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Car Starting Problems
Some of the common car starting problems stem from a discharged battery, a bad fuel pump (or no fuel), a weakened starter motor, or a broken electrical connection. Checking each part will help troubleshoot why the car won’t start.
5,524 Questions
im not sure on location, but to test if this is the problem there are a few ways , at the fuel pump itself check for voltage . also while cranking the vehicle check the fuel pressure.(the second one is a bit technical)
Check your Fuel Filter and Injectors. If that is good check your air intake
Car makes fast ticking sound when key turned?
Battery dying - there isn't enough power left in the battery to turn the motor over during the starting process. Could also be the starter selenoid or the starter motor itself.
A wire that is getting hot could be shorted to ground.
How do you check fuel pump on 1998 dodge ram?
Although there is no definitive way to check it without removing it from the tank, there are a few good indicators that will let you know if it is bad. First, when you turn the ignition to "on" there should be a soft whirring sound coming from the gas tank area (the fuel pump kicking on) which can be easily heard by a friend with his ear near the drivers side back tire. If you can't hear this, then you know that either the pump, electrical connections, or rollover valve is bad. The pump is always on when the vehicle in in run mode and the fuel pressure and volume is regulated further down the line. If you don't hear this noise, you can get your hand up above the tank on these trucks to pull the electrical connection and test the wiring, but it is tough. After you have verified that you have voltage coming to the pump, the only thing left to do is to drop the gas tank and pull the pump.
How do you hot wire a 1992 ford ranger?
I am not sure why you need to know this but, nevertheless... To hotwire any car you need a "slim jim" or something else to unlock the car (if it is locked). Then, here are the rest of the steps. Step one
Locate the ignition tumbler, the spot where you normally put your key. Remove the covers and panels around the tumbler.
Step two
Examine the ignition setup. There should be a panel with five to eight wires clipped to the rear of the tumbler. Remove the panel and try to manually turn the ignition switch using a screwdriver. If you can do this, then you are done! When you turn the ignition switch (usually with a key), it rotates a pin or lever on the back side of the tumbler. The panel is essentially a switch with four positions: off, accessories, full on and ignition. The different positions of the key correspond to each of these positions.
Step two
Research the color coding of the ignition wires for your specific car model. If you are not able to manually turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver, you will have to strip wires to hot-wire the car.
Step three
Locate the "on" positive and negative wires in the steering column. They should run up to the ignition tumbler and be color-coded.
Step four
Pull those wires from the ignition, strip a portion of each and twist them together. The car will now be on and ready for ignition. This is where you truly hot-wire a car. These wires carry a charge, which is why they are called "hot."
Step five
Find the starter wires and pull them from the ignition tumbler as well. Strip the ends and touch these wires together briefly. This should activate the starter, firing up the car. If you have done everything properly, your car will now be running. Do not leave these wires touching each other once the car is running.
Step six
Cover up any exposed wires to avoid painful electric shocks. Drive away and have your ignition repaired or a new key made so you do not have to hot-wire the car regularly.
Courtesy of EHow.com at http://www.ehow.com/how_2044915_hotwire-car.html
Will a bad ignition coil cause a car to sputter?
Ignition misfires and "sputtering" can be caused by any number of system failures such as air/fuel, ignition and even emissions/exhaust. A failing ignition coil, control module, plug wire and plug are often components that should be examined when diagnosing such misfires.
Why would the power steering make noise even after fluid has been added?
- The bigger question is why do you need to add fluid? After you locate and fix that leak, you can address the whine. If it is a Ford, it may be somewhat normal. Like Drazi said, "It may be air trapped in the line." Or the pump may be damaged from running it dry, or there is bilge in the line, starving the pump. Let's assume you have kept up on the maintenance and have flushed the fluid when it was dirty. Let's also assume that the pump is not damaged and you have found and fixed any leaks. Try this: pull the fluid out of the reservior and add one bottle of Lucas brand power steering additive, and top with power steering fluid. I have found this stuff pretty good at resolving many power steering problems. I'm not a big supporter of "Snake Oil", but have had good luck with it.
- If it's a Ford, it's because they use plastic parts in their casings, though most other car companies do the same. If that's not the case, then your pump is receiving too much stress from turning. Try lubing up the chassis and changing the fluid completely. It wouldn't hurt to check your lines either. Sometimes blockage can cause too much stress on the pump too.
- First thing is why are you adding fluid. If it has a leak, then I would address that problem first. A pump will not bleed air out of the system if it is leaking. If everything seems to be okay and your pump still whines, then replace the pump, preferably with a new one from the dealer. The so-called rebuilt pumps that you can buy from places like Autozone, O'Reilly, etc. are cheaply rebuilt, especially if it's a Ford. They don't bleed out air properly, resulting in improper pump pressures. A good pump will bleed out almost immediately, with the turn of the wheel a few times. If it doesn't, then your pump will more than likely never completely bleed out. Buy a new pump from the dealer--it costs more, but if you're like me and don't like the noise, then it's worth it.
- You probably have air trapped in the power steering fluid system. Bleed the air out by revving the engine to about 1500-2000 rpms and turning the steering wheel almost all the way from one side to the other a few times. This should bleed out the air and take care of your problem.
- If the noise is similar to that of a dry bearing, then the problem is probably the power steering pump itself. If the noise you hear has a "click, click, click" to it when you make turns in your vehicle, then the problem is more-than-likely your CV joints. If the noise is screeching, check your belt for wear-and-tear and proper tension (see owner's manual), and the pulleys that the belt turns, including the air conditioning compressor motor and its clutch/pulley.
I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power steering system:
1. Know what type of power steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power steering fluid for each car, i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand of power steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided.
2. Before attaching the power steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid (see owner's manual), and then turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power steering fluid is needed, fill accordingly.
3. Attach the power steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual).
4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering wheel all the way right and left 3-4 times.
5. Turn the vehicle off, and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly.
6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!
Another possibilityHow long has the pump run without fluid? There could be damage inside to the cam and rotor (assuming it's a vane type pump), or to the plates, or it could be cavitating due to the ingress of air -- possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.www.powerbrakeandsteering.co.za
I too experienced very loud whining noise from my 93 Ranger 3.0's power steering pump at idle, and even louder when turning the steering wheel even a little bit in either direction. I changed the fluid but there was no change in noise. I read in a Ranger forum that if you add some STP oil treatment (yes, STP OIL TREATMENT), not the whole can, it would help. I decided to give it a try and sure enough it has reduced the noise greatly. It didn't completely eliminate it but people no longer stare at my vehicle at red lights because of the noisy pump. That was embarrassing! Ford's pump must be partly to blame since the problem is so rampant among all their various models.
By the way, Mercury is supposed to begin being phased out (discontinued) beginning in 2010 and completely gone by 2012. Only Ford and Lincoln will remain. Just thought ya'll might want to know that since your Mercury's value will likely plummet as that kill-off nears. However, those of you who have a stiffy for Mercs may get a good deal on one before they are gone. I personally don't think they are "all that". Fords in general are pretty low market in build and longevity. I used to favor GM but switched to Honda products in the 90s, they are very long-lived. My latest is a Jaguar and I'm quite happy with it. Yes I know they were owned by Ford and now by Tata Motors but the design is all Jag.
How do you change the starter on a 1997 Saturn SC2?
The starter is accessed from the bottom, use jack stands to get the car as high as possible and get under the car. there are two 13mm bolt holding the starter in place, one you can see, the other is around back, use a short 13mm with a 6" extension for the rear.
The signal wire is a 10mm nut, and 12V power is 13mm.
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How do you remove the starter from a 1984 Nissan 300 ZX?
everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)
if I'm thinking correctly its a bracket...
What does it mean when your car starts shaking in second gear?
If the car starts shaking in second gear the motor mounts are probably going bad. Lift the hood of the vehicle and inspect the rubber inserts. If they are cracked and brittle they will need replacement.
have you check spark with a tester or with a plug your plugs might be bad have u try turn the dis. when you try to start it and if the motor is efi you might have flooded it if so remove all plugs and burn gas out of the cylinders BE CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS
Run out of petrol now car wont start could you have an air lock and what do you do to release it?
There should be a bleeder screw on the fuel rail or release the pressure through loosening the fuel input into the throttle body or fuel rail. Caution! When loosened turn on the key and some fuel may spurt out. Retighten fitting and you should be good to go.
Drove through big puddle now car wont start?
Depends on vehicle.First check the air filter to see if it is wet.If it gets wet,it will not let air through the filter and flood the engine. you most likely got the ignition component wet allow to dry for a day or so you should also check the condition of the spark plugs wiring
One car stopped behaving that way when the battery was replaced.
It might be a cooling problem such as the thermostat. I think you should get the cooling system checked. Something is causing it to overheat.
Where is the engine pre heater on the 98 cummins engine?
The intake heater is the square block between the air horn and the intake manifold.
Why does my 98 Chevy 2500 keep stalling then it won't start?
bad ignition switch. had the same problem until I replaced it.
it isn't logical to remove the starter, dissasemble it, and attempt to fix it. if you are going to do that much work....REPLACE IT.
"isn't logicial" what are you nuts!! it takes two little(but long) bolts to take a starter apart and a whole 20 minuets to replace the brushes. why the hell would you pay 100-200 for a "referbished" starter; or god help you 250+ for a brand new one when the brushes cost 10-30$. just make sure it is the brushes and not the drive gear(look for pits in the copper lines) those things tend to get expensive, usually as much as a referbished unit. ~isn't logicial LOL i bet that guy works for the government~ The best place to buy starter/alternator rebuild kit(or individual pieces) are repair shops/electrical stores that deal only with starters and/or alternators
**My starter for my gmc 2500 was only $30 at Auto zone....all shiny
Why does your car battery click but not start?
Batteries don't "click," but other parts do. If you're hearing that "click," it's probably the starter solenoid trying to engage. Either the battery's charge is low, the starter solenoid has failed, or the starter motor itself has failed. On some older cars, especially Fords, the "click" could also be a remote starter relay.
1997 Ford Escort lx cranks but won't start?
You need spark to the spark plugs. You need fuel to the injectors and both need to happen at precisely the right time. Check the first two and if they are OK see if the timing belt is broke.
