There is a spray called CRC or some agent that promotes a water drying action can be used to dry out a wet distributor cap and wires. Drying off the electrical components will remove the moisture that is grounding the electrical energy that should normally go directly to the spark plugs.

If car will not restart after stalling from the water splashing as described in the question - and the poor condition of the electrical system is ruled out, some water may have passed through the air intake into the engine and perhaps into the cylinder. If this happens have the car towed to a repair shop where they can remove the water before any further damage results. This condition is not easy to occur but a real deep puddle can set the stage for water to be sucked into the air intake and pass through the filter into the intake and through the valves into the cylinders. This is why you see a Hummer with a snorkel - for wading through deep water.

out of gas?????????? their could be several reasons from a bad sensor to a bad fuel filter take it to your mechanic he sould be able to help you

A vacuum leak could cause that. The year, make and engine info would help us help you.

Is it at the end of the top radiator hose at the engine?

There are none. The car is a four cylinder and has 2 ignition coils on the top of the engine. One coil sparks two cylinders. Follow your plug wires on the top of the engine. Igition caoils go for about $125.00 each.

You can't find it because it does not have a carburetor. All 1998 Toyota's are Fuel Injected. All Corollas sold in the U.S. since 1993 have been Fuel Injected.

You need to replace the Idle air control valve (IAC). Same thing happened on my 1998 Expedition. It was about a 45.00 fix. Component was located at the rear of the intake manifold.

Hard to say. If you have lost two gears, there are serious transmission problems and it is only going to get worse. I've driven my car for about a year at 55mph, 30 miles a day, 5 days a week and once in a while for store trips.

Check your timing belt , and your fuel pump inertia switch ! Good Luck !

Possible loose exhaust pipe, check hanger clamps.

One of two things.

1. Crank shaft position sensor.

2. Fuel pump and /or sending unit (both inside the tank).

ther are more than that iam afraid ,i had the same problem ,and still do acually .i changed the fuel pump,crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer.and it still did it. first of have the fuel pump tested for pressure before replacing it .and if its the crankshaft sensor ,on my 95 you have to remove the harmonic balancer to get at it ,also there ae a few things that tell the fuel pump to shut off .so if your service the engin light is comming on just before it happens the get the code reader and find out what it says before you start replacing exspecive parts.check the relay for the fuel pump to see that its not getting hot and shutting down .when the car dies and dosent start make sure its because of not getting fuel or is it elec.just spray some starting fuel in the throttle body and if it runs a little then you know its fuel prob.and now you can work on why its shutting down the fuel pump.fuel pump relay is under the back seat on the 95 ,not sure where yours is .but eliminate as much guess work as possible first .

hello, its simple, im the only one with a 93 so far but back by the firewall there is a wire mines blue it goes into a looks like a fuse holder that's connected with two tiwan puzzle clips bypass that if you already disassembelled it get new clips dealer junk yard the other end goes into mine the speedometer connection so in the middle looks like a fuse is connected with a fuse connecter a wire single blue that goes into mine a speedomator port that's down back in middle of engine the other end goes who cares not important i just kept turning pushing securing that line so it didnt bounce or move around sensitive part in a bad location .ties .02 cents work tape temparaly when you take clips apart one connects to nothing just keeps a tighter snug fit. and also make sure your battery is charged.that will be 200.00 plus tax and storage fee and your tire needed air with balancing its only 409.80 i accept cash .

---->IMPROVED ANSWER: 1st after you get the no start check to see if #1 are you getting spark. Just unplug any spark plug wire from coil and have assistant crank the engine-use insulated pliars-don't shock yourself. Also remove gas cap-listen for whirring sound from gas tank. Don't change any parts till you perform this test !!!

Then see other posts farther down to decide if you have a fuel problem or spark problem.

I'm in the same position with a '93 century, had the same problem with my old '89 olds cutlass with the 3.3 or 3300 motor. the best I can tell so far is that one of the parts previously replaced is bad (you can get the ignition modular checked at O'Reillys or simillar) or there is a short somewhere in the wiring - posibly the fuel pump or ignition systems. Sorry that's where I'm at.

Possible weak fuel pump. The fuel pump will pump fuel to the engine, and if the engine's demands are greater than what the fuel pump can deliver, the motor will stall. Let it sit for a few seconds and the pressure builds back up. Turn the key, same cycle happens. The fuel pump needs to keep a certain pressure to the injectors. have a pressure test done to see if you have a fuel pressure problem.

i think that engines stall because of the lack of fuel. pretend the engine was on idle, it is using a small amount of fuel and that fuel is going though a cavity that directs the fuel to the cylinder. when you suddenly increase the throttle, there is more air making the fuel burn faster. but for a split second, the same amount of fuel is moving through the cavity. the engine quickly burns that fuel up and for a little bit there is no fuel, until the flow of fuel catches up. but sometimes the amount of time that there is little or no fuel is too long and the engine dies.

You may have a short circuit causing the open circuit (Fuse blown) Also, check to make sure the fuse is the correct amperage. check to make sure the ignition coil is for your vehicle not a newer model or older model. The spark plugs put into the car are the ones recommended for the vehicle. IF not then switch them back to the regular platinum tip, single pole. Must get your vehicle checked by a electrical tech to pinpoint the problem.

Open the rear hatch and look behind the panels on the left, or maybe the right.