Car Starting Problems

Crawl under the passenger side and you will be able to find it, looks like a coke can with three wires going to it, a easy change out just make sure to remove the battery first, and have a good socket set with some extender's to get to the back uper bolt depending on the year, get a Haynes Manuel it will save you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AFTER I RAN OUT OF FUEL AND I WAS INSTRUCTED TO LEAVE MY IGNITION ON FOR AROUND FIVE MINUTES TO PRIME THE FUEL AND TO MY GREAT PLEASURE IT DID THE TRICK, I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE BUT GIVE IT A SHOT ,HOPE THIS HAS BEEN HELPFUL FOR YOU.GOOD LUCK.

My XJ8 refused to start after switching it off after only running it for a few seconds; I was told the cylinders were flooded with fuel (when the engine is cold more fuel is pumped into the cylinders).

The remedy was to start the engine with the gas pedal flat on the floor (don't 'pump' it); this will stop any further fuel being sent to the cylinders and will also clear them of any excess fuel. When the engine starts just take your foot off the pedal and let it warm up. Hope this helps.

Haynes repair manual, Dodge Neon 2000 thru 2003. Book #30036 This book can answer almost any question and is a must if you work on your own car. Plus it's only $20 alldatadiy.com.....but its $25 imo it's worth it if you plan to keep that car. you get everything a dealer gets, Autozone.com Free

if the car has a new battery and solenoid then I would remove the starter and bench test it. if it bench tests ok then make sure it is not jammed. does the starter click? if not then it may be wires. check and make sure the little solenoid wire is connected as well.

It is relay 18 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Block. Page 6-59 in the owners manual.

Fuse Link @ starter--- Ignition Switch------- Netural Saftey Switch- Bad ignition switch, or bad neutral safety switch.

In my experience if the car will not start and it is a rapid clicking sound when turning the ignition it indicates a dead battery. You'll need to get a jump and wait a few minutes before trying to turn the car on again. If the battery is really dead it will take up to 10 minutes to recharge. Each time you try to turn the car on while it is being recharged it will lose the charge it has obtained and you will have to start over in time for recharging it. If you think your battery should not be dead when it is, you may want to get your alternator checked by taking it into any auto parts store as this will drain your battery prematurely.

If you know for sure that it is not getting fuel or fire, you need to check the ECM fuse. If it is good then check the relay. If you have a professional hook up a scanner then it will tell what is wrong with it. That would be cheaoer than guessing unless you have plenty of money to waste on replacing good parts.

Hi, I had the same problem with my car just after I bought it. It's an older model with a carby. I was told because of the heat of the engine it makes it harder to start the car after it has been driven at normal operating temperature. You shouldn't have trouble jump starting it, or just give it a lot of gas when you are starting it after driving. If you have a carburettor, you have to be one with it. Hope this helps

This requires a set of special cam hold-down tools for holding the cams in place and the cam sprockets while removing the sprocket bolts. The procedure is quite extensive. Take a look here for a detailed walkthrough with pictures. http://www.60degreev6.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=DOHC&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=12&page=1 For stock timing you must use the cam hold-down tools to keep the flats on top of each pair of cams parallel to each other. Done one side, turn the engine 360 degrees, then do the other side, so that the left side cams will have the flats facing up while the right side cams have the flats facing down. Good luck!

A clicking sound when trying to start a car is almost always a low battery. The solinoid which engages with the ring gear isn't getting enough voltage to move it's gear. This causes a fairly rapid and regular clicking sound something like 6 or so per second. Attach a battery charger for 15 minutes or so or get someone to give you a jump. Then consider what the problem with the battery may be before you get stranded.

while i was driving my car shuts off at nite while the lights are on, and i got it started back up and shuts off and comes back on

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If you have a bad alternator it can cause starting problems. More likely because you were driving and not charging the battery, while draining it. The alternator re-charges while you drive. When you turned it off & came back the next day there was not enough juice.

My son's 91 sedan would crank over nicely, but never try to start. We sprayed a short shot of ether into the air intake and it started instantly. This proved that we had ignition, but not getting fuel to any cylinders. A shop tested for the electric pulses to the injectors and saw none. He then disconnected the wireing plug to the one injector that is accessable, and the engine started and ran on 5 cylinders. That one injector was shorted and was killing the pulses to all the rest of the injectors. If the bad one was one of the ones that are buried under the cover, we may never have figured this one out! Jim Harlan, Albuquerque If the above-answer didn't help, check your fuel pressure. You might have a bad fuel pump or pump relay

The starter motor is located between the transmission and the engine which engages the starter clutch with the flywheel, which rotates and starts the engine.

it could be anything from a clogged fuel filter to a blocked fuel pump, or losing spark in the distributor cap. if your PONTIAC has the PASSLOCK security system in it. turn ignition to on position... but do not start... for (10) ten full min. then turn key OFF for (10) ten more FULL mins. then try to start your car. if this works... REPLACE BATTERY IN KEYFOB (keyless entry keychain device) It may sound crazy but it will work.

Without knowing the make and year it's impossible to speculate. Could be a low battery not spinning it over fast enough, a bad ECM, a broken distributor, a failed ignition coil or any number of other things -.

A low or dead battery will have this effect. There is enough juice in the battery to activate the solenoid in the starter (causing the clicking sound), but not enough to turn over the engine. A jump start or a replacement battery may be needed if the battery is no longer capable of holding enough of a charge even when being jumped.

If car still overheats after changing the thermostat the water pump the headgaskets and the radiator what else would cause it to overheat?

From what you describe it sounds like you might have an air lock in your cooling system. I would recommend that you bleed any and all air out of the cooling system. The bleeder valve is located on top of the engine. Once engine starts to overheat or when you can hear bubbling back into the overflow bottle, turn car off and open bleeder valve. If you see bubbling you have air in your system. Bleed the system a couple of times and see if this helps.

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if it still overheats after that like my BMW 318 does you could be looking at a crack in the engine as i think that's my next option

but also check or renew your heater matrix and temp sensors and use a rad leak in your rad even though its a new one as the leak could be in the engine so might seal it

Try taking out the spark plugs first, because turning the crank shaft with the plugs in creates pressure. Or it could be that there is a bent rod and the piston head is in the head wall.

I have a 93 Jeep GC. You can put the window back on track but it will certainly come off again. You need a window regulator/actuator. Ive done a lot of research on the web and it seems that most jeeps are having the same issues with the windows. The part is pretty expensive. Someone told me you can use the rollers offf of a sliding screen door instead

You need to replace the distributor cap and rotor with factory A/C delco parts. That should fix your problem. You may also need to check the COIL wire at the top of the coil. You can check that by spraying water on the coil with a water bottle and see if it starts. If it don't start then REPLACE the coil and coil wire.

I'm not sure why, but I had a 1995 Buick that did the same thing.

I spent all kind of money with several differant mechanics, that never did

fix the problem. I finally traded the car on the day that it was running.

The car seemed as though it was haunted! Sorry I couldn't help.

TRADE THE CAR when it's running.

You have to take off the air intake cover and wires from a sensor located in a elbow like joint for air intake assembly, plus 2 bolts at the top . Unscrew the clamps. Now there are 2 ground connectors/bolts on the front of the starter, remove those too. starter are hanged with 2 bolts, one 18mm at the top and the bottom one is 15mm remove those and free it comes.

George

Jiggle steering wheel, you may have to turn it back and forth pretty hard, also simultaneously move the shift lever if it's on the steering column. Put it in neutral if possible, remember to put your foot on the brake! I don't know if this works for manual transmission cars, Good luck

According to locksmith the pins in the ignition lock wear down because of the weight of the key ring bouncing while driving. Emergency fix is to put a full metal key in the ignition (one without a locking control fob) and tap it with a hammer. I have done it with the fobbed key by using my fist but that hurts. Dealer wants over $100 to fix but locksmith fixed mine for $25 by removing the worn pin.

Locksmith also recommended reducing the number of keys on your car key ring to avoid this problem.

Locksmith said this was a common problem with Chrysler vehicles. My problem was on a Durango.

Bad battery or bad battery connection.

The click is the starter trying to engage, but lacking the power to turn the motor.