Car Stalling Problems

This could be caused by many different things. Have you done the basic tune-up items? Mostly cause would be EGR valve. The EGR system doesn't come into play until the engine is warmed up. Other problems include vacuum leaks, bad IAC motor or loose distributor internal mounting points.

Does it have a carburetor or fuel injection? If a carb and you give it throttle real slow does it still die? If not look at the accelerator pump in the carb.

Another possibility is the catalytic converter may be plugged. Easy check is get a vacuum gauge. and "T" it in to a vacuum line n the engine that pulls vacuum whenever the engine is running. slowly throttle up, and if the gauge jumps up then slowly drops off to nothing at the same time the engine slows down and dies .the engine is choked and you have a restriction in the exhaust

Have you checked the ignition system out? Sometimes bad ignition components can cause this problem. Change the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotary button. Also, check the carburetor's acceleration pump for operation. With the engine off, remove the air cleaner and look down the carburetor barrel. Quickly move the throttle lever from closed to fully open (or have a helper quickly push the accelerator pedal to the floor a few times). If the acceleration pump is working, you should see a stream of gas spray into the carburetor barrel.

Lets also not forget to check the fuel filter for clogs, and or dirty fuel, rule of thumb is to replace the fuel filter at 30-40,000 mile intervals, also is this vehicle carbureted or fuel injected, if injected its possible you have a bad fuel pressure relief valve problem(low rail pressure to the injectors) follow manufacturers repair/diagnostic procedures. Also if this happens only after the car is driven and warmed up a while, it is possible to have a clogged catalytic converter, consult a certified tech for testing procedures if you are not familiar with this diagnostic procedure.

Be certain you have a good gas cap on the tank as a poor /clogged gas cap vent can sometimes cause stalling on acceleration.

the iac valve (idle air control) is located on top of the intake manifold ,right before the throttle body.

It tells the computer the temperature of the engine. That info is used for fuel and timing control, for activating the radiator fan, the gauges in the dash, etc

Not likely. This sounds like a transmission about to fully fail. You have this listed as a stalling problem. Does the vehicle stall as well? If it is an early 90's to early 2000's Chrysler product, then the transmission is almost certainly the problem. there are other vehicles that have transmission problems, but the Chrysler products of that era are particularly likely to lose transmissions. You can pull the transmission dipstick, & see if the fluid is discolored or smells burned. These checks will not always show up in a failed transmission, but are likely. If you find that it is a failed transmission, do not buy one from a junk yard, you need to replace it with a rebuilt from a reputable dealer. If yours is not too far gone it can be rebuilt, but the problem was with a seal design in most of these, therefore it must be fixed, another factory transmission will only have the same problem. You can ask at your local dealership, if it is a recurring problem transmission, they will know a reputable rebuild shop.

Tap it and if you hear parts rattling around it's shot. A catalytic converter is made up of ceramic plates, if it rattles when hit it's broken up inside. Replace.

it is more than likely the fuel evap system my 97 Chevy blazer studders when accelerating.With a full tank after it gets down past 3/4 of tank runs like a champ.

As strange as it may sound, If your battery is old and getting weak, it can cause that stalling problem with the Dakotas. Your IAC may also need to be cleaned/replaced. Good luck ........

Depending on where the leak is you just replace the vacuum hose or the bad part the hose is attached to.

this is from another quetion I answered but you have the same motor and problem .. so here BACK PRESURE Hi .. I own a 91 buick regal custom and I bought it from my father in law for $1 because of the same problem ... he rebuilt the top half of the engine tring to fix the problem ...when I first started it .. i knew .... you have to keep your foot on the gas and the brake to keep it running at a light .... its the Cat ... cut about one inch into your exsust pipe between the cat and the engine ...and she will never stall ..... its gonna be loud but .. if you have $60 you can put a new one on ....... the cats in buicks overheat and jam up or somthin... but it puts to much back presure on the engine and without having the gas pressed it won't hold idle .... so cut it and yes let it run VERY low on fuel and unscrew the gas cap .. if it doesnt make a presure sound like breathing in .... it needs a new cap too ...

why does it matter if you're driving down a hill? At least it didn't cut off when you were driving up a hill? And I don't know why it would cut off I'm 13.

Yes Citroen C3 has spark plugs and there are four. Spark plugs create a spark in order to ignite the fuel inside the engine's piston chamber. When ignited a pressure is built inside and this drives the piston and so the drive-shaft. For each chamber you need one spark plug and since there are 4, you need four plugs.

Do you mean this? Left coil pack 1----4 right coil pack 7----8 6----5 3----2

I have the same problem with my 2000 Z24. If you are facing the motor, there is a pretty big wiring harnice on the right. If I jiggle it, it will crank back up. I went to the dealer and they charge like $1600 for a new one. If anyone has heard of a recall, please post it.

Stalling. My first inclination is to look for a fuel problem like low fuel pressure but there can be reasons a car would do this. Anyhow, you're basically looking at two reasons an engine will stop running. Either there's no fuel or no fire. In other words, either the engine isn't getting any gasoline (no fuel) or the spark plugs aren't firing. No gas could mean a bad fuel filter or pump. No fire... that's tougher. There could be many causes there. So anyway, that's it in a nut shell. Hope that helps.

possibly the coolant temp. sensor

Possilby EGR valve needs cleaning or replacement. Need computer diagnostic scan to localize issue more. Replace Air Sensor on top rear engine. Top left when facing from front. Reach behind for it. Inexpensive. Easy.

I have a 1991 Buick Park Avenue with a 3.8 V6...

sometimes when I'm driving down the road the car will randomly just die.

It completely shuts off as if I turned the key off, there is no sputtering like a fuel problem or anything like that, sometimes it does it as soon as I start driving and other times it takes 20 or 30 minutes before it acts up. Also, sometimes it will start right back up and other times I have to let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes.

I've already replaced the ignition coil pack, mass airflow sensor, o2 sensor on upper rear of engine, cam sensors and checked all my fluids and had 3 mechanics look over it with no clue why it does this!

the only thing else i can think of is maybe the ignition module under the coil pack?

or maybe the main computer itself?

Please help me out! this has been 2 months of frustration!!!

I have a 1992 Buick Park Ave. 3.8 V6 with the same exact problem. A mechanic told me it was probably a sensor getting hot, because everytime the car shut down on me I'd open the hood for a min. or so and it would start back up. If I didn't open the hood it take a little longer to start. So I'm kinda leaning toward the coil pack or ignition module. but before i replace either i've ran a switch to control my fans rather than wait for them kick on them selves. I also checked the OBD for trouble codes and one came up but was not in the book! 17 was the code. I'm at a loss for words. any body please give some input.

Long story short, spent 2 days on my sisters car ,a 91 Buick Century, that kept telling her she was hot ( the temp light lit off and on and the check engine soon light also and then it would die and 10 min later start again and so on. Turned out the coolant temperature sensor is not so good in these and goes crazy and then shuts down the engine even if its not hot at all. The first time it happened I was with her and the cap for the radiator was not even warm. Ten dollars for the sensor and 15 minutes to get the old out and the new in. It's located on the engine block just look for the 2 wire small screw in sensor. There is another sensor that will shut down the engine but you'll have to ask a parts place because I can't remember what it was.

Got it - cracked Engine Coolant Temp sensor for computer - guess I was tired when I first looked and missed it on the scan tool, (I was sick the day before and stayed home from work) it was showing -1 to 5 degrees when the car had been sitting for 24 hours and intake air temp was 43 degrees. Replaced the sensor and did a tune up, all is great again.

Is it shifting thru the gears, stuck in first gear or not moving at all while in gear? If stuck in first gear only, is the speedometer working? If so it could be the VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR. It is about $20 to $35 and located on the transmission. It controls the shifts and the speedo. If not moving or slipping real bad, check the fluid level and look at the color and smell it for a burnt odor.

The computer is programmed through the rev limiter to cut back on the fuel pressure so you can not go any faster. It is to protect the engine from abuse and to prevent you from being hurt.

I'm not in expert, but it could be ( in winter time) that the car engine is still cold. But if its warm temperature outside, it could have something to do with the gas filter. Its probably blocking from the gas to get to where its supposed to go. It also could be your spark plugs, or wires from the spark plugs. You could check the spark plugs yourself. If the end of the spark plug is dark, like almost black, you need new spark plugs. If you look at the wire from the spark and its worn out, then replace them.

Check the idle, if its fluctuating or falling than nomal. Usually, low idle causes stalling when coming into stops. Low idle, usually is due to dirty throttle, a leak in the vac hose, or a damaged MAF or IAC motor.

It is hidden behind a plastic shield underneath the car, just before the rear, passenger side tire.

Better start with the basics: is the fuel filter good? does the fuel pump put out the proper pressure? does the carb appear dirty? how about the air filter?

a jet change would not be a normal solution unless there had recently been major changes in the cam and compression ratio.

'Fuel Starvation'.

To test and be sure, accelerate very slowly. if you feel the engine sucking more, that means yous carb is not giving enough fuel.

You can try with a bigger jet (not the idle jet)

pls let us know whatever you find out.

thanks and hope this helps