Car Starting Problems

go to Nissan dealer and buy new remote and have programmed

well sometimes when you try to start it it starts but shuts off again. sometimes it just doesnt do anything when you turn the key. i thought my ignition swith didnt work on my 98 prelude but i called Honda and told them the problem they told me that it could be just a relay next to the switch so i bought replaced the old one and it turns out that's what it was. you should try that first being that it only cost aroun 60 bucks and the iginition and swithch cost hundreds more.

well sometimes when you try to start it it starts but shuts off again. sometimes it just doesnt do anything when you turn the key. i thought my ignition swith didnt work on my 98 prelude but i called Honda and told them the problem they told me that it could be just a relay next to the switch so i bought replaced the old one and it turns out that's what it was. you should try that first being that it only cost aroun 60 bucks and the iginition and swithch cost hundreds more.

Hello I am having same problem on my daughters car, I am not much of a mechanic. May I ask did you ever find solution

It means that you either have a bad thermostat or bad thermostat wires. You can also check for continuity in the thermostat wires with the thermostat on.

i would say it would be your battery it might need chargeing or you might just need a new one you can take your battery to super cheap or most garages to get tested it only takes a sec to do if you need any more help or info please email j& m mechanical www.varleyjosh@live.com

hi! cold start valve.

On the Nissan NX Coupe the starter is located to the right of the transaxle and to the left of the air cleaner. The air filter will need to be removed as well as the battery to access the starter motor.

fuel filter,pump,pressure regulator? security sensor issue?

The fuel pump may not be working, if the fuel pump relay (if installed), is bad

If the battery was very low on charge give it 8 hours or overnight. 2Amps means it's nearing the end of the charge cycle. It will never go to a zero ampere charge rate as the battery will always accept some current even when fully charged. Don't leave the charger on forever however since the charger will causing excessive gassing of the cells which is breaking down the water in the battery to hydrogen and oxygen gas. Excessive gassing will slowly evaporate the water and cause issues...

What kind of car? Check the solenoid if not on the starter, like Ford. Re-check all the connections and the ground.

have you checked the relay on the starter? and check the wire that runs from the started relay to the starter.

If the 1998 Olds Achieva will not rev over 2500 rpm there may be an issue with the idle control valve. A bad or unplugged valve will not let the car accelerate over 2500 RPM.

For any gasoline engine to start it has to have fuel. Check to see if your getting gas in the carb. You may just need a fuel pump.

You can perform an ohms test but the test is not always conclusive. First check your points, dwell and timing. Make sure your coil is getting a good 12+ volts. Try jumping a positive jumper wire from the battery positive to test. A bad shift interuptor switch can cause a no-spark condition as can a bad tach or shorted harness. Read more at sterndrives.com

Probably a bad ground from the battery to engine/body.

sounds like a fuel or air problem change the fuel filter and air filter first

also could be sensor or wiring fault

P0455 and P0452 have to do with fuel vapor leaks, will not cause a starting problem.

P0340 is a cam sensor code.

You need to diagnose for a failed cam sensor.

The alternator is belt driven and so is the water pump but that is where the correlation ends. There is no way a bad alternator could cause a water pump to go bad unless the alternator pulley was warped. Then there is a small chance.

I bought a 95 S10 Blazer w/ L35 Vortec and put a 92 4.3 Vortec into it. The blocks a mostly the same. the timing cover flange is different then the 92 or 93 vortec. If u use a block older the a 95 then Put a lot of RTV around the bolt holes on the cover-to-block mating surface. The heads are also different. There is one hole, a knock or coolant sensor, in the 94 and older heads. In 95 the Drivers side has 2 sensors, I coolant and 1 knock sonsor. The 94 and older engine had the knock sensor at the back of the head on the block. In 95 the passangers side head didn't have any major changes. The 95 S10 Blazer(compared to the 92 S10 Blazer has different: timing cover w/ crack sensor, distributor with cam sensor (non HEI-style), 2-sensor holes in drivers side head, Slightly different lower and upper intake. Lower intake has a pin that a distrubutor postitioning arm, It keeps the distributor locked into a certain position. and the upper intake has a bigger hole for the IAC valve's plunger. don't use an older IAC valve from an older 4.3 Vortec, There different. If you can us a block out of a 96 and switch everything else to the 96 block. The 96 has reinforcing ribs from the water pump to the lower corner of the block on both sides.

My 95 Blazer runs really nice with the 92 block and rebuilt 95 heads on it. At least until it stalls. The thing warms up and then stalls. I cant find the problem. I have replaces Cap, Rotor, Plug, Wires, Coil pak, Fuel pump, Crank sensor, Both drivers and passengers side Knock sensors, both Coolant sonsors (side drivers head and lower intake sensor). Put a 92 Egr valve on it not the same autozone part#, but it didnt affect the way the engine runs, if anything ran better with the 92 on it( it was cleaner).

Does the battery have enough cold cranking amps? like 800

It could be the cause of the knock only if the gasket was bad and leaked out almost all the oil.

You have to drop the takn and it sounds hard but it really ain't. Unplug the wires going to the tank, put a jack under the tank(Perferablly on two by fours)Undo the straps going under tank. Slowly lower the tank to expose the gas lines. Then unhook gas lines and be careful not to break them unless you are getting a fuel pump from the junk yard then it will more then likely have the old ones on it. After unhooking the gas lines finish lowering the tank set bricks under the two by four at one end and remove your jack. Jack up the driver side of van and pull the tank off the brick which lowers it all the way to the ground. Slide tank out side of van and now you have access to your pump. Turn the clip hoding on the pump and remove it. Make sure when you pull up the pump debris does not fall into the tank. Put new pump in and put clip back on. Slide back under van ondriver side, put two by fours back under each side of tank and slowly start putting bricks under on side to get it high enough to put the jack back under. Jack the tank up puthe lines back on 2/3 of the way up jack it up all the way and put your straps back on. Don't forget to reconnect your wire to your pump.

It could be the starter.. It could be several things. There are shops that will diagnose the problem without charging you. I would call a couple shops and ask if they provide that service. Or they may charge a small fee.

No, not unless the vehicle is designed to shut off when the oil pressure falls below a certain level. Replace the oil pressure sending unit to find out.

If there is an access panel under the seat, then yes. If not, you will have to remove the tank. Take a look and see.