Car Starting Problems

Check the carburetor, fuel pump, spark plugs, distributor.

If you have a remote that locks & unlocks your antitheft system it could be as simple as resetting your remote, I had a similar experience.

need to change ignition switch

For a 4 cyl. egine it is 1342.

The security is keeping it from starting which is what it is supposed to do.

I just went through this on my 1987 s10 blazer. If it's like my pump, there is a connector with two plugs at the tank plus a ground wire. One wire goes to put twelve volts on the pump, the other sends info to the gauge on fuel level. Consult a manual to determine which wire it is, then put twelve volts to the fuel pump power. If it doesn't make a whirring noise, it's probably bad or you have a bad ground. I just started swapping out parts, the fuel pump relay was about 6 bucks and really easy to replace. Try that first. If that's not it, try replacing the oil pressure switch ($5-$35 depending on your car). Just hope that your pump isn't bad, because if it's inside the tank, it's a real pain to drain the tank and drop it. If you end up dropping the tank, just replace everything back there. When compared to a $70 pump, the hoses and wires are cheap so replace them preventitively especially if your car is getting old. Hope this helps!

I believe it has jumped time I just purchased a 95 ram 1500 4x4 for my son it has done the same thing it acts as if were hot or low on oil I checked both but they are good. The truck will start but backfires first which leads me to believe it has jumped time or it may be possible a sensor is malfuntioning. Snap-On tester will let me know. I'll post my findings as soon as I know. If someone finds something sooner please let me know. Have someone check your fuel pump, had a '95 also..truck would run fine, then engine would cut out...let it sit for a while and it would fire up....ended coding check engine for oxygen sensor, put that was caused by the fuel mix....finally had dealership take out and found out it was the fuel pump

a solinoid is nothing but a relay... (it is a coil) when you put potential through it it causes an electromagnetic field causing contacts to change.. the only thing that will cause it to *die* is a broken wire or if the contacts points are burnt..

This is a safety feature.

Somehow you set off the antitheft system. In order to reset it you have to unlock the drivers door with the key.

It could be as simple as a leaking fuel pressure regulator that allows fuel pressure to drop when the engine is turned off, and it's not getting up to pressure when you try to start the engine.

Try this:

Next time the engine sits for a while and you're ready to start it, turn the key on but don't try to start the engine. Leave the key on for about five seconds then turn it off. Repeat the process, THEN try to start the engine.

It might help but then again, if it doesn't you aren't out anything.

use the recoil rope you know, other than that buy a repair manual for that machine. knowledge is cheap when compared to ignorance.

They can fix automotive problems that are beyond your capacity or ability to repair.

cam position sensor has failed

the below is faulty;#2 answer 1:

AZ can not scan any suzuki below 1996 period.

only factory scan tools can do that. $4000 tool + but the OD light means the transmission computer has stored error codes. this puter is called a TCM for the 4speed electronic automatic tranny. http://www.kick-fix.com/Blink.html

this car has 3 ways to blink lights. ECU TCM and brake RWAL controller.

each one has a jumper connection and the manuals in stores do not cover them all. my link shows how to do all of them.

The check engine lamp, just jumper the DLC connector diagnostic request pins. it will blink out an error. (the ECU talks to the tranny TCM) and can set the ECU DTC for the tranny too. DTC = diagnostic trouble code. all you need is a paper clip for a tool , nothing else.

answer 2 (old)

A blinking overdrive light and the check engine light on most likely indicate the transmission range sensor (TRS). For detailed info, have the vehicle scanned at a local auto parts store (AutoZone, etc,) that offers free scans. If you want to retrieve the codes yourself, go to your local public library and check out a repair manusl (Haynes or Chilton) for your vehicle. Detailed instructions on how to retrieve the trouble codes and what each code means are in chapter six.

When the bearings seize on a water pump it is not possible for the engine to turn it so it will not start, replace the water pump and everything should be fine. Dont try run without it or remove the belt so you can limp it home as you will cause severe damage to the engine from overheating.

Sounds like a new ignition switch is needed Sounds like a new ignition switch is needed Sounds like a new ignition switch is needed

Check battery voltage--With engine running it should be 13.8-14.2

Undo the battery terminals and give them a good cleaning with a wire brush, it doesn't take very much corrosion for the side post terminals to stop working.

Its 1 of two things. Bad chip in key, or its the antenna that goes in a circle around the key hole to read the chip in the key. It will get worse and worse until one day it will never start again.

put a multimeter on the starter terminals set to check for voltage. Have someone else turn the key while you hold the meter. Check all your terminals this way, it will tell you where you do and don't have 12 volts. If you can't get it at any of the starter wires chase them back to the next connection point and try again there. eventually you will find where the juice stops at. on the other side of the part if you have 12 volts then your problem will be in that part. Beware this process may take some time. but for the $15 at walmart for the meter and the time. it will save you a couple hundred verses taking it to a shop. And just because you replaced the part already don't mean it was a good part that you put in! I've been through 5 starters from the store on one vehicle before I got a good one!

does the car cranking or not at all when it hot? does the car starts ok when it is in cold?

Fuel pressure regulator or bad injector is allowing the fuel delivery system to loose pressure and drain back to the tank. There's No gas at the injectors for for normal start up.

The clicking noise is most likely relay chatter. If you turn the key and hear a clicking noise and the engine does not crank, this usually a sign of a low battery (or a short). Check the battery first. If the battery is good there may be a short in the electrical system. Start with the ignition switch. Remove the four screws on the bottom of the steering column. Then lift off the top half of the steering column. Inspect the wiring and try to tighten any loose connections. Make sure the pos. & neg. battery leads are in good order (especially the neg. lead.)